Fasttrak

Thanks for the feedback, trying to find the range of usable adjustments this buggy is capable of. I can't even imagine this buggy with 4S on an indoor track, mine is running at 60% current limit and it is pretty crazy fast already. I think everyone loves a ton of steering so a few dollars to try the .2 blocks is worth the investment to experiment. What parts are actually needed or is it just the front blocks from the .2 kit?



Nor Cal has a pretty good selection but like Amain, is missing many of the tuning options of pistons, sway-bars, springs and other items. I will check on the stock of pills. Just figured I should of had more than the 12 pills my kit had having seen pictures of the tree most kits come with, not the end of the world and probably not too expensive either. I did get the final set of sway-bars and springs directly from Tekno in the mail today, dying to put these through the tests and see how the buggy reacts with some stiffer springs, sway-bars and shock package.

rcgod

iTrader: (33)

You need the uprights and spindles and the outer bearings are smaller. Don't know what size they are offhand

rcgod

iTrader: (33)

The outer bearing size is 8x14x4

justpoet

iTrader: (16)

As rcgod mentioned, spindles, spindle carriers, and the smaller bearings. For the spindle carriers, there are the old 10 degree ones, the old 15 degree ones that most seemed to like, and then of course the new trailing 15 degree ones that are part of the .3. The 10 degree ones will be the most aggressive.
http://www.teknorc.com/shop/tkr5041-...eft-and-right/
http://www.teknorc.com/shop/tkr5042-...eft-and-right/
http://www.teknorc.com/shop/tkr5042b...eft-and-right/

Fasttrak

Thanks, just placed the order and dying to try this out with my current setup. Curious to see how the .2 10 and 15 degree castor changes handling with the stock pills.

vwduud

iTrader: (48)

How many of you are experimenting with softer spring setups, both front and rear? What softer springs have you tried? What have been your results?

Motox984

iTrader: (9)

Building the kit and I have a question. How much play should there be in the front arms? They have at least 1mm to 1.5mm of it the rear barely had any play. Just seems to me that's a lot of movement on the hinge pin's. The hinge pin holder screws are as tight as I can get them equal amount of play on each side. This is my first Tekno last couple cars I had were Mugen and Xay which came with shims for the arms.

justpoet

iTrader: (16)

It is normal for there to be some play, with more or less play depending on the angle of the pins. This is true for both the front and the back. It is safe to shim them as long as you do so without binding on either side, though shimming is not required. If you do shim, don't shim really tight, or dirt will get stuck and add binding to it all.

justpoet

iTrader: (16)

I've seen people run as soft as black front pink rear. I personally run much stiffer and heavier than most, so I'm running green front red rear for most tracks (with Losi 35 and 6x1.5 pistons). The more common soft setups I believe are pink front and green or yellow rear.

bigco66

just ordered a eb48.3 buggy just wondering if the pro-line phantom body will fit on the car? or even the jconcepts one? thank you for your input.

GettinLapped

iTrader: (53)

for sure it will

MX304

iTrader: (21)

Both of them will fit great.

rcgod

iTrader: (33)

What setup changes have you tried so far to get more steering?

Fasttrak

Mine was built a couple weeks ago and I noticed the same thing. I used a Associated red o-ring I removed from one of my shocks I had rebuilt with x-rings. It doesn't bind the free movement of the arms and stops that irritating front-to-rear slide of the arm on the hinge pin.



So far, just about everything I could with spring packages and piston\oil on shocks I have had available, tons of new parts just showed up.
(Front- Green\8X1.4\Assoc 35 - Rear- Green\8X1.4\Assoc 32.5)
Front Mount- Upper All the way in. Lower all the way out.
Rear Mount- Upper Second from all the way in. Lower all the way out.

Camber links in just about every location to see how the chassis responded to entry, mid and exit body roll.
(Front Inner- Lowest Inside hole - Front Outer- Inside Hole)
(Rear Inner- Lowest Outside Hole - Rear Outer- Third Hole out counting inside to out)

Ride Height- with a fairly smooth high bite track with out too many jumps but two fairly high jumps to need shock pack and ride height to keep from chassis slapping. Settled on Front- 27 Rear- 25

Sway-Bars- Only had lower rate swaybars from stock with local inventory and Amain. 23mm Front and 22mm Rear. I just received a package from Tekno with all the 26mm + to test out next along with some better machined pistons.

I actually have a pretty dialed car but a bit softer than is needed for the track I primarily run on, Nor Cal Hobbies. With all the springs I just got and sway bars, I will be able to test out pushing the shock package along with the sway bars to see how those test out. I am probably having as much fun setting this chassis up and just learning this stuff all over again, it gets pretty complicated when you start fighting for that last few % points of balance.

Tekno was sold out on the pills and I do not have a set with the diagonal two dots and the side two dots. Waiting on those to test out anti-squat and rear toe.

Tires-
Losi Street- Cheap and pretty darn good on this smooth dirt\clay track. Better just after a cleaning and watering and gets pretty loose outside the groove and when the track blows out.

Duratrax Banditos C3- A tad bit better under same conditions as the Losi's and quite a bit more money when built.

Pro Line Electron Gold- Pretty good tire and better than the previous two in both a clean, wet track and when it blows out. This tire can be pushed harder on power and rotates a bit better off power.

AKA Typo Clay- Similar characteristics as the Electrons with a bit better hold in all conditions.

Pro Line Prime Gold- Best tire for this track in all conditions. It might give up a bit of heavy on power acceleration out of the corners once the track gets totally blown out but is easily managed with throttle control. I love this tire and it was putting a serious grin on my face the whole time I ran them.

I still have a ton to learn about tuning, especially an off-road vehicle, but I am getting more done each week with the tuning parts getting ordered and put through their paces. The other thing is finding a driving style that I like and can get good lap times with was something I had not considered and was working on this last weekend. I find that I prefer the buggy slightly loose in the back end on heavy acceleration in the corner, it makes getting the buggy to rotate through tight 180 sweepers much easier. I guess many would find my buggy a bit on the twitchy side With the shock package I have now I was eating up the other 1/8th buggies in the in-field switch backs and through the rhythm section, my chassis just went through there super stable and I would have to totally screw the timing and chassis slap the top of the mogul to get unsettled and even then I almost always got control and lost little time.


Diffs- I picked up Kyosho branded oils as I figured they have been doing it so long and winning they couldn't be too bad. I will have to hunt down PTRC (not sure the name but seen it mentioned a couple times in this and the EB48 thread). I have 20K, 10K, 8K, 7K, 6K, 5K and 4K.

I settled on- F-7K/M-10K/R-4K, I like this ballance of on and off power distribution. I will adjust as needed once I play with the heavier shock springs and sway bars.

Not had this much fun with an rc car in a very long time, something about these 1/8th scale just strikes at the inner kid in me.

EricM

I'm really wanting to buy this kit. I'm just need a nudge. I'm deciding on this and 2 others. Would you recommend it? I'm a beginner into the world of Buggys. Been flying planes and helis the last couple years.