Schumacher Corner
11-10-2007, 02:03 PM
No matter what lube or how much clean my rear diff I can't get that super smooth feeling unless the diff is set to point where it allowewd to slip a little running all the stock parts from the first patch
Before starting think of diff building like cooking with chicken. The black thrust lube is the chicken and if you get it on the diff balls, rings or pulley your diff will get sick and DIE!
Before I start I clean EVERYTHING with motor spray.
Before I start I clean EVERYTHING with motor spray.
Before I start I clean EVERYTHING with motor spray.
1. If you havent gotten a U1954 Tungsten Carbide Thrust Bearing get one. Its better then the one inculded in the kit.
Clean it all out and use Schumacher Black Thrust lube. Measure the outside diameter of the thrust washers. The small diameter one goes on the screw first.
Go wash your hands and get every bit grease off your fingers.
2. Sand U2408 diff rings with 600 grit wet dry on both sides using motor spray to wet the paper until you see even scorring of the rings entire surface.
Clean them with motor spray and place them on a clean paper towel.
3. Toss the ceramic diff balls. The U2459 Tungsten Carbide diff balls are smoother and longer lasting. Place the balls on a clean paper towel and CAREFULLY spray them with motor spray to get rid of any protective oil that is on them. If you spray too hard you will launch $15 of diff ball all over you room and they will be gone forever. When they are clean and dry put them in the tub of U1301 Silicone diff grease. Pluck them out and place them in your diff pully. Thats all the grease you will need.
4. Gradually tighten up the diff untill one output starts to spin opposite the other one. Gradually tighten the diff a little then spinn it a little untill you feel the diff screw has colapsed the spring washers next to the thrust bearing and it dosen't want to turn anymore.
The goal is to tighten the diff but not pit your freshly sanded diff rings.
5. Loosen the diff 1/4 turn then lock down the grub screw on the opposite side.
6. Put the diff in your car and turn everyhting on. wit the car up on a car stand. Run the car at low throttle while alternatly touching each rear wheel untill it stops. Repeat this 2-3 time per side.
The diff should be super free, super smooth and should not slip at all.
If you diff slips just once during a race it will score your rings and it will be junk. You will have to rebuild it and flip, resand or replace the rings.
The U1954 thrust will last longer than yuor kit so it will never be the cause of diff problems. The U2459 ball will survive at least 6 months or more. The only things that go bad in a diff assembled with these parts as described are the rings and you can resand them several time before you need to replace them.
11-10-2007, 02:07 PM
I tipe gud.....
11-10-2007, 02:31 PM
IE Spell is a wonderful thing. Or better yet, Firefox. 
11-10-2007, 03:31 PM
Try this and let me know if it helps...
Before starting think of diff building like cooking with chicken. The black thrust lube is the chicken and if you get it on the diff balls, rings or pulley your diff will get sick and DIE!
Before I start I clean EVERYTHING with motor spray.
Before I start I clean EVERYTHING with motor spray.
Before I start I clean EVERYTHING with motor spray.
1. If you havent gotten a U1954 Tungsten Carbide Thrust Bearing get one. Its better then the one inculded in the kit.
Clean it all out and use Schumacher Black Thrust lube. Measure the outside diameter of the thrust washers. The small diameter one goes on the screw first.
Go wash your hands and get every bit grease off your fingers.
2. Sand U2408 diff rings with 600 grit wet dry on both sides using motor spray to wet the paper until you see even scorring of the rings entire surface.
Clean them with motor spray and place them on a clean paper towel.
3. Toss the ceramic diff balls. The U2459 Tungsten Carbide diff balls are smoother and longer lasting. Place the balls on a clean paper towel and CAREFULLY spray them with motor spray to get rid of any protective oil that is on them. If you spray too hard you will launch $15 of diff ball all over you room and they will be gone forever. When they are clean and dry put them in the tub of U1301 Silicone diff grease. Pluck them out and place them in your diff pully. Thats all the grease you will need.
4. Gradually tighten up the diff untill one output starts to spin opposite the other one. Gradually tighten the diff a little then spinn it a little untill you feel the diff screw has colapsed the spring washers next to the thrust bearing and it dosen't want to turn anymore.
The goal is to tighten the diff but not pit your freshly sanded diff rings.
5. Loosen the diff 1/4 turn then lock down the grub screw on the opposite side.
6. Put the diff in your car and turn everyhting on. wit the car up on a car stand. Run the car at low throttle while alternatly touching each rear wheel untill it stops. Repeat this 2-3 time per side.
The diff should be super free, super smooth and should not slip at all.
If you diff slips just once during a race it will score your rings and it will be junk. You will have to rebuild it and flip, resand or replace the rings.
The U1954 thrust will last longer than yuor kit so it will never be the cause of diff problems. The U2459 ball will survive at least 6 months or more. The only things that go bad in a diff assembled with these parts as described are the rings and you can resand them several time before you need to replace them.
Before starting think of diff building like cooking with chicken. The black thrust lube is the chicken and if you get it on the diff balls, rings or pulley your diff will get sick and DIE!
Before I start I clean EVERYTHING with motor spray.
Before I start I clean EVERYTHING with motor spray.
Before I start I clean EVERYTHING with motor spray.
1. If you havent gotten a U1954 Tungsten Carbide Thrust Bearing get one. Its better then the one inculded in the kit.
Clean it all out and use Schumacher Black Thrust lube. Measure the outside diameter of the thrust washers. The small diameter one goes on the screw first.
Go wash your hands and get every bit grease off your fingers.
2. Sand U2408 diff rings with 600 grit wet dry on both sides using motor spray to wet the paper until you see even scorring of the rings entire surface.
Clean them with motor spray and place them on a clean paper towel.
3. Toss the ceramic diff balls. The U2459 Tungsten Carbide diff balls are smoother and longer lasting. Place the balls on a clean paper towel and CAREFULLY spray them with motor spray to get rid of any protective oil that is on them. If you spray too hard you will launch $15 of diff ball all over you room and they will be gone forever. When they are clean and dry put them in the tub of U1301 Silicone diff grease. Pluck them out and place them in your diff pully. Thats all the grease you will need.
4. Gradually tighten up the diff untill one output starts to spin opposite the other one. Gradually tighten the diff a little then spinn it a little untill you feel the diff screw has colapsed the spring washers next to the thrust bearing and it dosen't want to turn anymore.
The goal is to tighten the diff but not pit your freshly sanded diff rings.
5. Loosen the diff 1/4 turn then lock down the grub screw on the opposite side.
6. Put the diff in your car and turn everyhting on. wit the car up on a car stand. Run the car at low throttle while alternatly touching each rear wheel untill it stops. Repeat this 2-3 time per side.
The diff should be super free, super smooth and should not slip at all.
If you diff slips just once during a race it will score your rings and it will be junk. You will have to rebuild it and flip, resand or replace the rings.
The U1954 thrust will last longer than yuor kit so it will never be the cause of diff problems. The U2459 ball will survive at least 6 months or more. The only things that go bad in a diff assembled with these parts as described are the rings and you can resand them several time before you need to replace them.
11-10-2007, 05:15 PM
part# for lw bunkheads
?
?
11-10-2007, 05:29 PM
11-10-2007, 06:04 PM
11-10-2007, 06:18 PM
11-10-2007, 06:55 PM
Try this and let me know if it helps...
Before starting think of diff building like cooking with chicken. The black thrust lube is the chicken and if you get it on the diff balls, rings or pulley your diff will get sick and DIE!
Before I start I clean EVERYTHING with motor spray.
Before I start I clean EVERYTHING with motor spray.
Before I start I clean EVERYTHING with motor spray.
1. If you havent gotten a U1954 Tungsten Carbide Thrust Bearing get one. Its better then the one inculded in the kit.
Clean it all out and use Schumacher Black Thrust lube. Measure the outside diameter of the thrust washers. The small diameter one goes on the screw first.
Go wash your hands and get every bit grease off your fingers.
2. Sand U2408 diff rings with 600 grit wet dry on both sides using motor spray to wet the paper until you see even scorring of the rings entire surface.
Clean them with motor spray and place them on a clean paper towel.
3. Toss the ceramic diff balls. The U2459 Tungsten Carbide diff balls are smoother and longer lasting. Place the balls on a clean paper towel and CAREFULLY spray them with motor spray to get rid of any protective oil that is on them. If you spray too hard you will launch $15 of diff ball all over you room and they will be gone forever. When they are clean and dry put them in the tub of U1301 Silicone diff grease. Pluck them out and place them in your diff pully. Thats all the grease you will need.
4. Gradually tighten up the diff untill one output starts to spin opposite the other one. Gradually tighten the diff a little then spinn it a little untill you feel the diff screw has colapsed the spring washers next to the thrust bearing and it dosen't want to turn anymore.
The goal is to tighten the diff but not pit your freshly sanded diff rings.
5. Loosen the diff 1/4 turn then lock down the grub screw on the opposite side.
6. Put the diff in your car and turn everyhting on. wit the car up on a car stand. Run the car at low throttle while alternatly touching each rear wheel untill it stops. Repeat this 2-3 time per side.
The diff should be super free, super smooth and should not slip at all.
If you diff slips just once during a race it will score your rings and it will be junk. You will have to rebuild it and flip, resand or replace the rings.
The U1954 thrust will last longer than yuor kit so it will never be the cause of diff problems. The U2459 ball will survive at least 6 months or more. The only things that go bad in a diff assembled with these parts as described are the rings and you can resand them several time before you need to replace them.
Before starting think of diff building like cooking with chicken. The black thrust lube is the chicken and if you get it on the diff balls, rings or pulley your diff will get sick and DIE!
Before I start I clean EVERYTHING with motor spray.
Before I start I clean EVERYTHING with motor spray.
Before I start I clean EVERYTHING with motor spray.
1. If you havent gotten a U1954 Tungsten Carbide Thrust Bearing get one. Its better then the one inculded in the kit.
Clean it all out and use Schumacher Black Thrust lube. Measure the outside diameter of the thrust washers. The small diameter one goes on the screw first.
Go wash your hands and get every bit grease off your fingers.
2. Sand U2408 diff rings with 600 grit wet dry on both sides using motor spray to wet the paper until you see even scorring of the rings entire surface.
Clean them with motor spray and place them on a clean paper towel.
3. Toss the ceramic diff balls. The U2459 Tungsten Carbide diff balls are smoother and longer lasting. Place the balls on a clean paper towel and CAREFULLY spray them with motor spray to get rid of any protective oil that is on them. If you spray too hard you will launch $15 of diff ball all over you room and they will be gone forever. When they are clean and dry put them in the tub of U1301 Silicone diff grease. Pluck them out and place them in your diff pully. Thats all the grease you will need.
4. Gradually tighten up the diff untill one output starts to spin opposite the other one. Gradually tighten the diff a little then spinn it a little untill you feel the diff screw has colapsed the spring washers next to the thrust bearing and it dosen't want to turn anymore.
The goal is to tighten the diff but not pit your freshly sanded diff rings.
5. Loosen the diff 1/4 turn then lock down the grub screw on the opposite side.
6. Put the diff in your car and turn everyhting on. wit the car up on a car stand. Run the car at low throttle while alternatly touching each rear wheel untill it stops. Repeat this 2-3 time per side.
The diff should be super free, super smooth and should not slip at all.
If you diff slips just once during a race it will score your rings and it will be junk. You will have to rebuild it and flip, resand or replace the rings.
The U1954 thrust will last longer than yuor kit so it will never be the cause of diff problems. The U2459 ball will survive at least 6 months or more. The only things that go bad in a diff assembled with these parts as described are the rings and you can resand them several time before you need to replace them.
I agree 100% with this method.
11-10-2007, 07:34 PM
Ran the Schuie tonight on carpet at the Region #2 indoor champs. I qualified 7th and finished 7th. I was 3rd and gave up the spot for 4th for about 3 minutes and then was taken out. I fought my way back up to 7th and thats how it all ended. The car was DIALED!! I could pick my line every lap. Truely a great car for carpet 
11-11-2007, 04:23 AM
well done mate...
do you run rubbers or foams?
do you run rubbers or foams?
11-11-2007, 06:23 AM
I run both. That car is great either way. This meeting was foams on carpet.
11-11-2007, 06:40 AM
Hi dudes
I usually use Lrp vtec 27r ,this time want to go for sorex 24r but not sure about sorex tyres...
what are your thoughts about sorex 24r tyres...are they as good as Lrp tyres???
Many thanx in advanced
I usually use Lrp vtec 27r ,this time want to go for sorex 24r but not sure about sorex tyres...
what are your thoughts about sorex 24r tyres...are they as good as Lrp tyres???
Many thanx in advanced
11-11-2007, 06:45 AM
Big Features, nice run this weekend I think I'll be making that call on Tuesday...
11-11-2007, 07:06 AM
i heard a lot about new parts for the mi3 in the past few weeks. they said that the parts work really well but they also said that they can't promise me that these parts will be released.
what new parts will be released for the mi3??