7LikesHot Bodies TCXX
10-28-2012, 07:22 PM
#391
Tech Initiate
Noob question here. What is the benefit/effect of cutting 5mm off the end of the sway bars? I'm currently building my TCXX and I'd rather not do this unless it's needed.
10-28-2012, 07:57 PM
#393
Tech Initiate
Thanks Craig. One more question. I see 3 different "copper" 1.2 mm sway bars in the kit, 2 shorter ones and 1 longer one. Which ones should I use?
10-28-2012, 09:26 PM
#394
10-29-2012, 12:51 AM
#395
Tech Regular
The kit setup is to run a narrow bar at the front and a wide one at the rear. Off the top of my head I think it's a silver front and wide copper rear.
Also don't forget to run the wide rear bar you need to screw a ball stud into the front of the rear arm in one of the shock mount holes.
10-29-2012, 09:14 PM
#396
Tech Initiate
HB provide you with enough bars to cover any scenario, narrow only fit the front but you can use narrow or wide in the rear.
The kit setup is to run a narrow bar at the front and a wide one at the rear. Off the top of my head I think it's a silver front and wide copper rear.
Also don't forget to run the wide rear bar you need to screw a ball stud into the front of the rear arm in one of the shock mount holes.
The kit setup is to run a narrow bar at the front and a wide one at the rear. Off the top of my head I think it's a silver front and wide copper rear.
Also don't forget to run the wide rear bar you need to screw a ball stud into the front of the rear arm in one of the shock mount holes.
What is the difference between using the wider or the narrower bar in the rear? Is there a difference in terms of performance or ease of driving?
Also, as far as screwing a ball stud into the rear arm for the wider bar. The manual doesn't specify this, nor does it specify what length of sway bar to use at all. It only refers to the thickness of the bars. The build in the manual calls for 1.4 mm black in front and 1.2 copper in rear, but the standard set-up in the back of the manual calls for 1.2 front and rear, with no mention of wide or narrow in the back. So tbh, I'm a little confused. Any guidance would be appreciated.
Last edited by Yukie; 10-29-2012 at 09:32 PM.
10-30-2012, 02:10 AM
#397
Tech Regular
Build manual page 21 step f-04 right hand side of the diagram shows the ball studs being installed into the wishbone and the wide roll bar being used.
I know in testing last year the team felt the car was more stable with a wider roll bar in the rear.
I've only run the wide one on my TCXX but the car is more stable than my TCX which only had the narrow roll bars.
I'd suggest starting with wide and only use narrow if you need to loosen up the rear to gain steering.
I know in testing last year the team felt the car was more stable with a wider roll bar in the rear.
I've only run the wide one on my TCXX but the car is more stable than my TCX which only had the narrow roll bars.
I'd suggest starting with wide and only use narrow if you need to loosen up the rear to gain steering.
10-30-2012, 02:16 AM
#398
Tech Initiate
Build manual page 21 step f-04 right hand side of the diagram shows the ball studs being installed into the wishbone and the wide roll bar being used.
I know in testing last year the team felt the car was more stable with a wider roll bar in the rear.
I've only run the wide one on my TCXX but the car is more stable than my TCX which only had the narrow roll bars.
I'd suggest starting with wide and only use narrow if you need to loosen up the rear to gain steering.
I know in testing last year the team felt the car was more stable with a wider roll bar in the rear.
I've only run the wide one on my TCXX but the car is more stable than my TCX which only had the narrow roll bars.
I'd suggest starting with wide and only use narrow if you need to loosen up the rear to gain steering.
10-30-2012, 11:32 PM
#399
If the new axle and diff drive cups on the XX are smaller. Most of the older cyclone, cylcone TC, and TCX axles cant be used?
So if in the future, racers decide to run dual HB gear diffs, the HB 44mm DCJ cannot be used with the smaller drive cups of the new HB gear diff for the front.
Someone correct me if im wrong
So if in the future, racers decide to run dual HB gear diffs, the HB 44mm DCJ cannot be used with the smaller drive cups of the new HB gear diff for the front.
Someone correct me if im wrong
10-31-2012, 01:39 AM
#400
Tech Regular
10-31-2012, 01:48 AM
#401
If the new axle and diff drive cups on the XX are smaller. Most of the older cyclone, cylcone TC, and TCX axles cant be used?
So if in the future, racers decide to run dual HB gear diffs, the HB 44mm DCJ cannot be used with the smaller drive cups of the new HB gear diff for the front.
Someone correct me if im wrong
So if in the future, racers decide to run dual HB gear diffs, the HB 44mm DCJ cannot be used with the smaller drive cups of the new HB gear diff for the front.
Someone correct me if im wrong
For front, the new cups optional # 68289 that do not need blade, only work with the new axle shafts, but I think a good tool(file) might be helpful to use the old drive shafts...
10-31-2012, 01:52 AM
#402
So the rear and front axles have different pin sizes, thats not really smart. The part number you gave me is for the thinner non DCJ axles being used for the front geardiff. The HB 44mm DCJ pins are bigger than that? Are you saying the Stock rear gear diff can be used with all older axles?
Can I get "two HB gear diffs" and run the setup I want ( HB gear diff front w/ HB DCJ and HB gear diff rear w/ pro4 44mm steel axles) with blades and no fitment issues?
10-31-2012, 02:00 AM
#403
The cups on new gear diff XX are the same of the old diff (ball or Spec.R) change the blade for new axle(have small pin), the axle shafts are interchangeable, it only needs the right blade.
For front, the new cups optional # 68289 that do not need blade, only work with the new axle shafts, but I think a good tool(file) might be helpful to use the old drive shafts...
For front, the new cups optional # 68289 that do not need blade, only work with the new axle shafts, but I think a good tool(file) might be helpful to use the old drive shafts...
Also are spares out yet to purchase online or at a local hobby shop yet in the USA?
10-31-2012, 05:15 AM
#404
Tech Regular
Sorry, had my head on sideways earlier lol.
Yeah the "old" blade will make that work and that option part is for the new front alu shaft.
Yeah the "old" blade will make that work and that option part is for the new front alu shaft.
10-31-2012, 07:56 AM
#405
Tech Rookie
Oddly enough I have been shimming my motor our 2mm on occasion when I wanted my car to roll more to give me more grip. I also take the shims out for when I race in high bite conditions. As the TCX motor mount is an option and fits on the TCXX I would say that most conditions would favor the need for more roll (more grip). For those of us fortunate enough to race in high bite conditions regularly, a motor mount change is a tuning option available to us.
No big deal really...at least to me it isn't.
No big deal really...at least to me it isn't.
Hey I need to move my motor out on my TCX. I thought about shims, but then thought I might need a special big shim so the motor retains full contact with the motor mount so it would still dissipate heat as good as stock setup. What shims are you using please?