65LikesTC3 Forum
10-03-2001, 12:57 PM
#271
DAVID-
anybody correct me if i'm wrong, but try a motor with more torque and maybe gear up. if your track is tight and small, that gm3 maybe bogging down too much in the twisties. work on driving smoother. stop turning as soon as possible and let the car run sooner. acceleration is always better when not turning. have you "blueprinted" the drivetrain? blueprinting made quite a difference on my car. b4 it was just a tad slower than the faster guys, now it is a little faster than the same guys w/ no motor, gear, nor battery changes.
anybody correct me if i'm wrong, but try a motor with more torque and maybe gear up. if your track is tight and small, that gm3 maybe bogging down too much in the twisties. work on driving smoother. stop turning as soon as possible and let the car run sooner. acceleration is always better when not turning. have you "blueprinted" the drivetrain? blueprinting made quite a difference on my car. b4 it was just a tad slower than the faster guys, now it is a little faster than the same guys w/ no motor, gear, nor battery changes.
10-03-2001, 01:13 PM
#273
i run on a carpet track here in s.d. it is 60X40 w/ one straight down the 60' side. ave lap times are about 9 to 9.25 sec. in stock sedan. i am gearing down to 22/72. tight enough? last weekend i ran a 76spur w/ a 23 pinion. the car was just a bit faster. it was noticable though! you may even try gearing down a tooth or change your spur to get the equiv of half a tooth change in ratio. sometimes the acceleration is more important than the top end, especially on a very tight track.
10-03-2001, 01:43 PM
#274
Tony > Did you see my post about your tweak boards? Is that possible?
10-03-2001, 02:12 PM
#275
originally posted by JOHNNY RACER:
i picked up a 76 spur. ae says 75 is the biggest that'll fit, but i had no problem with the 76.
i picked up a 76 spur. ae says 75 is the biggest that'll fit, but i had no problem with the 76.
By the way, that is a tight track!
10-03-2001, 02:19 PM
#276
--turnNburn: the 78 just may fit too. there is still plenty of space between the bottom of the 76 and the bottom of the chassis hole.
i like where i am w/ the 76.
is airbrushing with faskolor or createx as durable as the pactra racing finish in can form? if not, how much of a difference is there?
i like where i am w/ the 76.
is airbrushing with faskolor or createx as durable as the pactra racing finish in can form? if not, how much of a difference is there?
10-04-2001, 10:37 AM
#279
I guess I missed what "blueprinting" is. Someone care to clue me in?
10-04-2001, 11:21 AM
#280
BLUEPRINTING
Here is the link for a good article on blueprinting.
http://www.chicagotc.freeservers.com/tc3help.htm
http://www.chicagotc.freeservers.com/tc3help.htm
Last edited by JOHNNY RACER; 10-04-2001 at 11:47 AM.
10-04-2001, 11:32 AM
#281
originally posted by JOHNNY RACER:
is airbrushing with faskolor or createx as durable as the pactra racing finish in can form? if not, how much of a difference is there?
is airbrushing with faskolor or createx as durable as the pactra racing finish in can form? if not, how much of a difference is there?
I use Pactra in the can for the final coat of my TC3 body (this is a TC3 thread, after all
). I do this for two reasons. One, the Pactra helps "seal" the paint job for me. Two, I always use either black or white, depending on the overall color of the car. For some reason, these two colors help repel dirt and foam dust from the underside of the body. a few brush strokes after a run and all that dust comes off easily. Don't ask me why... it just works.Durability hasn't been an issue for me with the Createx. The one thing that I have to advise though, is that it takes about two days for the paint to fully cure. Use it before then, and you will definitely have problems with the paint coming off of the body.
10-04-2001, 11:42 AM
#282
next question TNB. i have a paasche vl-1. i think you said b4 that 's what you use. if so, what needle, tip, and air pressure do you use? i assume the createx needs to be thinned, correct?
10-04-2001, 11:43 AM
#283
BTW Johnny, your hyperlink is messed up.
10-04-2001, 11:47 AM
#284
it should work now. thanks.
10-04-2001, 11:58 AM
#285
Johnny,
I typically use the #3, although I might go up to the #5 for my next body. As for PSI, I'm currently using 34 mostly because that's the max my compressor can put out. One of these days...
There's two things I do to the paint. First I add a few drops of the Createx Bond All agent... It helps the paint stick to the Lexan, but it's not ABSOLUTELY necessary (Actually, on the Impulse pictured in my Avatar, I forgot to add some to the white on the front of the car!
No problems so far, though). Next, I'll thin it out with water, a few drops at a time. By the way, always mix in a jar what you're going to use right away. Paint mixed with Bond All doesn't store very well.
Basically, you want to have the consistency of skim milk. A light texture, but you don't want it to look like water either. How much you need to add depends on the color. I've found that flourescents, white, and some pearl colors require the most thinning.
I typically use the #3, although I might go up to the #5 for my next body. As for PSI, I'm currently using 34 mostly because that's the max my compressor can put out. One of these days...
There's two things I do to the paint. First I add a few drops of the Createx Bond All agent... It helps the paint stick to the Lexan, but it's not ABSOLUTELY necessary (Actually, on the Impulse pictured in my Avatar, I forgot to add some to the white on the front of the car!
No problems so far, though). Next, I'll thin it out with water, a few drops at a time. By the way, always mix in a jar what you're going to use right away. Paint mixed with Bond All doesn't store very well.Basically, you want to have the consistency of skim milk. A light texture, but you don't want it to look like water either. How much you need to add depends on the color. I've found that flourescents, white, and some pearl colors require the most thinning.