Hot Bodies TCX
04-18-2011, 04:15 PM
#2656
04-18-2011, 07:37 PM
#2657
Stock sway bar setting instruction manual discrepancy
What is the true "stock" sway bar setup?
I just found out a discrepancy in the manual. On page 24 and 25 it says to use black 1.4 mm front and copper 1.2 mm in the back.
On page 36, the standard setup sheet says black 1.4 mm in the front and silver 1.3 mm in the back.
Which is correct? And this is annoying...
I just found out a discrepancy in the manual. On page 24 and 25 it says to use black 1.4 mm front and copper 1.2 mm in the back.
On page 36, the standard setup sheet says black 1.4 mm in the front and silver 1.3 mm in the back.
Which is correct? And this is annoying...
04-20-2011, 06:53 PM
#2658
Could someone direct me to the Cyclone TC page please? I can't seem to find it...and I wouldn't be posting this if I didn't try really hard.
04-22-2011, 05:37 AM
#2660
Dual gear diffs???
Hi , could anyone advise the advantage or disadvantage of using oil filled gear diffs front and rear in the TCX
I am currently running spool front and rear spec-r gear diff in 17.5 boosted , and it's on rails but just needs a touch more off power steering .
Rgds
Scott
I am currently running spool front and rear spec-r gear diff in 17.5 boosted , and it's on rails but just needs a touch more off power steering .
Rgds
Scott
04-22-2011, 06:58 AM
#2661
Why Xray T3 knuckles vs HB alum knuckles?
I'm trying to find sturdier replacement parts for the super brittle 73507 knuckle hubs.
I read that the Xray T3 (or even T2) knuckles would work, but that I'd have to add some shimming and remove a 2mm spacer from the steering rack to achieve the same Ackermann.
So my question is, why don't I just go with the 67698 HB aluminum knuckles to begin with? I assume this would be a direct bolt on with no shimming necessary? My only reservation about using the HB aluminum knuckles is that if this is "unbreakable", then "something" else has to break down the line upon impact...like the steering or servo...
Thoughts?
I read that the Xray T3 (or even T2) knuckles would work, but that I'd have to add some shimming and remove a 2mm spacer from the steering rack to achieve the same Ackermann.
So my question is, why don't I just go with the 67698 HB aluminum knuckles to begin with? I assume this would be a direct bolt on with no shimming necessary? My only reservation about using the HB aluminum knuckles is that if this is "unbreakable", then "something" else has to break down the line upon impact...like the steering or servo...
Thoughts?
04-22-2011, 07:02 AM
#2662
I'm trying to find sturdier replacement parts for the super brittle 73507 knuckle hubs.
I read that the Xray T3 (or even T2) knuckles would work, but that I'd have to add some shimming and remove a 2mm spacer from the steering rack to achieve the same Ackermann.
So my question is, why don't I just go with the 67698 HB aluminum knuckles to begin with? I assume this would be a direct bolt on with no shimming necessary? My only reservation about using the HB aluminum knuckles is that if this is "unbreakable", then "something" else has to break down the line upon impact...like the steering or servo...
Thoughts?
I read that the Xray T3 (or even T2) knuckles would work, but that I'd have to add some shimming and remove a 2mm spacer from the steering rack to achieve the same Ackermann.
So my question is, why don't I just go with the 67698 HB aluminum knuckles to begin with? I assume this would be a direct bolt on with no shimming necessary? My only reservation about using the HB aluminum knuckles is that if this is "unbreakable", then "something" else has to break down the line upon impact...like the steering or servo...
Thoughts?
04-22-2011, 01:38 PM
#2664
I'm not so sure about the aluminum knuckles - any impact *may* cause them to bend, which will make the car behave strangely, and it may not be apparent that it's the knuckles causing the problem. If they bend at all, it may cause binding at the c-hub, which will lead to some pretty bizarre behavior when exiting corners (the car won't center properly).
At least with the plastic knuckles, you know when they're damaged. Yeah, it's not that great when they break, but at least you know when they're good, they're good.
Regarding the x-ray knuckles, I've switched over to them - they require a very small shim so they fit better in the c-hubs, but this is easily done with a bit of shoo-goo (a tiny amount), and you just stick the shim on. Makes it much easier to put the knuckle in
At least with the plastic knuckles, you know when they're damaged. Yeah, it's not that great when they break, but at least you know when they're good, they're good.
Regarding the x-ray knuckles, I've switched over to them - they require a very small shim so they fit better in the c-hubs, but this is easily done with a bit of shoo-goo (a tiny amount), and you just stick the shim on. Makes it much easier to put the knuckle in
04-22-2011, 11:22 PM
#2665
Tech Adept
Hi
Do any one know the difference between the stock motormount and bulkhead and the optional HD ones ??
Have seen Andy's setup from TITC , he use 650oil , but what brand ?? Do any one know that `??
Do any one drill a breathing hole in the top of the damper ???
Anything that you need as spare parts ??
Do any one know the difference between the stock motormount and bulkhead and the optional HD ones ??
Have seen Andy's setup from TITC , he use 650oil , but what brand ?? Do any one know that `??
Do any one drill a breathing hole in the top of the damper ???
Anything that you need as spare parts ??
04-23-2011, 02:01 AM
#2666
Hi
Do any one know the difference between the stock motormount and bulkhead and the optional HD ones ??
Have seen Andy's setup from TITC , he use 650oil , but what brand ?? Do any one know that `??
Do any one drill a breathing hole in the top of the damper ???
Anything that you need as spare parts ??
Do any one know the difference between the stock motormount and bulkhead and the optional HD ones ??
Have seen Andy's setup from TITC , he use 650oil , but what brand ?? Do any one know that `??
Do any one drill a breathing hole in the top of the damper ???
Anything that you need as spare parts ??
04-23-2011, 03:37 AM
#2667
Hi
Do any one know the difference between the stock motormount and bulkhead and the optional HD ones ??
Have seen Andy's setup from TITC , he use 650oil , but what brand ?? Do any one know that `??
Do any one drill a breathing hole in the top of the damper ???
Anything that you need as spare parts ??
Do any one know the difference between the stock motormount and bulkhead and the optional HD ones ??
Have seen Andy's setup from TITC , he use 650oil , but what brand ?? Do any one know that `??
Do any one drill a breathing hole in the top of the damper ???
Anything that you need as spare parts ??
04-23-2011, 06:59 AM
#2668
So a mate dremels 1.5 blocks so that we can run 1.5 fr pivot block and 1.5 ff block. However he had to dremel the ends aswell, not just the underneath for the belt, as with 4mm of ackerman and 1.5mm shims under the block the steeing turnbuckle ball joints hit the blocks... but just clear on load. Would a solution be to run a hub that creates the same ackerman angle with using less shims on the steering rack? Anyone else had this problem?
04-23-2011, 07:32 AM
#2669
So a mate dremels 1.5 blocks so that we can run 1.5 fr pivot block and 1.5 ff block. However he had to dremel the ends aswell, not just the underneath for the belt, as with 4mm of ackerman and 1.5mm shims under the block the steeing turnbuckle ball joints hit the blocks... but just clear on load. Would a solution be to run a hub that creates the same ackerman angle with using less shims on the steering rack? Anyone else had this problem?
04-23-2011, 07:46 AM
#2670