Associated RC12R5
06-15-2011, 11:11 AM
#2866
Softening setup
I just got my 12r5 (used), went through it and ran it for the first time last night. We race on an indoor carpet track, but its a rather bumpy surface (carpet is over a wooden floor).
The car was very good and I ended up TQ first time out. One bad thing about being fast is the bumps affected me more than others. What can be done to soften the set up overall, without changing the handling or balance? I'd just like to reduce the amount the car "skips" around due to the rougher surface.
Almost forgot: I'm running pretty much the stock set up the car comes with. Pink rears, purple fronts. stock springs.
The car was very good and I ended up TQ first time out. One bad thing about being fast is the bumps affected me more than others. What can be done to soften the set up overall, without changing the handling or balance? I'd just like to reduce the amount the car "skips" around due to the rougher surface.
Almost forgot: I'm running pretty much the stock set up the car comes with. Pink rears, purple fronts. stock springs.
Last edited by Qball41; 06-15-2011 at 11:13 AM. Reason: forgot set up info.
06-15-2011, 11:23 AM
#2867
I just got my 12r5 (used), went through it and ran it for the first time last night. We race on an indoor carpet track, but its a rather bumpy surface (carpet is over a wooden floor).
The car was very good and I ended up TQ first time out. One bad thing about being fast is the bumps affected me more than others. What can be done to soften the set up overall, without changing the handling or balance? I'd just like to reduce the amount the car "skips" around due to the rougher surface.
Almost forgot: I'm running pretty much the stock set up the car comes with. Pink rears, purple fronts. stock springs.
The car was very good and I ended up TQ first time out. One bad thing about being fast is the bumps affected me more than others. What can be done to soften the set up overall, without changing the handling or balance? I'd just like to reduce the amount the car "skips" around due to the rougher surface.
Almost forgot: I'm running pretty much the stock set up the car comes with. Pink rears, purple fronts. stock springs.
Normally I run the pod flat level with the chassis, fully extended.
2 or 3 turns out on the shock length adjuster should give the desired droop for bumpy surfaces.
Up front, apply 30k silicon fluid on the kingpins.
Also the largest dia tire you can get away with, that doesn't spoil your setup.
Blue Center spring, with Silver sides, is a nice balance.
That should help a bunch.
06-15-2011, 02:37 PM
#2869
Thanks guys. I'll work on those things.
06-19-2011, 08:21 AM
#2870
just got my new r5.1 running and i really new when it comes to 1/12 cars. heres my problem, find my rear ride height to a little to high, so what should i do to lower it? should i change the rear axle ride height adjustment part and what part number should i use? thanks in advance... 
07-05-2011, 07:54 PM
#2872
Sorry in advance if this is a super newb question, I have no manuals and am winging it here with my first on road adventure.
I purchased a used r5.1 recently that came with a set of new Jaco tires/wheels, and had a really worn pair of tires installed, not sure of brand. When I installed the new Jaco's I had a problem with the rear tire/wheel rubbing on the chassis on the RH (non diff) side. Are there specific spacers manufactured to move the wheel away from the chassis?
If I shim the LH wheel, will I need to equally space the RH wheel as well, even though clearance is not an issue to keep the symmetry from center?
Also, the diff seems pretty loose, there is a bit of play in the spur gear from side to side, is this normal for on road?
I purchased a used r5.1 recently that came with a set of new Jaco tires/wheels, and had a really worn pair of tires installed, not sure of brand. When I installed the new Jaco's I had a problem with the rear tire/wheel rubbing on the chassis on the RH (non diff) side. Are there specific spacers manufactured to move the wheel away from the chassis?
If I shim the LH wheel, will I need to equally space the RH wheel as well, even though clearance is not an issue to keep the symmetry from center?
Also, the diff seems pretty loose, there is a bit of play in the spur gear from side to side, is this normal for on road?
07-05-2011, 07:59 PM
#2873
Sorry in advance if this is a super newb question, I have no manuals and am winging it here with my first on road adventure.
I purchased a used r5.1 recently that came with a set of new Jaco tires/wheels, and had a really worn pair of tires installed, not sure of brand. When I installed the new Jaco's I had a problem with the rear tire/wheel rubbing on the chassis on the RH (non diff) side. Are there specific spacers manufactured to move the wheel away from the chassis?
If I shim the LH wheel, will I need to equally space the RH wheel as well, even though clearance is not an issue to keep the symmetry from center?
Also, the diff seems pretty loose, there is a bit of play in the spur gear from side to side, is this normal for on road?
I purchased a used r5.1 recently that came with a set of new Jaco tires/wheels, and had a really worn pair of tires installed, not sure of brand. When I installed the new Jaco's I had a problem with the rear tire/wheel rubbing on the chassis on the RH (non diff) side. Are there specific spacers manufactured to move the wheel away from the chassis?
If I shim the LH wheel, will I need to equally space the RH wheel as well, even though clearance is not an issue to keep the symmetry from center?
Also, the diff seems pretty loose, there is a bit of play in the spur gear from side to side, is this normal for on road?
Yes you should shim both sides, try to set the rear track to 172mm.
Not all wheels for 12th scale have the same off-set.
It is normal to have side movement on the spur.
Diff is set and locked when you can hold both wheels and not be able to spin the spur with your thumb.
If it's a really good diff, it wont turn the motor over when it is locked like that.
Here are some links to manuals and stuff
http://www.teamassociated.com/manuals/RC12R5.1/
http://www.rctech.net/forum/californ...ll-so-cal.html
07-05-2011, 08:33 PM
#2874
You all rock, thanks for the info. Reading material here for days!!
Grats on the 12R5, great car you got there.
Yes you should shim both sides, try to set the rear track to 172mm.
Not all wheels for 12th scale have the same off-set.
It is normal to have side movement on the spur.
Diff is set and locked when you can hold both wheels and not be able to spin the spur with your thumb.
If it's a really good diff, it wont turn the motor over when it is locked like that.
Here are some links to manuals and stuff
http://www.teamassociated.com/manuals/RC12R5.1/
http://www.rctech.net/forum/californ...ll-so-cal.html
Yes you should shim both sides, try to set the rear track to 172mm.
Not all wheels for 12th scale have the same off-set.
It is normal to have side movement on the spur.
Diff is set and locked when you can hold both wheels and not be able to spin the spur with your thumb.
If it's a really good diff, it wont turn the motor over when it is locked like that.
Here are some links to manuals and stuff
http://www.teamassociated.com/manuals/RC12R5.1/
http://www.rctech.net/forum/californ...ll-so-cal.html
07-08-2011, 04:48 PM
#2876
07-08-2011, 08:15 PM
#2879
New Chassis
Well, since I sold my 12R5.1 not two weeks ago in anticipation of the new car coming out, I hope they kit the whole thing by Labor Day 
If not...
I also heard, from a bird, whose name rhymes with "Yob," that a 10R5 along the same lines should be out as well. I saw the proto at Carpet Nats and it looked mighty fine.
Fingers crossed.
If not... I also heard, from a bird, whose name rhymes with "Yob," that a 10R5 along the same lines should be out as well. I saw the proto at Carpet Nats and it looked mighty fine.Fingers crossed.
07-09-2011, 03:32 PM
#2880
I think there is a reason this is a conversion kit, rather than a new kit. I mean, there's a T-bar conversion kit too, but the car doesn't come that way. Usually the conversion kit comes out after an upgraded kit, the fact that we are seeing a conversion kit first tells me this isn't the optimum layout for most conditions.
If you read through the features, extended wheelbase for added stability is listed. Which probably means (a) that the liPo woldn't fit properly if the chassis weren't longer, (b) that the changed weight distribution makes the car less stable.
I reckon Associated have seen that OnPoint and others are selling these conversion kits, and thought that they might as well make one too and be the ones selling them.
Also, I would have thought that with this layout we could get rid of the battery tape, but apparently not.
If you read through the features, extended wheelbase for added stability is listed. Which probably means (a) that the liPo woldn't fit properly if the chassis weren't longer, (b) that the changed weight distribution makes the car less stable.
I reckon Associated have seen that OnPoint and others are selling these conversion kits, and thought that they might as well make one too and be the ones selling them.
Also, I would have thought that with this layout we could get rid of the battery tape, but apparently not.