27LikesArrma Typhon Buggy Thread
04-13-2016, 10:30 PM
#31
He probably never heard of it. I don't think anyone knows much about Arrma at RC tracks, the guys at my place had never seen one most likely either. It has been that way for years, almost any race track is full of Losi or Team Associated. Doesn't matter, I wasn't expecting to see any nor any parts on the wall at the track shop. I just bring one of everything I might break, spare arms, hubs, bearings and screws, etc...
04-16-2016, 11:29 AM
#32
Back to the track last Thursday. I regressed. Don't know why. I think I was just going past my limits as I felt more comfortable with the place people and car so maybe I just tried to go too hard at it.
Before next time:
I have my set of Primes and some DE Racing Speedline+ wheels to glue up with them.
I am going to get in to the hot wire and lower the current, all that power does me little good if I can't keep it off the barriers. I need to up my push(Didn't know what it really did until today) as I can't remember landing close to nose up, ever, and half of my issues are endos while landing because my instincts are to let off as soon as I'm in the air. I might open up my neutral % on the TH also as it is default at just a couple % and I might be nudging the brakes without even knowing it.
Also, a lot of noise coming from spur/pinion. Expert opinions confirmed that everything was fine(still looks new and mesh is right on) and the noise is indeed from those gears. *shrug* I thought maybe diffs but even with no diff action it has always been loud(spinning the wheels by hand and diffs are quiet and feel normal/smooth). Very first time I hit the throttle it startled me.
I am ready to get into my shocks and diffs soon. All I have are youtube vids as I know no one locally to help.
Stock shocks are 45 F/R from what I can tell. Experts told me 35 front and 30 rear. Which would definitely help jump attitude and add more mechanical grip overall.
Stock diffs are 7-10-7, which seem a bit much from what I could gather. I need to drop the rear down to 5, or 3.
I sure could use a little more turning coming out, as almost all the rest of my incidents with the barriers were from the car pushing under power.
Before next time:
I have my set of Primes and some DE Racing Speedline+ wheels to glue up with them.
I am going to get in to the hot wire and lower the current, all that power does me little good if I can't keep it off the barriers. I need to up my push(Didn't know what it really did until today) as I can't remember landing close to nose up, ever, and half of my issues are endos while landing because my instincts are to let off as soon as I'm in the air. I might open up my neutral % on the TH also as it is default at just a couple % and I might be nudging the brakes without even knowing it.
Also, a lot of noise coming from spur/pinion. Expert opinions confirmed that everything was fine(still looks new and mesh is right on) and the noise is indeed from those gears. *shrug* I thought maybe diffs but even with no diff action it has always been loud(spinning the wheels by hand and diffs are quiet and feel normal/smooth). Very first time I hit the throttle it startled me.
I am ready to get into my shocks and diffs soon. All I have are youtube vids as I know no one locally to help.
Stock shocks are 45 F/R from what I can tell. Experts told me 35 front and 30 rear. Which would definitely help jump attitude and add more mechanical grip overall.
Stock diffs are 7-10-7, which seem a bit much from what I could gather. I need to drop the rear down to 5, or 3.
I sure could use a little more turning coming out, as almost all the rest of my incidents with the barriers were from the car pushing under power.
04-25-2016, 02:54 PM
#33
I just bought one that will be replacing my Tekno... Yes you heard correctly. I raced it almost completely stock (changed the diff oils and radio) at a local season opener race. The car was pretty loose and I contribute that to the thick shock fluid it had going on. Managed to qualify middle of the B main (out of a total C main field) and then the ESC decided to turn off 4 laps in. My race esc will be going in.
04-25-2016, 05:32 PM
#35
04-25-2016, 07:13 PM
#36
I just bought one that will be replacing my Tekno... Yes you heard correctly. I raced it almost completely stock (changed the diff oils and radio) at a local season opener race. The car was pretty loose and I contribute that to the thick shock fluid it had going on. Managed to qualify middle of the B main (out of a total C main field) and then the ESC decided to turn off 4 laps in. My race esc will be going in.
Just curious, you were not a fan of the EB48 kit? Any specific reasons?
04-25-2016, 07:23 PM
#37
I don't know if anyone noticed but Arrma has refined their 6s BLX line slightly.
The Typhon now has what looks like a rebadged Hobbywing ESC replacing that orange cased whatever it is ESC that initially was offered. A different motor is also in them now(the orange can motor was never bad and it holds up well to anything at my local track(castles and tekin combos). New wheels also(still the same Dboots rubber).
It was a winner anyway at the $300 it was selling for in the spring of this year, but now the value and reliability has shot up.
The Typhon now has what looks like a rebadged Hobbywing ESC replacing that orange cased whatever it is ESC that initially was offered. A different motor is also in them now(the orange can motor was never bad and it holds up well to anything at my local track(castles and tekin combos). New wheels also(still the same Dboots rubber).
It was a winner anyway at the $300 it was selling for in the spring of this year, but now the value and reliability has shot up.
04-25-2016, 08:32 PM
#38
Tech Regular
iTrader: (11)
I don't know if anyone noticed but Arrma has refined their 6s BLX line slightly.
The Typhon now has what looks like a rebadged Hobbywing ESC replacing that orange cased whatever it is ESC that initially was offered. A different motor is also in them now(the orange can motor was never bad and it holds up well to anything at my local track(castles and tekin combos). New wheels also(still the same Dboots rubber).
It was a winner anyway at the $300 it was selling for in the spring of this year, but now the value and reliability has shot up.
The Typhon now has what looks like a rebadged Hobbywing ESC replacing that orange cased whatever it is ESC that initially was offered. A different motor is also in them now(the orange can motor was never bad and it holds up well to anything at my local track(castles and tekin combos). New wheels also(still the same Dboots rubber).
It was a winner anyway at the $300 it was selling for in the spring of this year, but now the value and reliability has shot up.
04-25-2016, 09:27 PM
#39
Also comes with a Tactics radio now, which I believe has EPA, another step up.
http://www.arrma-rc.com/rc-cars/latest/typhon/blx
http://www.arrma-rc.com/rc-cars/latest/typhon/blx
04-26-2016, 11:34 AM
#40
When my buddy scooped one up last fall, I took it for a spin to get an initial idea...I thought it was a great value. I think he had some ESC issues and one/two wheels broke. Otherwise, it's held up to some serious abuse. But hey, for the initial investment and the savings over many other overpriced (IMO) kits, the Typhon just blew me away. I'm heavily considering the purchase of one within the week.
Just curious, you were not a fan of the EB48 kit? Any specific reasons?
Just curious, you were not a fan of the EB48 kit? Any specific reasons?
The Tekno isnt bad but for all the hype i expected more. I had a Ofna SSE before the Tekno and did better with that vs what I did with the Tekno.
04-26-2016, 01:48 PM
#41
Interesting. Yeah, I guess it all comes down to practical use and experience with different brands and platforms. As curious as I am to jump on a 1/8 scale buggy, I'm always digging for feedback on what other drivers have experience with. The notion of a 1/8 rtr like the Typhon is really tempting (and cheap)...the other half of me is screaming to just throw money down on a kit and build something a bit more refined and personal.
04-26-2016, 06:01 PM
#43
Interesting. Yeah, I guess it all comes down to practical use and experience with different brands and platforms. As curious as I am to jump on a 1/8 scale buggy, I'm always digging for feedback on what other drivers have experience with. The notion of a 1/8 rtr like the Typhon is really tempting (and cheap)...the other half of me is screaming to just throw money down on a kit and build something a bit more refined and personal.
remember the Typhon is basically a durango dex8 with less of the bells and whistles.
04-26-2016, 07:25 PM
#44
I am a new guy to 1/8 brushless and it is my first RC car in many years. I think the buggy really nails it for someone like me.
There is no way no how that I'd ever invest $1000-$1500 in a big name roller/kit(thoroughbred) racing vehicle and the whole works to go track day run, let alone race.
Just sets of 1/8 buggy wheels/tires have killed that option for me before starting. I only go to practice days and run medium compound or whatever is a couple levels harder than super soft clay tires, I'm not even close to wearing out my first set. I see guys running super softs, and they are gone fast and $60 a set.
I think if you already have a stable of cars and all the support equipment to go along with it you aren't the RTR 1/8 buggy type. Arrma has done really well to give someone the chance to run a pretty decent quality platform for a hell of a price, though. I will reiterate my story, in the 1980s there was RC Modeler magazine, and they had big gorgeous ads of Kyosho 1/8 nitro buggies. I dreamed of such a vehicle, but it was never going to happen then. I vowed that some day I was going to own such a beast. This is the car I dreamed of, and it matches up exactly to that dream of tearing off across wherever and little slowing it down. Old hat to many I guess, but I am still grinning every time I go to the track and for a couple hours after.
While it has some good family genetics and many parts from the DEX8 swap in there has to be many corners cut to sell a whole RTR set up for much less than a DEX8 kit with basically nothing in it. From what I gather many hardened alloy parts that are quite a bit lighter, but not longer lasting, and quite a bit more expensive. CVDs off the center diff, a sliding center mount but I have no clue about it. Many various things where little expense was spared, I'm sure.
Anyway. Back from the track tonight. Last time there I heard a slight squeak, so I had lubed the bearings. One seized tonight towards the end of the session. Inner hub front right. I had read the warnings in various threads, this is one of those corners Arrma cut, minimal quality bearings.
I have spares, and a set of much better sealed bearings. So looks like some tearing down for me before next track day.
It did last what has to be a couple three hours of track runtime, so not horrible. It was expected, though.
There is no way no how that I'd ever invest $1000-$1500 in a big name roller/kit(thoroughbred) racing vehicle and the whole works to go track day run, let alone race.
Just sets of 1/8 buggy wheels/tires have killed that option for me before starting. I only go to practice days and run medium compound or whatever is a couple levels harder than super soft clay tires, I'm not even close to wearing out my first set. I see guys running super softs, and they are gone fast and $60 a set.
I think if you already have a stable of cars and all the support equipment to go along with it you aren't the RTR 1/8 buggy type. Arrma has done really well to give someone the chance to run a pretty decent quality platform for a hell of a price, though. I will reiterate my story, in the 1980s there was RC Modeler magazine, and they had big gorgeous ads of Kyosho 1/8 nitro buggies. I dreamed of such a vehicle, but it was never going to happen then. I vowed that some day I was going to own such a beast. This is the car I dreamed of, and it matches up exactly to that dream of tearing off across wherever and little slowing it down. Old hat to many I guess, but I am still grinning every time I go to the track and for a couple hours after.
While it has some good family genetics and many parts from the DEX8 swap in there has to be many corners cut to sell a whole RTR set up for much less than a DEX8 kit with basically nothing in it. From what I gather many hardened alloy parts that are quite a bit lighter, but not longer lasting, and quite a bit more expensive. CVDs off the center diff, a sliding center mount but I have no clue about it. Many various things where little expense was spared, I'm sure.
Anyway. Back from the track tonight. Last time there I heard a slight squeak, so I had lubed the bearings. One seized tonight towards the end of the session. Inner hub front right. I had read the warnings in various threads, this is one of those corners Arrma cut, minimal quality bearings.
I have spares, and a set of much better sealed bearings. So looks like some tearing down for me before next track day.
It did last what has to be a couple three hours of track runtime, so not horrible. It was expected, though.
04-26-2016, 07:49 PM
#45
Tech Regular
The Typhoon is a good car and the Duratrax 835e is also a good car.
I have the Duratrax and its my first electric 8th scale.
The Typhoon id easliy get if i didnt already have the Duratrax.
Im also the type a guy that doesnt wanna spend $1000-$2000 on an brushless 8th.
The Duratrax I got because it was $400. The Typhoon is basically the same price.
I have the Duratrax and its my first electric 8th scale.
The Typhoon id easliy get if i didnt already have the Duratrax.
Im also the type a guy that doesnt wanna spend $1000-$2000 on an brushless 8th.
The Duratrax I got because it was $400. The Typhoon is basically the same price.