Xray T4'14
#1084
Tech Master
iTrader: (21)
I have convert my T4 to T4'14 with original Xray parts and it cost me around
130 USD and delivered by RCmart HK.
I must say my T4'13 was in good chape, and i did compete with it in and outdoor in the 13.5 class.
As my T4'13 was wear out then I buy the 14.
If I sold my T4'13 it cost a lot more to get me a T4'14.
130 USD and delivered by RCmart HK.
I must say my T4'13 was in good chape, and i did compete with it in and outdoor in the 13.5 class.
As my T4'13 was wear out then I buy the 14.
If I sold my T4'13 it cost a lot more to get me a T4'14.
#1085
Tech Apprentice
iTrader: (1)
It cost me about $170 inc shipping, way cheaper than a new kit and way less hasle than selling and buying new.
I needed to put in an order at 2 online stores for all of the parts to be in stock, but that didn't bother me too much.
I didn't buy the top deck, only chassis, arm mounts, front arms, pins, layshaft bulk heads. Car works perfect.
#1088
Tech Elite
iTrader: (8)
I'm looking for suggestions to gain steering everywhere on a large, fast, low grip asphalt track, without killing the tires. I've tried a bunch of things with gemoetry. Some have helped a bit. But I think my overall issue is probably tires at this point.
Rough setup:
Kit springs, assoc 40f/37.5r (it's possible I accidentally swapped shocka front to rear, though)
Medium links, Front 1mm in and out, rear 2mm in and 4mm out
FF .5 out, FR center, RF .5 up, RR .5 up
1mm ackerman
Front arms forward
4mm bump steer
-1.5 camber
A pinch of toe out front (eyeballed)
Front spool, rear 2000
Mazdaspeed 6
5.5 with boost
Before, the rear mounts were .5 out. I think .5 up is better, but I'm just not sure. Front sweep seems good. I first tried just the FF change. Then I took it out again after other changes (just to see). Then I added it back in with arms forward to try and isolate it more, and I don't think it was as good.
But the tires take long enough to get heat, it's really hard to gauge the changes.
The big thing I haven't messed with yet is springs and shock angles.
-Mike
Rough setup:
Kit springs, assoc 40f/37.5r (it's possible I accidentally swapped shocka front to rear, though)
Medium links, Front 1mm in and out, rear 2mm in and 4mm out
FF .5 out, FR center, RF .5 up, RR .5 up
1mm ackerman
Front arms forward
4mm bump steer
-1.5 camber
A pinch of toe out front (eyeballed)
Front spool, rear 2000
Mazdaspeed 6
5.5 with boost
Before, the rear mounts were .5 out. I think .5 up is better, but I'm just not sure. Front sweep seems good. I first tried just the FF change. Then I took it out again after other changes (just to see). Then I added it back in with arms forward to try and isolate it more, and I don't think it was as good.
But the tires take long enough to get heat, it's really hard to gauge the changes.
The big thing I haven't messed with yet is springs and shock angles.
-Mike
#1089
I'm looking for suggestions to gain steering everywhere on a large, fast, low grip asphalt track, without killing the tires. I've tried a bunch of things with gemoetry. Some have helped a bit. But I think my overall issue is probably tires at this point.
Rough setup:
Kit springs, assoc 40f/37.5r (it's possible I accidentally swapped shocka front to rear, though)
Medium links, Front 1mm in and out, rear 2mm in and 4mm out
FF .5 out, FR center, RF .5 up, RR .5 up
1mm ackerman
Front arms forward
4mm bump steer
-1.5 camber
A pinch of toe out front (eyeballed)
Front spool, rear 2000
Mazdaspeed 6
5.5 with boost
Before, the rear mounts were .5 out. I think .5 up is better, but I'm just not sure. Front sweep seems good. I first tried just the FF change. Then I took it out again after other changes (just to see). Then I added it back in with arms forward to try and isolate it more, and I don't think it was as good.
But the tires take long enough to get heat, it's really hard to gauge the changes.
The big thing I haven't messed with yet is springs and shock angles.
-Mike
Rough setup:
Kit springs, assoc 40f/37.5r (it's possible I accidentally swapped shocka front to rear, though)
Medium links, Front 1mm in and out, rear 2mm in and 4mm out
FF .5 out, FR center, RF .5 up, RR .5 up
1mm ackerman
Front arms forward
4mm bump steer
-1.5 camber
A pinch of toe out front (eyeballed)
Front spool, rear 2000
Mazdaspeed 6
5.5 with boost
Before, the rear mounts were .5 out. I think .5 up is better, but I'm just not sure. Front sweep seems good. I first tried just the FF change. Then I took it out again after other changes (just to see). Then I added it back in with arms forward to try and isolate it more, and I don't think it was as good.
But the tires take long enough to get heat, it's really hard to gauge the changes.
The big thing I haven't messed with yet is springs and shock angles.
-Mike
#1090
Tech Elite
iTrader: (8)
EDIT: what about moving weight toward the rear?
-Mike
#1091
True. I'm trying to avoid painting while I'm on vacation, though. But now that you mention it, the guys that are going faster are running other bodies. How do the blitz TSX and WRX compare to the ltc-r and the mazdaspeed 6? I'd love to try a speed 6 gx, but I don't think I can find one.
EDIT: what about moving weight toward the rear?
-Mike
EDIT: what about moving weight toward the rear?
-Mike
Try leaning your rear shocks in one hole to position 1 or 2.
Stiffer rear springs
It's dependant on the track but I've not liked heavy shock oil on either of the T4's, 350-450 on asphalt.
Skiddins
#1092
Tech Rookie
Front gear diff
Has anyone tried a front gear diff in their t4 14?
I'm after som more steering on power and would be nice a little more of power?
I'm after som more steering on power and would be nice a little more of power?
#1094
Tech Rookie
Just running the kit oil at mo, only had the car a couple of weeks so just trying lost of things and seeing what works
#1095
I'm looking for suggestions to gain steering everywhere on a large, fast, low grip asphalt track, without killing the tires. I've tried a bunch of things with gemoetry. Some have helped a bit. But I think my overall issue is probably tires at this point.
Rough setup:
Kit springs, assoc 40f/37.5r (it's possible I accidentally swapped shocka front to rear, though)
Medium links, Front 1mm in and out, rear 2mm in and 4mm out
FF .5 out, FR center, RF .5 up, RR .5 up
1mm ackerman
Front arms forward
4mm bump steer
-1.5 camber
A pinch of toe out front (eyeballed)
Front spool, rear 2000
Mazdaspeed 6
5.5 with boost
Before, the rear mounts were .5 out. I think .5 up is better, but I'm just not sure. Front sweep seems good. I first tried just the FF change. Then I took it out again after other changes (just to see). Then I added it back in with arms forward to try and isolate it more, and I don't think it was as good.
But the tires take long enough to get heat, it's really hard to gauge the changes.
The big thing I haven't messed with yet is springs and shock angles.
-Mike
Rough setup:
Kit springs, assoc 40f/37.5r (it's possible I accidentally swapped shocka front to rear, though)
Medium links, Front 1mm in and out, rear 2mm in and 4mm out
FF .5 out, FR center, RF .5 up, RR .5 up
1mm ackerman
Front arms forward
4mm bump steer
-1.5 camber
A pinch of toe out front (eyeballed)
Front spool, rear 2000
Mazdaspeed 6
5.5 with boost
Before, the rear mounts were .5 out. I think .5 up is better, but I'm just not sure. Front sweep seems good. I first tried just the FF change. Then I took it out again after other changes (just to see). Then I added it back in with arms forward to try and isolate it more, and I don't think it was as good.
But the tires take long enough to get heat, it's really hard to gauge the changes.
The big thing I haven't messed with yet is springs and shock angles.
-Mike
Is the front of your body as low as possible? On those big tracks running fast it matters and can generate noticeably more steering if it's right on the deck.
Moving weight around can be a trade off. Move it back and the car should have better initial turn in but won't weight the front and turn well mid turn.