BadSign

iTrader: (15)

Mike, that looks fantastic. Is ride height still adjusted at the steering knuckle kingpin?

NutDriver

iTrader: (30)

My solution wasn't as elegant, but easier. Mill a small channel out of the underside of the bulkhead and then drill a hole up from the bottom so that a small piece of carbon fiber/aluminum/whatever could be sandwiched between the chassis and the bulkhead and held in place with the screw. That's something that most anyone could do, even before Mike can get the molds changed.

wheelz

The front ride height is actually adjusted my lengthening or shortening the shock length like on a sedan or any other vehicle besides a 1/12th car or traditional f1 car. This allows you to change the spindle spacing and keep the same overall ride height Being able to adjust the spindle height with this front end is a huge advantage in changing the handling characteristics!

Aaron

EDWARD2003

iTrader: (8)

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uQySNo3oycc

Aerial footage of my local F1 and 1/12 track.

SpeedySST

iTrader: (6)

Im just thinking about how simple the F103 is. No side springs, one shock and some o-rings. Simple front suspension.

ixlr8nz

There may be a lot of innovative designs out there for pan cars, but realistically have any really made that much difference? Tyres are really the most important thing + weight distribution and wheel base.

CBear3

iTrader: (3)

Gorgeous, but I came back to my senses when I realized it would be $150 ($85 for upper arms, $65 for IFS). That's nearly the cost of my SP-1, lol.

I hope it's good, but not good enough to be a game changer if you catch my drift

IlikeF1

Yeah...to start from scratch it gets expensive, but a lot of us that run the F1R2 already have the upper arms, so the cost is more incremental. It hurts less when you spread the cost out over time. Also, the upper arms can be had in the U.S. for less than $40.

I ordered two.

OscarF1

What tires do I need?

This winter season on a large carpet track with medium grip.

and for the summer asfalt (tarmac) big high-speed track low grip.

Pit shimitsu
Ride
GRP
Tamiya
?

MikeR

iTrader: (15)

Thanks for the kind words!

The upper arm sets are less than $39 at most places.

IlikeF1

I run in similar conditions, and the following worked well for me:

Carpet: Pit 0571 front and 0572 Rear

Asphalt: Pit 0571 on the front, Ride R1 on the rear

OscarF1

Thanks!

are there rims that have your preference
Not for looks only performance.

IlikeF1

Not Really.....I run an Exotek F1R2 and the Tamiya Foam wheelsets have done fine for me (use the foam wheels for the Pit Shiz tires)

As for the Ride R1's, I have used both the preglued set of tires/wheels and bought the tires and wheels separately to glue them myself. Either way is fine, but the glue job on the preglued sets is hit and miss. Either way, I have found that I need to re-glue the sidewalls as they seems to crack easily, but they were still the best for my local track and conditions.

bigwavedave33

iTrader: (1212)

Any idea on what size and where one might find replacement screws and nuts for the tamiya rear wing? Those small ones that hold the sides to the center.

Also any good replacements for the top of the servo saver? I lost mine when I was looking for a screw to hold it down...

JayL

Wing screws:
Use Associated 4674, they have a hex head and work much better, I use them in all my wings