16LikesSerpent S411
01-04-2012, 07:24 AM
#2386
Hello Martin!
It is a pleasure if not an honor answering you. Congrats for the app, really important tool!!!
About S411, i did a little test about DJC and what i felt is just the same you wrote. Can't declare best lap times with them but the feeling is that the car is more consistent entering corners and mid corsers. I don't like use DJC when there is too much grip on carpet because front end become difficult to drive.
But, I can add that i've tried them with front diff on carpet and they are better than standard univ even if grip is hight.
Bye!
It is a pleasure if not an honor answering you. Congrats for the app, really important tool!!!
About S411, i did a little test about DJC and what i felt is just the same you wrote. Can't declare best lap times with them but the feeling is that the car is more consistent entering corners and mid corsers. I don't like use DJC when there is too much grip on carpet because front end become difficult to drive.
But, I can add that i've tried them with front diff on carpet and they are better than standard univ even if grip is hight.
Bye!
I will have to do some more testing to see what I like the most. I do like the smoother feeling the djc gives me. Cheers.
01-04-2012, 03:34 PM
#2387
As mentioned earlier in the thread I got some BD5 dcj from spec r because I line the design of the way the pins are secured if you do get some and you want to keep the same bearings there are a few things you need to do
1. Get 2 .1mm shims to slide down the shaft so it creates a shoulder so the inner bearing does not come out.the ones you use to shim nitro clutch bells
2. The 2 bearings that come with them pull them apart the inner race is the perfect spacer to make it 6 mm as the standard are stepped
3. Put it together you may need to trim the end of the shaft it protrudes out a bit to much.
My thoughts they seem okay they are half the price almost and fit very good if I had my choice again would I get them maybe but I can not compare the 2 I'm sure the serpent ones are very good and no messing about you still need to reem the up rite out a little
1. Get 2 .1mm shims to slide down the shaft so it creates a shoulder so the inner bearing does not come out.the ones you use to shim nitro clutch bells
2. The 2 bearings that come with them pull them apart the inner race is the perfect spacer to make it 6 mm as the standard are stepped
3. Put it together you may need to trim the end of the shaft it protrudes out a bit to much.
My thoughts they seem okay they are half the price almost and fit very good if I had my choice again would I get them maybe but I can not compare the 2 I'm sure the serpent ones are very good and no messing about you still need to reem the up rite out a little
01-05-2012, 11:53 AM
#2390
Tech Master
iTrader: (23)
IMO, DCJ/ECS drive shafts are all but useless. Serpent's original drive shafts are among the smoothest I've had. Change the dross pins for keyed pins and they're just fine, spool diff whatever. I've always had reliability issues with double joint shafts. One DNF kinda kills the .02 advantage for me...Just sayin.
01-05-2012, 12:26 PM
#2391
Guys i bought a second hand 411 the other day, and the previous owner was running the TC6 drive shaft blades, they seem to fit great, BUT with no shock on the arm, as the arm travels upwards the blades bottom out on the outdrive, only allowing the arm to move about 3mm up.
I always run the standard blades on my other car and there are no binding issues at all, if any one else is running TC6 blades have a close look at arm up travel, as it will cause the car to handle like crap, all you need to do is remove the rear shock and move the arm up as a test, hope this helps a few people.
Rhys
I always run the standard blades on my other car and there are no binding issues at all, if any one else is running TC6 blades have a close look at arm up travel, as it will cause the car to handle like crap, all you need to do is remove the rear shock and move the arm up as a test, hope this helps a few people.
Rhys
01-06-2012, 11:30 AM
#2392
Tech Apprentice
I Tried the 3mm Countersink method too get rid off the steering play but this did cause binding issue , did it not do that for anyone else?
For me a 4mm .02 shim was good. Maybe a 3.5 shim would been better , it feelt like the 4X0.2 was a little big and did bind little
For me a 4mm .02 shim was good. Maybe a 3.5 shim would been better , it feelt like the 4X0.2 was a little big and did bind little
01-06-2012, 12:37 PM
#2393
I Tried the 3mm Countersink method too get rid off the steering play but this did cause binding issue , did it not do that for anyone else?
For me a 4mm .02 shim was good. Maybe a 3.5 shim would been better , it feelt like the 4X0.2 was a little big and did bind little
For me a 4mm .02 shim was good. Maybe a 3.5 shim would been better , it feelt like the 4X0.2 was a little big and did bind little
After several versions of various DCJ/ECS, I have gone back to the stock setup as well. With a simple reduction of steering rate any chatter issues on the track are gone. Just took a while to get used to it, but this also helped with a slight oversteer on exit problem I was having in one corner.
I also did a grinding compound break in on my gear diff. I think the grinding compound is slightly too abrasive so either a fine or some sort of polishing paste is probably better to use. BUT I also replaced the big shim behind the larger gears, between the gear and o-ring, the diff is extremely smooth now. Virtually no drag or gear click. You can spin one wheel and it will turn for a couple seconds, even better than a loosened off ball diff. And it doesn't leak too boot.
01-06-2012, 01:06 PM
#2394
Tech Apprentice
01-06-2012, 01:14 PM
#2395
See this for a fix. Page 155, post #2325.
01-06-2012, 01:20 PM
#2396
Tech Apprentice
