BMI's DB12R
11-27-2007, 07:14 PM
#3046
my car will be here tomorrow :^) for mounting flat what do i need exactally to get rid of bumpsteer, parts , build etc...thanx, also i read red spring opposed to the gold?the reason for this is? Thanx in advance,im looking forward to this car, i took it hands down over the rev.5, seems to be the better choice!
When you mount the servo flat, you will want to put the medium ballstuds on the steering blocks to lessen the bumpsteer. It is very difficult to completely eliminate it but having a slight bit will help keep the car smooth.
Thanks for the compliments on the car.
11-27-2007, 07:37 PM
#3048
The red spring work very well when the bite comes up. What it does is help keep the car flat and speeds up the weight transfer as needed for higher bite conditions. When the bite comes up you need the car to react faster to compensate. It makes the car smoothe again. The gold works very well in most track conditions.
When you mount the servo flat, you will want to put the medium ballstuds on the steering blocks to lessen the bumpsteer. It is very difficult to completely eliminate it but having a slight bit will help keep the car smooth.
Thanks for the compliments on the car.
When you mount the servo flat, you will want to put the medium ballstuds on the steering blocks to lessen the bumpsteer. It is very difficult to completely eliminate it but having a slight bit will help keep the car smooth.
Thanks for the compliments on the car.
11-27-2007, 11:03 PM
#3049
Here is my final setup from the FCC race 4
FRONT
.020 springs
-1.5 camber
4 deg caster
.5 deg toe in
10 deg upper arm mount
flat servo medium ball stud (black)
3.5mm front ride height
REAR
30wt shock oil
Windtunnel Silver spring (one pound heavier than gold)
1mm pod droop
black ball stud under front of shock
.068 flex plate
set screws in but not touching
batteries forward
4mm ride height rear
172mm rear width
15000 wt dampner fluid wind tunnel #4
SPeed 12 body
Jaco prizms front-Lilac 1.67 rear-yellow 1.75
sauce was handout jack the gripper
sauce full back inside half front
New cross brace
Proto chassis same as schreff
thats about it
FRONT
.020 springs
-1.5 camber
4 deg caster
.5 deg toe in
10 deg upper arm mount
flat servo medium ball stud (black)
3.5mm front ride height
REAR
30wt shock oil
Windtunnel Silver spring (one pound heavier than gold)
1mm pod droop
black ball stud under front of shock
.068 flex plate
set screws in but not touching
batteries forward
4mm ride height rear
172mm rear width
15000 wt dampner fluid wind tunnel #4
SPeed 12 body
Jaco prizms front-Lilac 1.67 rear-yellow 1.75
sauce was handout jack the gripper
sauce full back inside half front
New cross brace
Proto chassis same as schreff
thats about it
11-28-2007, 06:12 AM
#3050
Tri-State Hobbies & Raceway
3379 Dixie Hwy
Hamilton, Oh 45015
513-889-3954
here is a thread if you have any questions
http://www.rctech.net/forum/showthread.php?t=189693
It is a really nice format, saturday is open / controlled practice so you know how you stack up. Tri-state has the full lap counting system with practice mode that call out your lap times as you go. Plus there are some really fast competition. This is going to be a great time. We run paragon at the track.
PM me if you have any questions
11-28-2007, 07:38 AM
#3052
are these offered as a option im assuming<sorry new to 1/12th scale> and your car compliments itself!! i have it coming from your old neighboorhood it seems, sal and donnie from 360 track in babylon!thanx for the fAST reply's also i ordered the spacers for rims , and that option side brace, that should be part of the set-up as well for high grip.
11-28-2007, 01:08 PM
#3053
Building a good diff is EXTREMELY important. You want it as free as possible with no slip when you get on throttle. You never want the diff to slip. This is not a tuning option,it is a cover up for an off centered axle. You want your diff just tight enough that with a fresh pack and motor, it doesnt slip when you gun it. You want it to be extremely free also.
You can run your diff very loose with it and it just wont slip. Also your diff plates last forever. I build my diffs with ceramic balls and it's pretty much build it and forget it, even in mod.
11-28-2007, 01:25 PM
#3054
There is only one way to achieve this; Slapmaster thrust bearing. You can make your own too if you figure out how it works, but its so much easier and cheaper to get the original.
You can run your diff very loose with it and it just wont slip. Also your diff plates last forever. I build my diffs with ceramic balls and it's pretty much build it and forget it, even in mod.
You can run your diff very loose with it and it just wont slip. Also your diff plates last forever. I build my diffs with ceramic balls and it's pretty much build it and forget it, even in mod.
11-28-2007, 02:25 PM
#3055
11-28-2007, 05:36 PM
#3057
Here is my final setup from the FCC race 4
FRONT
.020 springs
-1.5 camber
4 deg caster
.5 deg toe in
10 deg upper arm mount
flat servo medium ball stud (black)
3.5mm front ride height
REAR
30wt shock oil
Windtunnel Silver spring (one pound heavier than gold)
1mm pod droop
black ball stud under front of shock
.068 flex plate
set screws in but not touching
batteries forward
4mm ride height rear
172mm rear width
15000 wt dampner fluid wind tunnel #4
SPeed 12 body
Jaco prizms front-Lilac 1.67 rear-yellow 1.75
sauce was handout jack the gripper
sauce full back inside half front
New cross brace
Proto chassis same as schreff
thats about it
FRONT
.020 springs
-1.5 camber
4 deg caster
.5 deg toe in
10 deg upper arm mount
flat servo medium ball stud (black)
3.5mm front ride height
REAR
30wt shock oil
Windtunnel Silver spring (one pound heavier than gold)
1mm pod droop
black ball stud under front of shock
.068 flex plate
set screws in but not touching
batteries forward
4mm ride height rear
172mm rear width
15000 wt dampner fluid wind tunnel #4
SPeed 12 body
Jaco prizms front-Lilac 1.67 rear-yellow 1.75
sauce was handout jack the gripper
sauce full back inside half front
New cross brace
Proto chassis same as schreff
thats about it
11-28-2007, 05:38 PM
#3058
11-28-2007, 05:39 PM
#3059
Hey Jason,
Cleveland was awesome. Craig's and Jason's cars looked awesome on the track. I saw alot of DB12R's there. My car was running good until the last round of practice, when my car glitched in the straight and when full speed head on to the barrier, and I broke the center pivot, split one of the side flex plates, split the lower pod plate, and split the side nerf wing. It was one heck of a crash. I had plenty of spares, but I didn't have the carbon fiber pieces. So I had to break out the CRC, which I thought was good, but even with all of my setup changes, the CRC still couldn't touch the DB12R. The DB12R had significantly more corner speed and handled the bumps better. Thank god my local track, 360 RC Speedway, had parts when I came home, so I stocked up like a bear hibernating. There is a big trophy race at 360 RC Speedway this weekend, so I will let you know how I do. I know the DB12R is really popular there, so if a bunch of us work on set-up, there could be a victory looming.
Cleveland was awesome. Craig's and Jason's cars looked awesome on the track. I saw alot of DB12R's there. My car was running good until the last round of practice, when my car glitched in the straight and when full speed head on to the barrier, and I broke the center pivot, split one of the side flex plates, split the lower pod plate, and split the side nerf wing. It was one heck of a crash. I had plenty of spares, but I didn't have the carbon fiber pieces. So I had to break out the CRC, which I thought was good, but even with all of my setup changes, the CRC still couldn't touch the DB12R. The DB12R had significantly more corner speed and handled the bumps better. Thank god my local track, 360 RC Speedway, had parts when I came home, so I stocked up like a bear hibernating.
There is a big trophy race at 360 RC Speedway this weekend, so I will let you know how I do. I know the DB12R is really popular there, so if a bunch of us work on set-up, there could be a victory looming.
11-28-2007, 05:43 PM
#3060
We have tested a few different chassis for different track conditions. Pretty much wheelbase adjustment to see if there is any room for improvement. We will always be testing and trying new things. Some will get released and some will be scrapped. I will always be developing new stuff to test to always have the upperhand. I will let you guys know when we come across parts that are showing improvements and release them immediately. The chassis that has been tested has not proven to be any better so far. It has its high points but also has some flaws. We will keep at it but i cant guarentee that the new chassis will see production unless it shows to be a good improvement.