Corse-R

Ummmm,

This is the first time that happened to me on the six TC3 kits that I've own, but:

On my new FTTC3 I noticed some small weirdnesses, let's see:

The manual comes with some pages messed, for example, on the page 4 comes the 26 and in the 26 comes the 26. A quick download of the manual from the TA website fixed this at the first moment of opening the box.

Adjusting them on my Integy setup board I noticed that the rear end comes another time with assymetric rear A-Arm braces I've installed the R2-2 and the total measuring of toe-in is 3 degree on the left A-arm and 2 on the right arm (seeing them from rear). I quickly put in quarantyne the pieces that came with the kit and bolt another set from a previous car. Anyone has noticed this another time?

Uhmmmm if anyone of AE racers going by here (TPhalen, Greg, ...) can forward this post to anyone that should matter this can be of interest for them. I'm not claiming for new parts fortunately I had some spare parts, but any racers can have weird running and not knowing what see/what figure....

rcruv

Thanks for people who told me to buy BRP wide bumper, nerf wings.

On my first track day, my TC3 hit pretty hard in every direction and flipped about twice. No major damage thanks to wide bumer and nerf wings.

Small dust cover of rear diff broken and was sitting deep inside the diff.
Did this happened to anybody?

I just ordered full graphite compenent kit. Is it a good idea to replace plastic with graphite parts?

I noticed lots of scratch at the bottom of my plastic chassis, so I figured this plastic chassis wouldn't last long.

Side of long blue aluminum motor heat sink seems to touch drive shaft cup. Anybody had this problem?

Thanks for the info.

Modena AL

I've never had the small dust cover break.

Full graphite is a good weight saver when running stock. I dont think that scrathes will hurt the chassis too much.

My heat sink doesnt touch the drive cup. When I mount it i have the long fins facing to the outside of the car, and I rotate it so that the flat portion of the heat sink is next to the drive cup and the shaft. Its impossible for it to touch that way. (i can get pics if you need them)

Hope this helps

Modena AL

heres a pic of how my heat sink is mounted

Modena AL

and another...

rcruv

Thanks for the help.

I guess using 10t with 20t pinion made motor stay too close to drive shaft. I couldn't make perfect gear mesh other way.

I dremeled the heat sink to make it thinner where it touches drive shaft cup.

Thanks for the pics. That's the way I installed too.
It's just the flat side of heat sink touches the cup. No big deal now.

I looked at other people's pic and the heat sink was way off drive shaft. I mean about one inch off. I don't how he adjusted grear mesh that way.

rcruv

Has anybody used Duratrax teflon bearings for TC3?

They are selling them pretty cheap.
If they are ok, I'm gonna order them.

Associated bearings $99.99 vs. $29.99.

Since I bought graphite components kit, motor heat sink.

If I buy teflon sealed bearings, threaded shocks, titanium turnbuckles.

It's almost Factory team kit minus the weight of all other aluminum parts.

And aluminum input shafts, steering rack ball bearings, side by side packs would complete the weight saving and performance upgrade.

Is there any more way to reduce weight or increase performance?

Modena AL

Factory team uses teflon bearings...i believe.

Fred Hubbard

iTrader: (6)

Yes, the FTTC3 does come equipped with Teflon sealed bearings.

patcollins

The Duratrax bearings are good. I have had trouble with the rubber sealed bearings that come with the TC3 Racer and replaced with the Duratrax without any problems.

There isnt alot of weight reduction to do if you already have the composite outdrives. The biggest (and most overlooked) way to save weight is with your body, use as little paint as possible. It also helps to use lightweight electronics like a GM V12. Keep your wires short because copper wire is heavy.

Buda

Any using these? Idea sounds good as the need to rebuild shocks for different tracks is not needed but is the aplication of it done well? Are they smooth? Are they durable? etc

patcollins

The problem with externally adjustable shocks is that often the changes are too big to actually be useful.

Buda

I know this was mentioned just a bit ao has anyone downloaded it yet? Is it worth it and what all does it contain?

Impreza

Hey guys

I put the front one-way in my car, and for the first time ran it on Friday. I ended up breaking 2 CVD's, both of them snapped at the cup end, one the cup cracked right off and the other one it broke between one of the pin holes and the edge letting the pin come out.

Is this common for a one-way, or am I doing something wrong? Or did this just happen to be a coincedince?


Also, my motors in my TC3 seem to always run very hot. Last Friday my P2K2 with 27/69 gearing was running at about 220*F after a 5 min run. Is there anything I can do to get it to run cooler?

Thanks

Corse-R

Nope.... isn't just a coincidence: when you put one-way in front, you're putting a lot of stress on the CVD's, breaking them can be due to several reasons, but the most common is because you hit something and the car lifted their wheels (maybe a little, maybe a lot) and when they got traction, you were gotting full throttle.

If you plan to run one-way usually, It's better to buy some MIP shiny CD's for the front and let the blue ones when you put a ball diff in your front (I do this and works for me).