tobyzhang

iTrader: (15)

Your car feels very good indeed, R1 motor also very fast as well, but I think you need a new radio wheel foam, That foam feels like dried up bread now.

Simmi

Today I took the next step with my setup and ran a personal best time again.

I changed the camber to 2° front and rear, and the rear shock one high in the second hole.

Very nice driving, fast and very quick around the corner and straight out of the corner. I love my Tamiya and it rocks more and more

goin2drt

iTrader: (77)

I have a question.

I am running a Speed6 body on my 419. How low do you guys mount your body? I mean specifically on the posts. Obviously you can trim the bottom of the body so it does not rub but I am more interested on the posts. I was noticing that I am quite a bit above the front shock tower and could lower the body. I would need to cut the bottom but that would not be a problem. I would certainly have a lower CoG.

cplus

iTrader: (11)

Part number for those interested.

Juan Aveytia

The only time i measured my body height was at roar races where there is a tool to measure your roof height. In your case. Lower it as much as you can in the front then make the rear level to the front. Trim the body to the point where it doesnt' drag anywhere. Done

CW22

iTrader: (110)

Cplus,

Are those blue screws from HS a TI screws or alloy screw alum.?
Looks nice.

niznai

There are rules that apply locally so you might want to check that first.

Rule of thumb, your body should be as low as possible for obvious aerodynamic reasons, but you need to cut the bottom so you don't scrape the ground and don't diminish your ride height below what is allowed. The body is not allowed to be above the chassis line either, so you need to figure out body height first and then find the cut line at the bottom with the above rules in mind.

Sometimes rules specify which cut line you must use and I know some bodies come with these cut lines molded for various rule sets (e.g. PF used to have the cut line for BRCA and ROAR rules - a difference of about 1cm). If this is the case you have to work backwards, starting from the cut line allowed and working out where the body will sit on the posts from that.

I prefer to give the body a bit of rake if possible too, for that extra little bit of downforce, but you need to make sure the wing does not project above the roof line (ROAR rule). This is a fine adjustment after I figured out everything else and it's usually achieved by using small foam pads on the posts which gives say 1-2mm rake (as much as the distance between two consecutive body post clip holes allows).

Raman

iTrader: (94)

Where did you order it from? Link?

cplus

iTrader: (11)

the Blue are Aluminium.

direct from Hiro Seiko. they should be arriving at local dealers now.

BIBOY

iTrader: (4)

Building my 419

Did you guys have this issue the arms were a little tight and the suspension arms were no falling on their on weight ... Couple of things I noticed the shims provided were not exactly the correct thickness they were off (thicker) by as much as .07 to .03

My solution was I got a 1000 grit to take off material and 2000 grit sand paper to polish the shims and finally got to the correct thickness the arms are now free falling by its own weight

cplus

iTrader: (11)

That's normal.

Just what ever you do, don't ream the arms!

I keep different thickness shims (0.1/0.2/0.3) plus spacers (0.5mm-3.0mm) in my tool box, but sanding is equally fine - give the same result of minimal slop but free moving arms.

Qatmix

I would use smaller shims and not sand anything off the arms in future. As you are not going to have perfect symmetry left and right on the car. And as Cplus says, never ream the arms.

As an aside my 419 is pretty sweet. I took it for a race on friday the only 17.5 against 20 13.5's and finished 2nd only 5 seconds behind the leader. The car is phenomenal on corners, I had 1/12 guys saying it was like it was on foams

BIBOY

iTrader: (4)

I did not sand the arms I sanded the shims to the correct thickness

BIBOY

iTrader: (4)

Just sanded those shims to get the correct thickness ... The shims were off by a little the blue shims were ok the silver ones were off by .07 to .05 they were measuring to .57mm sanded them to .50 and free up the suspension

=FLIP=

iTrader: (24)

Ran my 419 on the weekend and love it.
Easy to drive and awesome to work on and fast.
really happy i went back to tamiya.

Ive driven it on carpet and now on asphalt and performs awesome on both surfaces . corner speed is great and smooth steering .Kit setup is good on both surfaces. i ran very close to kit.

Verry happy