TC3 Forum
#3061
Planted
I am so happy!!!!!!
I am just a novice driver! (beginner because lack of track time)
But I saw my skills improving with a TC3!!!! heheheheh
started at the B-main (missed the qualifying, was in surgery)
was in sixth place!!!! 1st main--- third, 2nd-- broke a front left arm(vying for 1st), still manage 4th, last heat-- 2nd!!!
Not bad considering I always finish last!!!!!
Was just so happy with my car!!!!!! and what better place to show my elation than in this thread!!!
even one of our supplier of AE could not believe it!!!!!! hehehehehe was just so happy!!!! Thnaks to all those who helped me heheheheheh!!!!!
Lem
I am just a novice driver! (beginner because lack of track time)
But I saw my skills improving with a TC3!!!! heheheheh
started at the B-main (missed the qualifying, was in surgery)
was in sixth place!!!! 1st main--- third, 2nd-- broke a front left arm(vying for 1st), still manage 4th, last heat-- 2nd!!!
Not bad considering I always finish last!!!!!
Was just so happy with my car!!!!!! and what better place to show my elation than in this thread!!!
even one of our supplier of AE could not believe it!!!!!! hehehehehe was just so happy!!!! Thnaks to all those who helped me heheheheheh!!!!!
Lem
#3062
Regional Moderator
lem2 - good job. Keep hitting the track, you'll blow them away in the A mains
#3063
Tech Apprentice
Hi, I live in asia, where isnt much parts support for tc3. does anyone of any online shops that stock up on tc3 parts, preferably around asia?
My order hasnt arrived from tower hobbies and it has been more than 2 months since they shipped it.
My order hasnt arrived from tower hobbies and it has been more than 2 months since they shipped it.
#3064
#3065
Tech Initiate
Bearings
I used to skateboard, we cleaned our bearings all the time. Heres what we always did, made them like new.
1. take out the bearing, be careful not to scratch the center.
2. (only if your bearings have removeable sheilds) take the shields off and clean them
3. Place the bearings in a bath of WD40
4. take the bearings out, let the wd40 drip out, then wipe the down with a rag
5. use TELFON oil only put 1-3 drops in bearing
6. replace bearing into car/truck
(telfon oil can be bought at all sk8board shops, graphite work well also)
1. take out the bearing, be careful not to scratch the center.
2. (only if your bearings have removeable sheilds) take the shields off and clean them
3. Place the bearings in a bath of WD40
4. take the bearings out, let the wd40 drip out, then wipe the down with a rag
5. use TELFON oil only put 1-3 drops in bearing
6. replace bearing into car/truck
(telfon oil can be bought at all sk8board shops, graphite work well also)
#3066
So everyone (one person) is saying to true my tires at 60mm and go from there...?
Anyways, just annoucing that we (Durham RC Speedway) will be hosting the 2003 Roar Electric Onroad Paved Nations! Sweet!! I'm siked! Home track and all and I'll still get my butt whooped by the Pros! It'll be in June... and I'm trying to get Don (track owner) to go with a control tire. Any thoughts on this? Right now Don is just fishing for info....
So anyhow getting ready for next weekend. Cleveland! Time to get whooped by the fast carpet guys! At least I'll have the local motor tuner (Mindblown ) with us there to tune my Handout motors. Saves me alot of time so that I can concentrate on my TC3 setup. Any other guys here goin?
Well let me head out..... gotta get my 414 ready for tomorrow's race at Durham....... I won today here at Rosewood!
Jimmy Mac
Anyways, just annoucing that we (Durham RC Speedway) will be hosting the 2003 Roar Electric Onroad Paved Nations! Sweet!! I'm siked! Home track and all and I'll still get my butt whooped by the Pros! It'll be in June... and I'm trying to get Don (track owner) to go with a control tire. Any thoughts on this? Right now Don is just fishing for info....
So anyhow getting ready for next weekend. Cleveland! Time to get whooped by the fast carpet guys! At least I'll have the local motor tuner (Mindblown ) with us there to tune my Handout motors. Saves me alot of time so that I can concentrate on my TC3 setup. Any other guys here goin?
Well let me head out..... gotta get my 414 ready for tomorrow's race at Durham....... I won today here at Rosewood!
Jimmy Mac
#3067
Hi, you can try this site... www.pitshoponline.com
lem2: congrats!!!
lem2: congrats!!!
Originally posted by Lerlo
Hi, I live in asia, where isnt much parts support for tc3. does anyone of any online shops that stock up on tc3 parts, preferably around asia?
My order hasnt arrived from tower hobbies and it has been more than 2 months since they shipped it.
Hi, I live in asia, where isnt much parts support for tc3. does anyone of any online shops that stock up on tc3 parts, preferably around asia?
My order hasnt arrived from tower hobbies and it has been more than 2 months since they shipped it.
#3068
NTC3 steering rack
Have any of you guys addapted the NTC3 steering set-up to your TC3s? I recieved some good advice this weekend from a Pro driver, and I did it to a spare graphite chassis with out any difficulty. I'm not sure how it will work out (his car looked like it was working well!), but it sure looks trick.
#3069
I gave it some thought a while back, but I couldn't find any practical way to do it. The factory TC3 steering rack works well so I wasn't TOO inclined to change it.
#3070
I got a TC3 a few days back, and raced it yesterday. I have a few questions regarding the car.
First off, I was having to pre-load my left rear shock (battery side) alot more than the opposite side, and the shock had too much preload to make ride height, causing the car to unload funny coming out of the corners. It appeared as though there was less material on one side of the rear of the chassis than the other, causing the bottom to be slanted, which meant I was getting inacurate droop adjustments. I fixed the droop, and this helped a little but did not fix the problem. Today I took the chassis off the car and set it on a flat surface. There is just as much material on one side as the other, but the rear of the chassis is tweaked to the side, just the piece that the rear bulkhead sits on. Is this a common occurance on TC3's?
My car is also alot noisier than I expected it to be. What are some ways to make the car quieter, aside from using lighter oil in the bearings?
Thanks,
Josh
First off, I was having to pre-load my left rear shock (battery side) alot more than the opposite side, and the shock had too much preload to make ride height, causing the car to unload funny coming out of the corners. It appeared as though there was less material on one side of the rear of the chassis than the other, causing the bottom to be slanted, which meant I was getting inacurate droop adjustments. I fixed the droop, and this helped a little but did not fix the problem. Today I took the chassis off the car and set it on a flat surface. There is just as much material on one side as the other, but the rear of the chassis is tweaked to the side, just the piece that the rear bulkhead sits on. Is this a common occurance on TC3's?
My car is also alot noisier than I expected it to be. What are some ways to make the car quieter, aside from using lighter oil in the bearings?
Thanks,
Josh
#3071
speedo, you may need to shim the out drives on the diff, and also you could try using some quality tapered gear lube where the diff ring gear meshes with the drive pinion.
#3073
Thanks for the help as far as quietness, I'll try that out...
I made the chassis flat by clamping it down and heating it, then letting it cool while still clamped down. The chassis is now flat, but I am still having the problem with preload. I am having to preload the shocks too much to tweak the car, and to set ride height equally. I just cannot figure this out, the chassis is now flat, the droop is equal, I checked it using both the droop guage and by setting the car on a flat surface and using a ride height gauge.
Has anybody else had this problem?
I made the chassis flat by clamping it down and heating it, then letting it cool while still clamped down. The chassis is now flat, but I am still having the problem with preload. I am having to preload the shocks too much to tweak the car, and to set ride height equally. I just cannot figure this out, the chassis is now flat, the droop is equal, I checked it using both the droop guage and by setting the car on a flat surface and using a ride height gauge.
Has anybody else had this problem?
#3074
Tech Master
Speedo
I think you should check your droop screws. If the droop is checked in the wrong place on the arm you will have no dropp causing the car to have preload. The droop adjust the upward movement of the chassis. The ride height has nothing to do with the droop. You should adjust the droop to 6 in the front and 4 in the rear. This should give the car good up travel and plenty of ride height. (5 or 6 mm)
You should adjust the droop with the gauge that comes with the car. Do this below the hinge pin of the arms . Do not check it on the castor blocks. On the back side of the front and rear arms.
You should adjust the droop with the gauge that comes with the car. Do this below the hinge pin of the arms . Do not check it on the castor blocks. On the back side of the front and rear arms.
#3075
Hi all. Greetings from Malta.
SPEEDO> Congrats on your new TC3.
As you know my son Josh has run one successfully for the last 3 seasons.
We have ours set up very soft, to ride the bumps better. I don't use the droop screws at all and leave the shocks without any preload at all. We use slightly longer springs than standard - Fastrax, which compress by about a quarter of their length when the car is on it's wheels. The ride height ends up at about 6mm. It tends to increase body roll but it also increases grip - and more importantly, it gives results - 4 wins in the last 4 nationals in mod.
As for chassis tweek, have you tried the car on the track? Although they seem to be alarmingly bent if you lay the chassis down on a glass board, they still seem to work well on the track.
Good luck.
Joe from sunny Malta.
SPEEDO> Congrats on your new TC3.
As you know my son Josh has run one successfully for the last 3 seasons.
We have ours set up very soft, to ride the bumps better. I don't use the droop screws at all and leave the shocks without any preload at all. We use slightly longer springs than standard - Fastrax, which compress by about a quarter of their length when the car is on it's wheels. The ride height ends up at about 6mm. It tends to increase body roll but it also increases grip - and more importantly, it gives results - 4 wins in the last 4 nationals in mod.
As for chassis tweek, have you tried the car on the track? Although they seem to be alarmingly bent if you lay the chassis down on a glass board, they still seem to work well on the track.
Good luck.
Joe from sunny Malta.