Hot Bodies Cyclone
01-08-2009, 02:59 AM
Tom
I have to admit you made me nervous, but no, I dissassembled the whole thing yesterday and it was assembled properly.
I degreased all the way down to the last thrust ball, reassembled with AE black grease and stealth lube... it still was slipping a bit too much for my taste, but it's much better now it's broken it. Saturday is raceday, we'll see how it becomes after a couple of packs.
A couple of things are still making me nervous
1- I used the alloy outdrives. Where the "flat" is machined to lock the diff ring, there is a little "lip" which still shows where the old "circle" used to be (hope this is clear enough). I tried to sand it down to guarantee a flat surface for the ring to press on, but to no avail... This means the pressure won't be the same all around the rings, which means the rings will wear out at that very spot. this sucks.
2- when used "by hand" once mounted in the car, the diff feels ok (not xray ok, mind you, this is still miles away from my old car's (FK05) diff quality) when the right wheel is turned, but a bit gritty once you turn the left one...
Any perspective from our expert team drivers?
Thanks folks,
Paul
I have to admit you made me nervous, but no, I dissassembled the whole thing yesterday and it was assembled properly.
I degreased all the way down to the last thrust ball, reassembled with AE black grease and stealth lube... it still was slipping a bit too much for my taste, but it's much better now it's broken it. Saturday is raceday, we'll see how it becomes after a couple of packs.
A couple of things are still making me nervous
1- I used the alloy outdrives. Where the "flat" is machined to lock the diff ring, there is a little "lip" which still shows where the old "circle" used to be (hope this is clear enough). I tried to sand it down to guarantee a flat surface for the ring to press on, but to no avail... This means the pressure won't be the same all around the rings, which means the rings will wear out at that very spot. this sucks.
2- when used "by hand" once mounted in the car, the diff feels ok (not xray ok, mind you, this is still miles away from my old car's (FK05) diff quality) when the right wheel is turned, but a bit gritty once you turn the left one...
Any perspective from our expert team drivers?
Thanks folks,
Paul
I normally empty all the diff balls into a plastic parts bag & stick a dollop of diff grease in there, mix it all around so the diff balls get nice and lubricated, then remove each ball with a hobby knife & place into the diff pulley.
With the thrust bearing, be sure to use lots of black grease.
Dont worry if it feels a bit notchy in your hands. Run a pack through it at the track & it should break in nicely. Make sure you check the tightness after the initial pack to make sure it isnt slipping.
01-08-2009, 05:29 AM
DHI 2008 SETUP
HI,
please someone have or know where find set-up sheet from DHI race of 2008?
I need to set my car for carpet+Rubber tire & 5 cells.
Thank you
please someone have or know where find set-up sheet from DHI race of 2008?
I need to set my car for carpet+Rubber tire & 5 cells.
Thank you
01-08-2009, 09:10 AM
Tech Adept
Hello all, I have a question about a tweeeeeeeek plate. How and what is the best way to use them its for the worlds edition
01-08-2009, 09:24 AM
Ver. 2 for Ver. 3 Spool
01-08-2009, 09:26 AM
01-08-2009, 09:53 AM
Thats really odd Lonestar (I just laughed a little on the inside thinking of the movie Spaceballs). Anyway, the pro diff has been the easiest diff I've ever built. Usually I go through and sand diff rings to make sure they are flat, but I never even had to touch the diff rings on the pro diff.
Did you by any chance try to build it with the POM outdrives that are supplied with it to see if the problem persists??? It might be you had a funky aluminum outdrives, even though I don't know of any current problems with them. I use the aluminum ones personally for foam tire carpet racing. Don't be afraid to use the POM outdrives either. I thought that were amazing as far as durability goes. I had 60 battery packs on mine with next to no wear. I just have the aluminum ones because they look pretty cool haha.
Too much grease can be a problem as well. I tend to just add a tiny bit in each of the diff ball holes in the pulley then drop the balls right in. I personally use Corally diff grease right now, since I have 8 bazzillion of them from my previous ride with Corally. If I use associated diff grease I use the silicone diff grease (has red colored text on the tube instead of black), or my personal favorite is schumacher diff grease. PACK the thrust with associated black grease or tamiya anti-wear grease.
Also, another thing most people don't think about is when compressing the diff spring, you MUST make sure you do it squarely. 9 times out of 10, pliers won't do it perfect. If you have a small vice, compress the spring in a vice. It will make the spring much truer, and remove a lot of the tight/loose syndrome that some people get in their diffs.
Hopefully that gives you some food for thought!
-Korey
Did you by any chance try to build it with the POM outdrives that are supplied with it to see if the problem persists??? It might be you had a funky aluminum outdrives, even though I don't know of any current problems with them. I use the aluminum ones personally for foam tire carpet racing. Don't be afraid to use the POM outdrives either. I thought that were amazing as far as durability goes. I had 60 battery packs on mine with next to no wear. I just have the aluminum ones because they look pretty cool haha.
Too much grease can be a problem as well. I tend to just add a tiny bit in each of the diff ball holes in the pulley then drop the balls right in. I personally use Corally diff grease right now, since I have 8 bazzillion of them from my previous ride with Corally. If I use associated diff grease I use the silicone diff grease (has red colored text on the tube instead of black), or my personal favorite is schumacher diff grease. PACK the thrust with associated black grease or tamiya anti-wear grease.
Also, another thing most people don't think about is when compressing the diff spring, you MUST make sure you do it squarely. 9 times out of 10, pliers won't do it perfect. If you have a small vice, compress the spring in a vice. It will make the spring much truer, and remove a lot of the tight/loose syndrome that some people get in their diffs.
Hopefully that gives you some food for thought!
-Korey
01-08-2009, 09:57 AM
Are we talking about something like this???
http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXRTZ9&P=7
Or this???
http://www.ppdbillet.com/hb_cyclone.html
The bottom one is really cool FYI. I have one and love it. Good way to make sure your chassis is completely flat before doing any suspension adjustments. Plus you don't have to have your buddy come over and press down on your shock towers while you tighten up top deck screws.
-Korey
01-08-2009, 10:09 AM
Tech Adept
that is the one that I have
01-08-2009, 03:23 PM
...
Last edited by LOSI123; 01-08-2009 at 03:49 PM.
01-08-2009, 05:18 PM
Tech Adept
the one one the bottom. OOps
01-09-2009, 05:39 AM
Just wondering
Hey all i have been looking at the cyclone s kit and my question is can this touring car be competitive?
Cheers George
Cheers George
01-09-2009, 10:35 AM
Yes, geometry is nearly identical. The car is made with softer plastic and has most of the same features, but the parts are made from lower quality materials to keep costs down. But, in general unless you can notice these fine details on the track, its a great deal.
01-09-2009, 02:20 PM
Cyclone gear chart
Revised Cyclone gear charts (added 17.5 ratios) 
01-09-2009, 04:42 PM
Does anybody know where I can get a new or used TC??????????
01-09-2009, 05:04 PM
