Hot Bodies TCX
#2162
Tech Elite
iTrader: (102)
Join Date: Dec 2004
Location: Far away from Covid19 but close to 20
Posts: 4,129
Trader Rating: 102 (100%+)
SRW141
Hey Steve.
are you running the HB?
been a while...hopefully you make it up Horsham soon.
Quick question
How does everyone like the servo saver that comes with the kit?
Not sure if I should change it out.
are you running the HB?
been a while...hopefully you make it up Horsham soon.
Quick question
How does everyone like the servo saver that comes with the kit?
Not sure if I should change it out.
Last edited by olhipster1; 02-18-2011 at 06:17 PM.
#2163
works fine for me.. got a Kimborough and it just looks like its the same servo saver.
#2164
Tech Adept
Topdeck screws
Hey,
Has anyone had trouble with the topdeck screws tightening after a few runs, sometimes they're almost impossible to get out!!
any ideas on solving this problem, perhaps grease or countersunk washers??
Has anyone had trouble with the topdeck screws tightening after a few runs, sometimes they're almost impossible to get out!!
any ideas on solving this problem, perhaps grease or countersunk washers??
#2165
Tech Regular
iTrader: (10)
I'm using Alloy screws which solves the problem completely! I know what you mean though, i had the same problem. Titanium would probably be fine too!
Hope this helps!
Ryan.
#2166
Tech Champion
iTrader: (30)
The kit one isn't the best, it has a strong spring, but it is short also, which causes it not to get good strong leverage on the steering rack. I went with a Tamiya Servo Saver, but using a 3 Racing Purple 18mm Alloy Horn, gives more leverage and is a great, strong servo saver!
Hope this helps!
Ryan.
Hope this helps!
Ryan.
#2167
Tech Elite
iTrader: (67)
#2169
Tech Regular
iTrader: (10)
Thanks RAL, That one is actually the smaller version of the one i use.
I use http://os.3racing.hk/products.php?products_key=4114
Which is 1,5mm taller, fits perfectly. Nothing wrong with that one, but i find the 18mm one to work better
Ryan.
I use http://os.3racing.hk/products.php?products_key=4114
Which is 1,5mm taller, fits perfectly. Nothing wrong with that one, but i find the 18mm one to work better
Ryan.
#2170
Tech Champion
iTrader: (30)
Thanks RAL, That one is actually the smaller version of the one i use.
I use http://os.3racing.hk/products.php?products_key=4114
Which is 1,5mm taller, fits perfectly. Nothing wrong with that one, but i find the 18mm one to work better
Ryan.
I use http://os.3racing.hk/products.php?products_key=4114
Which is 1,5mm taller, fits perfectly. Nothing wrong with that one, but i find the 18mm one to work better
Ryan.
#2173
Tech Champion
iTrader: (30)
alot of guys have swapped them out to get rid of some of the slack/slop in the suspension - not because of strength....I'm using Losi Type-R ends, opened up a little with an a hobby knife to allow the turnbuckle to start threading in...
as far as them not being straight - that's all on the assembler, man you need to pay attention and adjust as you build them because if a metal threaded rod (for all purposes) going into soft plastic - too much 'force' one way or the other will throw the rod off its straight course
#2174
Tech Elite
iTrader: (77)
i've used the same ones on all my cyclones and they are anything but weak - especially the grey HPI ones that come in the kit...
alot of guys have swapped them out to get rid of some of the slack/slop in the suspension - not because of strength....I'm using Losi Type-R ends, opened up a little with an a hobby knife to allow the turnbuckle to start threading in...
as far as them not being straight - that's all on the assembler, man you need to pay attention and adjust as you build them because if a metal threaded rod (for all purposes) going into soft plastic - too much 'force' one way or the other will throw the rod off its straight course
alot of guys have swapped them out to get rid of some of the slack/slop in the suspension - not because of strength....I'm using Losi Type-R ends, opened up a little with an a hobby knife to allow the turnbuckle to start threading in...
as far as them not being straight - that's all on the assembler, man you need to pay attention and adjust as you build them because if a metal threaded rod (for all purposes) going into soft plastic - too much 'force' one way or the other will throw the rod off its straight course
#2175
Tech Adept
Different front axles and front arms seem like a good idea for durability, but was hoping someone could point me to a setup sheet and/or any other helpful swaps for a good build. Went through the last 50 pages in this thread and didn't see a good listing.