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Old 07-13-2015, 01:46 PM
  #8461  
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Originally Posted by Frank Root
A few things to try:

Thinner oil in the rear diff than the front (the same oil front/rear is always too aggressive for me)
Try no sway bars - sounds crazy, but it got my truck from being on top of the track, to being "in the track".
Short Ackermann - this really smoothed out my steering high speed, especially in sweepers, but gave me more low speed mid-corner steering.
Thanks Frank, didnt think about trying to diff oils like that.
Also, a buddy of mine described my truck the same way as "being on top of the track" when he watched me run, funny you used the same description.
I recently just put the heavy sway bars on mine, I used to only run the rear sway, something I picked up on from the 1.0 to give it more steering.

I'll also look into the shorter ackerman, thanks again.
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Old 07-13-2015, 03:43 PM
  #8462  
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Originally Posted by DoogieLee
Anyone have a good, easy to drive setup? Something not as twitchy? I'm running the Dunford high bite and my rear end is loose and coming around. I am really looking for something less reactive. I havent been racing in a while and my nerves are getting the best of me, I just need to calm it down a bit.

A few things I tried yesterday were removing the rear chassis brace (i'm running the MIP's) and I swapped out the aluminum top plate for the stock plastic one.
I also used to negative expo on the steering.
Thanks in advance
Calm your azz down!

Joey told me to take a shot of tequila before my rounds.
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Old 07-13-2015, 04:03 PM
  #8463  
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A little OT, but since you asked on FB for any recommendation for TLR products and are here often, how about a TLR pit roller bag? Anything in the works?
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Old 07-13-2015, 09:04 PM
  #8464  
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Originally Posted by Dirtraycer
I guess turning period lol seems like the other scte's that I run with has a tighter turning radius and rotate better thru the corners than my truck does.
I suggest you check over the truck. Make sure the upper shock mounts are not too tight. Make sure the sway bars move freely. Check your steering end points. Have one of the faster guys check over your truck

Originally Posted by Bserious
Are the setups you TLR guys are using today including the new -3mm chassis?
As Frank already said a lot of the team is running it. Love it for indoor tracks I mostly run on.

Originally Posted by DoogieLee
Anyone have a good, easy to drive setup? Something not as twitchy? I'm running the Dunford high bite and my rear end is loose and coming around. I am really looking for something less reactive. I havent been racing in a while and my nerves are getting the best of me, I just need to calm it down a bit.

A few things I tried yesterday were removing the rear chassis brace (i'm running the MIP's) and I swapped out the aluminum top plate for the stock plastic one.
I also used to negative expo on the steering.
Thanks in advance
Kit setup or the OCRC setup should be good.

Originally Posted by DoogieLee
I forgot to mention that I did go from Suburbs (go to tire for that track) to HB Megabytes and then Blockades for the main. It helped some.

No, I havent tried either of those, thanks for the tip.
My next move was going to be taking it back to the box setup and go from there.
Seems like from your tire choice you are not running on high bite that setup is for. Kit setup or OCRC setup may be better starting points.
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Old 07-14-2015, 02:17 PM
  #8465  
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Tires to run at this track are Pressure Points, Bar Codes, Electrons or Dirtwebs.

I had a set of HB Beams that worked good and lasted a super long time. Now they're completely bald lol.
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Old 07-16-2015, 01:05 AM
  #8466  
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tore my truck apart to change the diff fluid in the front diff from 5K to 7k got to looking at everything else while I had it apart and both front inner hinge pins were bent . the one was bent so bad I had to use a pare of pliers to pull it thru the arm. I think I found my handling issue ....Well part of it any way lol
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Old 07-16-2015, 05:24 AM
  #8467  
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Originally Posted by Dirtraycer
tore my truck apart to change the diff fluid in the front diff from 5K to 7k got to looking at everything else while I had it apart and both front inner hinge pins were bent . the one was bent so bad I had to use a pare of pliers to pull it thru the arm. I think I found my handling issue ....Well part of it any way lol
Yikes! Yea any hung up suspension components will make the truck handle very poorly. Glad you found it and got it fixed!
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Old 07-20-2015, 02:33 AM
  #8468  
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Just checking if anyone on here races at Sparks Park and if so what oils are you running in your diff.'s I know Maddog does but haven't seen him around here in awhile. Was going thru my diff's for this upcoming race this weekend and was just checking what others were doing before I got to far into it.
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Old 07-20-2015, 10:27 AM
  #8469  
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Just wondering what body everyone is running these days on there SCTE.

thanks.
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Old 07-20-2015, 03:33 PM
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What size screws do I need to hold the motor mount to the motor? The 10mm ones are to long. Thanks...
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Old 07-20-2015, 03:41 PM
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Originally Posted by Whitey_Wangster
What size screws do I need to hold the motor mount to the motor? The 10mm ones are to long. Thanks...
Try 8mm then. That sounds more right anyway. You are talking the flat heat ones that attach the plate to the face to of the motor right?
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Old 07-20-2015, 03:57 PM
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Originally Posted by Casper
Try 8mm then. That sounds more right anyway. You are talking the flat heat ones that attach the plate to the face to of the motor right?
Yeah that's the ones I'll try 8mm. Thanks Casper..
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Old 07-20-2015, 06:49 PM
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so last week i noticed my steering lose a lot of it's throw. i'd be in a turn cranked all the way and it would understeer into the pipes. would the blue knob under the servo saver spring being too loose cause this?
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Old 07-20-2015, 08:26 PM
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Originally Posted by BMOC
so last week i noticed my steering lose a lot of it's throw. i'd be in a turn cranked all the way and it would understeer into the pipes. would the blue knob under the servo saver spring being too loose cause this?
I to had this same problem. And come to find out my servo saver had slipped back a lot. I had to thread lock the blue collar to get it to stop backing off. I would assume it works fine at first in the recommended position till it breaks in.
I also read somewhere in this thread that one of the pro's takes his all the way in and backs it off only a few turns, making it really tight.

Past that I have also ran into this issue from running a high voltage servo and not getting enough power from the ESC's BEC. A quick fix for that is to run a glitch buster to help with burst loads needed as the battery starts to drain down. But if you really want to solve that particular issue I would suggest disconnecting the red wire from the ESC's BEC input at the Rx side and buying yourself an external BEC you can solder directly to the battery input post, then just plug it into a spare channel on your Rx.
The CC adjustable regulator version should do the trick for HV or any power hungry servos like my futaba 9352 which likes it as high as 7.4v.
Here is a link to that>
castle-creations 10 amp adjustable bec
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Old 07-20-2015, 08:42 PM
  #8475  
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Originally Posted by Josh L
I to had this same problem. And come to find out my servo saver had slipped back a lot. I had to thread lock the blue collar to get it to stop backing off. I would assume it works fine at first in the recommended position till it breaks in.
I also read somewhere in this thread that one of the pro's takes his all the way in and backs it off only a few turns, making it really tight.

Past that I have also ran into this issue from running a high voltage servo and not getting enough power from the ESC's BEC. A quick fix for that is to run a glitch buster to help with burst loads needed as the battery starts to drain down. But if you really want to solve that particular issue I would suggest disconnecting the red wire from the ESC's BEC input at the Rx side and buying yourself an external BEC you can solder directly to the battery input post, then just plug it into a spare channel on your Rx.
The CC adjustable regulator version should do the trick for HV or any power hungry servos like my futaba 9352 which likes it as high as 7.4v.
Here is a link to that>
castle-creations 10 amp adjustable bec
gotcha. i think mine just unwound itself. i dont think i used loctite on this particular part. my rx8 bec is setup properly for the servo im using and it just started happening so dont think it would be a voltage issue. just gonna go ahead and throw some loctite on it see how it does
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