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Tekno RC EB48.3 Thread

03-13-2017, 12:03 AM - Wikipost

R/C Tech ForumsThread Wiki: Tekno RC EB48.3 Thread

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Last edit by: MattDub

Welcome to the EB48.3 Wiki

What option parts should I consider buying with a new kit?
None are required but we recommend the following:

Springs:
Low Grip Track:
TKR8772 – Yellow Low Frequency Rear Springs and TKR8762 – Grey Low Frequency Front Springs

Low to Medium Grip Track:
TKR8773 – Orange Low Frequency Rear Springs and TKR8763 – Black Low Frequency Front Springs

Medium to High Grip Track:
TKR8774 - Red Low Frequency Rear Springs and TKR8764 - Pink Low Frequency Front Springs

TKR5199B – HRC Rear Hubs (L/R, CV or uni, EB/NB/ET/NT48/48.3) - Improves stability of the rear on mid to corner exit. Able to be on power earlier on corner exit.

TKR6146 - CNC Delrin Shock Cartridge Set

TiNi Shock Shafts
-TKR6017T (front)
-TKR6061T (rear)

This car is very durable. Here are the spare parts that I recommend you keep on hand:
TKR5020 – Hinge Pins (inner, front/rear)
TKR6061T – Rear Shock Shafts w/ TiNi Coating and TKR6017T – Front Shock Shafts w/ TiNi Coating
TKR5286 – Front Suspension Arms and TKR5184 – Rear Suspension Arms
TKR5194 – Spindle Carriers
TKR6009 – Shock O-Ring and Bladder Set (for 2 shocks)

Tips and Tricks

List of Vehicle Setup Adjustments and Build Tips can be found here. There are several videos and articles detailing the building of shocks, diffs, camber links, etc.

Page 3 Step K-3
Put the screw in upside down so that the head of the screw is in the hex spot that's molded into the spindle. This will aid in clearance in full droop / full steering.

Page 12 Step I-2
Use no less than 4 shims on the steering spindle to limit steering throw. I actually just use one 2mm ball stud washer from my 10th scale stuff since each shim is .5mm.

Setup Sheets:
Setup sheets for all Tekno RC vehicles can be found here.

Warranty Policy:
Tekno RC is the only company in the industry that will give 50% off of parts if returned to them using the General Warranty return policy found on their website. The parts can be lightly used or completely abused, as long as the part is still being produced it's covered!

Piston Drills:
Some of our setups recommend using pistons that are enlarged. For instance 4x1.9 or 3x2.0. To drill the pistons we recommend the following:
GMK Supply Piston Drill Set
16PC Metric Bit Set Metric Sizes 2.00 to 3.00 MM.

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08-03-2015, 05:23 PM

#166

HoldDaMayo

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Quick question about pistons, I for some reason decided to use the black pistons that came in the kit rather than the white 4x1.8 ones. Anyone guesses on how that has changed my EB48.3's suspension? I took it to the track the other day and found it to be really nice, but I'm curious how the handling would change if I swapped in the white 4x1.8 pistons.

08-03-2015, 07:47 PM

#167

CTDpower

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Got to say... Love this car so far! Haven't got a chance to run it (just finished building), but if it works as good as the build quality then I should be good to go. So far I like it far better than my RC8.2e FT. Check out my time lapse on youtube LOL (just search "eb48.3 timelapse")

Futaba servo didn't fit in the radio tray. After some trimming it drops right in. If anyone wants close up pics of that just ask. I get the rubbing on the body as well, but just barely. Rubbing from knuckles crews on a-arms at full droop (dremeled them off, problem solved). Other than that it was so perfect, can't wait to run it!

08-03-2015, 08:28 PM

#168

wraithperth

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Yeah I'm using the stock body and it rubs really bad and is affecting the rear shocks from operating smoothly. Might try and countersinc the holes on the mudguard. I just wish they made the mudguards to be mounted on top of the rear arm that way you can replace them also without having the issue of the inside screw being so close to the rear of the side pods . You would have to remove the side pods or take the rear arms apart to get good access to the screws. If you run Velcro around the body it makes it worse but I prefer Velcro to body pins that damage the body.

08-04-2015, 12:05 AM

#169

wraithperth

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Quote:

Originally Posted by CTDpower

Interesting about the Futaba servo I am about to replace my Savox with one in this car. As far as the car being perfect it definitely is one of the better 1/8 cars I have built but it seems a few small things have been overlooked in regards to design. It is a really tight chassis layout it seems to be designed to fit a tekin ESC and nothing else I am using a hobbywing 150amp esc and it just fits but not well and have cable tied the esc in to secure it so it dosent hit the centre shaft and had to cut a small notch in the side pod to allow the wires from the esc to not get crushed. I also noticed if you strap the battery in as instructed it actually pulls it so close to the centre shaft so I have added sponge to push the battery away and also swapped the straps around so that when you tighten the battery down it pulls it away from the centre shaft. And the issue of the screws on the steering turnbuckles rubbing on the arms at full droop just used shorter screws to remedy that. These are the things I noticed that needed some attention and some issues had the possibility of destroying equipment in my car. I raced the car on Astro last week and the car is really good jumps amazing but had to make lots of changes to get it to work on the high grip. The superlight I raced the week before and my lap times are faster with the superlight by quite a bit so interesting to see that and I raced it with box setup but it was monster trucking so went to kyosho springs and it was dialled. I TQ'd with the superlight but found it hard to hold the 4s buggies off the start line but once that was dealt with I had no problem leading all the 4s buggies even setting fastest lap of the day by .8 of a second. EB48.3 just not as agile in the tight infield but I feel the shock package is better so may look at adapting the eb48.3 shocks and towers and arms to the superlight just to see if there is any improvement. And dont even bother with the plastic servo horn definitely need the aluminium ones.

08-04-2015, 09:11 AM

#170

CTDpower

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Yep, futaba servo doesn't fit, or at least not the s9353 or whatever they call the full aluminum case servo. I called tekno because I saw that Lutz was using the same servo. They said sorry, no solution other than cutting. Cutting took some time but worked perfect and I doubt there was any structural loss there considering the aluminum brace on top and the entire servo is aluminum. Also the radio tray didn't fit to the holes in the chassis real well. The battery side mud guard fit perfect though. Seriously other than that everything else was just perfect.

08-04-2015, 09:28 AM

#171

snwchris

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Quote:

Originally Posted by home13oy75

I just purchased a used EB48.2. Can I slowly replace my existing parts to the new .3 - or does it all need to be changed at once to work?

Yes you can replace some of the parts, but are designed to work together, so you'll need to either order at once or in stages. and assemble at once.

I'm currently upgrading my .2 to a .3 and should have the rest of my parts this week. I'm actually going to post up for it on the old thread since its still a .2 as well. The list for the parts isn't really that bad price wise as well for whats needed.

08-04-2015, 01:00 PM

#172

Jpm1

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https://www.facebook.com/LeadfingerR...556859358378:0

This is a handy trick, especially the centre diff so the Spur runs perfectly square!

Cheers

08-04-2015, 03:09 PM

#173

Wease

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Conical piston position

Quick question, in the middle of my EB48.3 build and am going with the 6x1.6 pistons. On my .2 I put the 6x1.5 pistions in dome side down. I'm being told by a team driver that on the .3 I should be installing them dome side up. The reason I'm being given is that the longer shocks require more pack. Any input would be appreciated ASAP.

Thanks . . . Matt

08-04-2015, 03:19 PM

#174

Jpm1

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Quote:

Originally Posted by Wease

The 4 x 1.8 are built dome up, refer to the NB48.3 manual for the correct picture.

Cheers Justin

08-04-2015, 03:25 PM

#175

Wease

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Quote:

Originally Posted by Jpm1

The 4 x 1.8 are built dome up, refer to the NB48.3 manual for the correct picture.

Cheers Justin

Much appreciated! The EB48.3 manual doesn't refer to a position. On my .2 I always ran the 6x1.5 pistions dome down and they worked great.

08-04-2015, 03:34 PM

#176

CTDpower

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Looking for some shock advice as well. I'm a total rookie with tuning; pistons, fluid, springs, geometry, rebound, etc, too many variables lol.

What I am seeing on mine is the rear suspension is smooth and consistent all the way through the travel until it bottoms out on the table. The front is smooth and just before bottoming out it seems to get stiffer I guess, almost like it has bump stops or something?

My old rc8.2e is the same front and rear and will hit the table smooth and consistent through the travel on both ends. Now, having said that, I wasn't ever a huge fan of the rc8 so maybe my eb48.3 shocks are working exactly how they should be?

Other question is the springs on the tekno seem very short especially in the front. They are shorter than the associated springs but the tekno shocks are obviously longer. I guess once I set my droop and adjust for ride height then the springs are probably fine, but they just seem short?

08-04-2015, 05:20 PM

#177

CTDpower

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Ok, so further inspection revealed that it felt stiff just as it was bottoming out because that was it, the shocks were are bottoming out too ha. I guess my rc8.2 has more negative travel or whatever you call it.

So is this OK that the shock is bottoming out just as the chassis is or do you want some negative travel. May be easier on the shocks if the chassis is taking the hit vs the shock shaft?

08-04-2015, 07:01 PM

#178

lford

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Please elaborate on how the piston being positioned tapered side up would provide more pack, as every other tapered piston i have used has been flat side up to give more pack and quicker rebound speed. Thanx

08-04-2015, 11:45 PM

#179

blackshark3

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I have the same question about the shock piston. It is not clear on the manual which side should be up, and the piston on the drawing looks flat all the way. I am having troubles with the car traction rolling quite a lot, is that due to I put the flat side up?

08-05-2015, 06:19 AM

#180

MX304

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Quote:

Originally Posted by lford

They are supposed to be installed taper side up, which as you said, will reduce pack. When I originally built my car I had them in flat side up, then switched them to taper side up. The car worked well both ways but was better with the taper up. I also tried the 6X1.6 pistons. That didn't work nearly as well as the 4X1.8 for our track.

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