793bob

i believe on page 7 or 8 there is a base setup posted by rocket42. i don't have a hyper 8 myself yet but planning to get one.

Rocket42

i have decided to go with the x-ray buggy for the 07 season. if you end up getting a hyper 8, go with the blue mugen springs, they are a little stiffer than the stock springs and work really well.

793bob

i hope that you will still come to this forum and help me out when i get my car.i found that rc tech seems to be the place that has the best info.have fun with xray.

bob

Rocket42

yeah i will still be here if you have any questions but i won't be able to answer any questions about the new products coming out for the hyper 8, hyper 8 is a good car, mine is for sale if your interested has all the mods done, and i will throw in the mugen blue springs which cost around $20 for the set. with some new ballcups and new rear hub carriers the car will be like brand new.

Jason Mills

Hi Hyper8 drivers. I've noticed a reasonable amount of wear on the output shafts of my spider diffs. This looks like it will loosen up the gear mesh in the front and rear boxes. Anyone had one blow up (strip its gear teeth or die a similar horrible death) or should I just chill out and live with a bit of slop?

WYLDTHING

iTrader: (159)

The back diff on my H8 has been that way for quite a while (probably a gallon), and hasn't caused any problems yet. I don't really like the slop either, but it doesn't seem to make a difference in performance or reliability. When I first noticed it, I did go ahead and buy a spare diff and case to keep around just in case of a failure, but so far it has just been riding around in the parts box...It seems like it got to a certain amount of play, and then hasn't gotten any worse, so I don't know...I would say just run it, and make sure you have a spare with ya before you take any long trips to race or whatever...

Brad

Nexus

iTrader: (42)

Anyone using a Hyper 8 RTR?

Any feedback/details?

raydog

iTrader: (156)

I have a Hyper 8 roller in excellent shape for sale, anyone interested ?

793bob

hi rocket42 , did you recieve my emails about your car i am interested in it.i live in CANADA.

BOB

Rocket42

no i haven't received any emails yet. you can email me at [email protected]

Jason Mills

Hey Brad, good news I'm not alone with the baggy diffs. Bad news, I just blew a very sweet Picco P7-R. She was running a treat and the car was handling great-then I lost top end power so pulled her in to have a look. Bloody air filter had come off. What a crap end to a tight motor.

WYLDTHING

iTrader: (159)

Wow Jason, THAT STINKS!!! Sorry to hear about that!!! I think that would be enough to make me sick...You may have already done this, but just in case you hadn't...make sure you zip tie that sucker on there. That will USUALLY keep it from coming off...If you had it zip tied, then fire the guy that put it on...lol...Keep us informed of how it goes...TTYL..

Brad

Jason Mills

I think that might be me then. Consider myself sacked! Anyway, new piston and sleave on the way. Any special break in tips bearing in mind it's just the top end that's new. First time I've run in a race engine.

WYLDTHING

iTrader: (159)

Hey Jason;
Their are varied opinions on "how to break in a new engine"...lol. I'll give ya the most common method, and the one I always use...

The needles should be set from the factory (depending on the manufacturer), but basically you want to get it started running rich, and idle it around till the tank of fuel is gone, giving it just enough throttle to keep it running. When it stops running, make sure you turn the flywheel so the piston is at BDC (bottom dead center, at the bottom of the sleeve) while it cools down. Wait til it's completely cooled down, turn the high speed needle in about an 1/8th of a turn, and repeat the process. Do this for about 5 tanks of fuel, making sure that the engine doesn't get too much over 200 degrees for the first 3 tanks, then making sure that it doesn't get much over 225 for the last 2 tanks of fuel.
Beginning with the second tank, you can give it longer bursts of more throttle, kinda starting with 1/4 throttle with the second tank, then 1/2 with the 3rd, etc...
The break-in process is the same for a new piston and sleeve, as it is with a brand new engine. You might want to replace the rod too, as they sometimes fail after putting a new piston and sleeve, cuz they aren't designed for the stress of 2 break-in processes...
Hope this helps...Let me know if you have anymore questions....TTYL..

Brad

Jason Mills

Hey Brad I've taken a look at your Hyper 8. That's a clean machine, you ever heard of clay? Man does it plaster your car. I live in not so sunny Devon (at the bottom of England) and mud is the word right now. The sort of stuff that locks up bearings and turns a slick beast into a stiffening corpse. Got any pics of your local tracks? I'm hoping someone's got better conditions than I have at the moment.