Engine Tuning
10-05-2007, 07:01 AM
#16
Tech Regular
Thread Starter
Thanks for all the feedback.
10-05-2007, 06:45 PM
#19
Air leaks check next!
the pinch test is a good method to check mixture, but I've had this type of problem before and it turned out to be an air leak on either the carb or back plate, I change both o-rings so not sure which it was but solved the problem.
10-14-2007, 12:22 AM
#21
I have the gt2 with the stock ae .15 in it and have the high speed needle and low speed set to factory setting(high speed 2 1/2 turns out and low speed 1/16 out from flush) but the engine heats up to about 320 degrees but it runs like it is rich, like it should with those settings. Why is it running that hot with these settings.
D.Lasoski20
D.Lasoski20
10-14-2007, 01:11 PM
#22
and i just replaced all the gaskets and seals so there are no air leaks.
10-14-2007, 01:54 PM
#23
When you say it revs up for a few seconds, are you saying that after a few seconds the idle will drop?
EDIT: Nevermind I reread your post and I see the idle eventually drops. I'm going to go against the grain here and say that I think your too rich on the lsn and the idle screw set too hight to compensate for the overly rich bottom.
Get your car out and run it around to get the engine warmed up (200+). Assuming you have your hsn is set, I'll usually just throw it back on the starter box or car stand and rev it a bit to "clear it out". Now WOT to rev it (don't hold it or go crazy and blow your motor) then nail the brake and listen to the motor. If the idle stays high and then slowly drops, lean your lsn (you'll probably have to lower your idle after you lean it). If you do this and your idle drops when you hit the brake and slowly raises, the you need to richen your lsn. Your goal is to get it to almost immediately return to the same idle as before you did the wot. When done you may need to adjust your idle screw. This is how I've always done it and it works great for me. Once I do this I rarely have to touch the lsn, usually just the hsn.
EDIT: Nevermind I reread your post and I see the idle eventually drops. I'm going to go against the grain here and say that I think your too rich on the lsn and the idle screw set too hight to compensate for the overly rich bottom.
Get your car out and run it around to get the engine warmed up (200+). Assuming you have your hsn is set, I'll usually just throw it back on the starter box or car stand and rev it a bit to "clear it out". Now WOT to rev it (don't hold it or go crazy and blow your motor) then nail the brake and listen to the motor. If the idle stays high and then slowly drops, lean your lsn (you'll probably have to lower your idle after you lean it). If you do this and your idle drops when you hit the brake and slowly raises, the you need to richen your lsn. Your goal is to get it to almost immediately return to the same idle as before you did the wot. When done you may need to adjust your idle screw. This is how I've always done it and it works great for me. Once I do this I rarely have to touch the lsn, usually just the hsn.
This is the best method I have found. The pinch test just isn't very consistent which makes it hard to know exactly which way you need to go.
10-15-2007, 01:22 PM
#24
motor
Hey stiffler!! motors can get on your nerves sometimes, so have patience !!I had the same problem with my motor after I broke it in: The LSN was too rich and the IDLE was too high, but I couldn't figure it out. I tried every combination possible. ("heal, I command you!!" heheh) I was going nuts.
A guy that was passing by the pit area saw me pulling hair and just casualy says "lean out the LSN", so I kept working on it...After a while, he came by again and as casualy as the first time he said: "I said lean it out..." "I did"-I answer. "I mean a lot!!" he says. So I did , and little by little the motor transformed before my eyes!!!
There's usually a lot of wise-cracks at the tracks and you should be weary of unsolicited advice, but this guy saved my life. So don't dispair...and lean out the LSN, for pete's sake!!! heheheheheh
10-16-2007, 07:04 AM
#25
Tech Regular
Thread Starter
I was so frustrated with it I gave it to a friend of mine. Ended up buying the Picco .28T for my truggy instead. Much more responsive to tuning and runs like a champ. Thanks all for the advice.
10-16-2007, 01:47 PM
#26
p7
Hmmmm!! Maybe he'll fix it's wagon!! You should feel a difference between a 0.21 compared to a 0-28!!!!!
10-16-2007, 02:23 PM
#27
sounds like u got an air leak. get some soap and apply to al needles and around the carb see if it dissapears real fast.. if it does then yoiu got an air leak... also check the back plate and.. if all of that fials it might be ur front bearing..;...
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