80LikesDurango DEX210 Thread
11-08-2013, 12:54 PM
They need to make the RF block in aluminum so we don't need to go get an aftermarket version, and it should be a LRC version, with an included shim to raise it back to the normal height for HRC. This way 1.5 or 3 is 3 degrees, so we don't need to do math and subtract X - Y.. Make it simple. Add shim or remove shim for HRC or LRC in the front.
11-08-2013, 01:02 PM
They need to make the RF block in aluminum so we don't need to go get an aftermarket version, and it should be a LRC version, with an included shim to raise it back to the normal height for HRC. This way 1.5 or 3 is 3 degrees, so we don't need to do math and subtract X - Y.. Make it simple. Add shim or remove shim for HRC or LRC in the front.
11-08-2013, 03:12 PM
They need to make the RF block in aluminum so we don't need to go get an aftermarket version, and it should be a LRC version, with an included shim to raise it back to the normal height for HRC. This way 1.5 or 3 is 3 degrees, so we don't need to do math and subtract X - Y.. Make it simple. Add shim or remove shim for HRC or LRC in the front.
11-08-2013, 03:20 PM
Tech Fanatic
iTrader: (13)
The only problem with this is shims raise the gearbox. Rcjunky1 makes an aluminum hanger that does this. A friend noticed that the gearbox doesn't quite sit flush with the shims. Even running at 1.5, it was slightly higher. The top deck pretty much brings it down but not flush for the OCD folks. Also he wasn't able to get 3/3 when running mm due to clearance.
it uses a shim under the aluminum RF hanger for roll center/anti squat adjustment, and an insert inside the hanger to take up the space between hanger and gearbox.
11-08-2013, 03:27 PM
That chassis may allow for the space. The method isn't bad. I just know it isn't flush in Durango's. Try it. You can probably dremel the gearbox though.
11-08-2013, 03:37 PM
http://www.team-durango.com/in-the-p...rticle_id=4472
Personally I like the feel of the MM4 on high bite clay with the LRC rear end.
Personally I like the feel of the MM4 on high bite clay with the LRC rear end.
http://www.revolution-rc.com/our-pro...ion-mount.html I've also been experimenting with the gear diff and about 5K-7K fluid. I've been running this setup for a while and I'm able to carry quite a bit of speed on the faster turns and I still have great low speed steering.
Hope this helps!
11-08-2013, 03:40 PM
I've also run my MM4 setup at OCRC but I've only had a few runs. It seems pretty dialed although initially I was pushing a bit….will post more next time I go!
11-08-2013, 04:58 PM
They need to make the RF block in aluminum so we don't need to go get an aftermarket version, and it should be a LRC version, with an included shim to raise it back to the normal height for HRC. This way 1.5 or 3 is 3 degrees, so we don't need to do math and subtract X - Y.. Make it simple. Add shim or remove shim for HRC or LRC in the front.
11-08-2013, 06:26 PM
11-08-2013, 09:40 PM
11-08-2013, 09:59 PM
11-08-2013, 11:17 PM
I also hate cab forward….ALL OF THEM ARE UGLY!
11-09-2013, 03:54 AM
What are you guys finding the type b chassis to do better than the stock aluminum? Also where in the world can I find the type b in stock?
11-09-2013, 05:17 AM
if you need the chassis and the parts needed to convert to the Type B, order TDRZ2001 at your LHS. The central warehouse shows in stock, the west warehouse should have them soo, its the type b conversion kit, I think its the 3 parts but once I get mine I'll post here. Theres no info on it and its not on Tower's or Durango's site, so its going to be like christmas end of next week or early the following when it should arrive 
11-09-2013, 12:49 PM
does anyone run on smooth clay? (literally smooth clay)
if so, what is your recommended setup?
also, any pics on how to do the mid motor setup? 210 noob..
if so, what is your recommended setup?
also, any pics on how to do the mid motor setup? 210 noob..