Dragonfire

iTrader: (1)

Are the kit diff balls for this chassis carbides?

RedBullFiXX

iTrader: (34)

Something I have found helpful is to make sure the o-ring is flush with the top of the body before you screw the cap on, this way the cap goes on straight every time, and the shock will be air free.

TeamBear

iTrader: (23)

Troy,

They are carbide diff balls, and are 1/8" dia.cheers.

Michael

micrors4guy

iTrader: (50)

Thats the problem im having right now. I guess it will take a little time on how much oil to put in them. Im used to 8th and 10th scale shocks twhere you can bleed them. Dosent seem to work like that with the 12th scale shocks

bfong13

iTrader: (18)

If you look inside the shock body, you'll see a small lip, which the shock o-ring bearing (part #4662) sits on. I usually fill the shock with oil up to that point, perhaps just another drop of oil past it. Then slide 4662 into place and use a paper towel to soak up the little bit of oil that flows over the top of 4662. Then slide the o-ring into place and screw the cap on. This should get you into the ball park of how much oil you need to fill the shock with.

andrewdoherty

iTrader: (49)

What Sean said is correct about new o-rings. I personally don't replace the o-rings. One the black washer has been pressed all the way down to the shoulder I place the o-ring on. With the fingernail on my ring finger holding one side of the o ring down, I use the tip of my thumb on the same hand to press in and down which allows the oil to escape from underneath the o-ring. I might take a couple tries, but you'll know you have enough oil out when the o-ring is flush like redbull said. When you do it like this you don't have to worry about how much oil to put in. Just fill it and everything not needed will spill out.

Dragonfire

iTrader: (1)

Sweet... So I guess I will need two packets of them if I want a minimum of 18 diff balls?

RedBullFiXX

iTrader: (34)

Exactly

andrewdoherty

iTrader: (49)

No need to use expensive balls. If you look on CRC's site a little they explain how to build a diff. Just use the cheap steel balls. Mike dumas sat me down one say and showed me to do it like this and I have been using cheap balls and rings straight from the package ever since and have awesome diffs since then. I believe it is user to preference to use all CRC products as they suggest, but the method is the same regardless.

http://www.teamcrc.com/crc/modules.p...article&sid=36

Dragonfire

iTrader: (1)

This is what I do now as it cost me a very small amount of $$$ to replace the diff balls. How ever I have been racing for a number of years now and quality diff balls offer far more performance than even brand new steel balls. I have always found that AE diff components are second to none so these will do me fine. How many in a packet of replacement balls?

Arn0

Hi Guys,
Just to let you know I'm selling my RC gear: a RC12R5 roller ready to race

andrewdoherty

iTrader: (49)

It's about 10-15 dollars for 100 balls.

darrenoakley

First race with the 12r5 last night. What a great class to race in. I was only running 17.5 with the Tekin RS but found only on the straight there was a difference and then not a lot. Used Jaco lilac front and Yellow rear for first 2 heats then switched to purple/orange for last two. with a roll out off about 88mmpr.
Great fun,cant wait till next week.

kjoer

Hi,


I've raced electric off-road from 1988 to 1999, had an eleven year break from RC and I'm now getting into 12th scale. I went to a local club and recently ordered some stuff :). I went for a Team Associated 12R5.1.

• Team Associated #4019 RC12R5.1 Factory Team
• Protoform #1611-21 AMR-12 Light Weight Clear Body
  
• LRP #50682 Vector X12 Brushless Modified - 5.5t
• LRP #80905 SXX Competition Version 2 Brushless ESC
• Ko Propo #30048 PDS-951ICS ICS 6.0V Digital FET Servo
• MYLAPS RC4 Hybrid Transponder
  
• 4x LRP #79877 LiPo Competition Car Line 1S Hardcase 5400 - 50C - 3.7V
  
• Ko Propo #80400 EX-10 Eurus 2.4GHz SS (Tx/Rx with setting module)
• Graupner #6444 ULTRA DUO PLUS 50

So, I'm totally green when it comes to 1:12 and current technologies. I built the car, which was fun, apart from sanding/glueing/sanding CF parts. That takes about as much time as actually building the car, if not more :).

However during building I noticed some things, I've got some questions:


- The pivot brace is under an angle when adjusting it for for free lower rear pod plate movement.One side is sitting to the front, while the other is sitting to the rear. I guess this is normal/intended.

- One of the holes in the left & right rear pod links binds slightly without even having inserted a M2 screw. Its not bad, but its not optimal either. It seems to be mold related, since its the same hole that slightly binds for both links. What is usually done to fix this? Polish the ball? This would remove the coating, wouldn't it? Enlarge the hole somehow?

- The pivot balls in the lower front suspension arms bind very badly, they don't move freely at all. Is this normal? Should I fix it somehow? Polish the ball? Enlarge the hole somehow?

- With default settings, the pod is sitting upwards. With the wheels from the ground, shouldn't the rear pod rest downwards (some droop), so one could adjust the center shock preload to make the pod aligned to the chassis under static load (car resting on its wheels with full mass)? I used the (default) center shock droop spacer. The center shock aluminum rod end is all the way onto the shaft. Shouldn't it be? Should I unscrew the ball cup a few millimeters? As of now I've unscrewed it 2mm. Or shorten the droop spacer in the shock? How much droop should I aim for?

- Which Ackermann servo spacers should I use by default? ( Ko Propo #30048 PDS-951ICS ICS 6.0V Digital FET Servo ). At the moment I used one thick spacer per side. In a top view with steering centered, the turnbuckles are sitting colinear.

- How am I supposed to use the tiny receiver antenna with the solid antenna mast? Use shrink wrap around the mast with the antenna inside?

- Do people position LiPo's to the front or rear? My assumption with LiPo's being lighter than sub-C cells, people would move LiPo's to the front to retain some front end weight. However, pics from the recent worlds show this:

Marc Rheinard: LiPo to the front
Ronald Völker: LiPo to the back
Juho Levanen: LiPo to the front, the ESC is turned 90 degrees to make room for the LiPo

Don't know if the pics were I got this info from were taken during similar track conditions. Or maybe it just comes down to driver preference. I guess I'll install electronics in a way so I can strap the LiPo either to the front or rear (or somewhere in between). Is it true positioning the LiPo to the back actually gives more steering? Is moving it to the front used to reduce grip rolls?

- Just have to install electronics now. I must say, its pretty tempting to trim all receiver channel wires to custom length as well. Not sure if that would void the warranty of the ESC/servo/transponder. Its a bit of a handfull to fit the standard length receiver wires into the car, it doesn't look very tidy either.

- Oh, how many guys replace some of the not-so-stressed steel screws with blue anodized aluminum/titanium ones? Seems a bit iffy to me, but i guess its doable for some screws. On the other hand, better to snap a screw than rip a chassis plate on heavy impact.


Thanks in advance to anyone taking the effort to answer these questions!


edit: picture 1, picture 2

kjoer

Hmm I just did a marathon read through the first 80 pages of this thread, a few of my questions have been answered in that. Other stuff also looks pretty recognisable. In addition to the above post:

- The kingpins slightly bind in the lower suspension arms balls as well. As of now however, they're not dampened yet with high viscosity 1/8th scale diff fluid/kingpin lube. Ordered it, still has to arrive. I may give this some attention when I rebuild the front. Polish them maybe.

- The servo saver is slightly offset from the center line (Ko Propo #30048 PDS-951ICS ICS 6.0V Digital FET Servo). This first became apparent when I was doing the initial setup, I had to use different turnbuckle lengths for neutral toe, with the servo saver sitting straight up. Having read through half this thread it came by. Still have to find a way to accurately measure it, probably from the bottom. So, I'm supposed to fix this by slotting the servo mounting holes in the chassis? Not the easiest of machining by hand I'm afraid :).

- During assembly I also noticed the outer right hub ball bearing has to transfer the axial diff load force, how many guys changed this setup to use an actual thrust bearing? If needed at all, the design should work as it is, shouldn't it?

- I still have to check tweak. No clue yet how to properly do this, though to be honest I haven't really looked it up yet either. I guess there are plenty of topics of this around. I doubt its far off, considering how electronics are placed.

- In relation to the above, its hard to check if the preload of both side springs is the same. The retainer being made from plastic doesn't seem to help, it doesn't seem very consistent/accurate.

I've driven the car for the first time last thursday, at the local track. First time I drove any RC car since 11 years, was fun. First run I probably had way too much steering travel, inner wheel probably hooked. I reduced it to 67%, I might dial it to 80% next week. (100% being the wheel being 3mm off the lower suspension arm/2mm off the steering turnbuckle ball joint). Also, the track being rather small with alot of 180 degree turns, people adviced me to use drag brake, which I'm not really keen on using to be honest. It would be an easy way to consistantly brake for the tight turns. However, In my opinion, on larger tracks, one would like to be able to roll the car through high speed sweeping sections, brake manually for tight turns, am I right? I think I'd rather learn to drive "the right way" so it won't bite me back in the ass if I'll try and do some races elsewhere. I still have to replace the default ESC wires with some black 13AWG TQ ones or so. I had the impression the ones displayed were preventing the pod from moving freely, causing the car to snap to the right under acceleration at times. I think they hit the body. I also need to get a 150mm sensor cable. Apart from that, so far though, building went fine, the car ran great :). I just looked up the Jaco site, just ordered the fronts and rears in the middle of the lists (lilac front/gray rear). I soaked the rears, the inner half of the fronts. Didn't really hit anything hard, but for convenience, I might buy a second kit for spare parts.