9LikesT.O.P. Racing "Photon" 1/10 EP Touring Car
11-10-2010, 12:40 PM
#6211
If you guys look at my setup I am not using the Longest position on the Optional camber link plate. I do not like that long link at all. It makes the car feel super lazy to me and feels like it takes away steering.
I run the middle hole on the optional plate. If you put the optional plate on top of the stock plate and look at them you will see that the middle hole on the optional plate is directly in between the middle and inside hole on the stock plate.
Running this position in the front and the middle hole on the stock plate in the rear with the shimming I have on the bulkheads for the width It gives me almost perfectly equal camber link lenghts front and rear. To me this makes the car roll very evenly thought the entire corner while maintaing a balance of rear traction and steering.
This is just how I feel it may not work for everyone.
Like OD said I run the Stiff lipo chassis that comes with the car now. I have been using the stock rubber topdeck as well this whole season. And my car has been the best it has ever on carpet the last couple of weeks.
I run the middle hole on the optional plate. If you put the optional plate on top of the stock plate and look at them you will see that the middle hole on the optional plate is directly in between the middle and inside hole on the stock plate.
Running this position in the front and the middle hole on the stock plate in the rear with the shimming I have on the bulkheads for the width It gives me almost perfectly equal camber link lenghts front and rear. To me this makes the car roll very evenly thought the entire corner while maintaing a balance of rear traction and steering.
This is just how I feel it may not work for everyone.
Like OD said I run the Stiff lipo chassis that comes with the car now. I have been using the stock rubber topdeck as well this whole season. And my car has been the best it has ever on carpet the last couple of weeks.
11-10-2010, 01:26 PM
#6212
I think the long link is something good to try. Its good to experiment.
Some of the best drivers I know hate it, and told me so..but laptimes were better and more consistent for me this way in general. I think it could depend also on other aspects of set up, but mostly driving style. Perhaps might have been done first by Masami, he's pretty quick !
Usually you prefer your own car to someone else's even when they are quicker than you
Some of the best drivers I know hate it, and told me so..but laptimes were better and more consistent for me this way in general. I think it could depend also on other aspects of set up, but mostly driving style. Perhaps might have been done first by Masami, he's pretty quick !
Usually you prefer your own car to someone else's even when they are quicker than you
11-10-2010, 07:02 PM
#6213
I wanted to take a second to share some videos with everyone. They are of some very special dogs doing something very unique. They are practicing for an upcoming event to benefit the Henry Wrinkles Foundation. If you like what you see PLEASE forward the links to everyone you know.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MkXoD583A14
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jssiWt2Jyx4
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NEOx2hSf-Es
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MkXoD583A14
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jssiWt2Jyx4
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NEOx2hSf-Es
11-11-2010, 01:08 AM
#6214
Tech Adept
GOT MYSELF A PHOTON - PARTS ADVICE
I have got myself a Photon - got it second hand for 132 - the person who had it before me had one arm the wrong way round to the other side, shims in one side that's not the same on the other side 
I think the last owner gave up after one run as the car is unmared.
Now I have a few questions:
1. How can I tell if I have a v1 or v2 shock?
2. are any parts interchangeable with other cars - in particular are the steering arms interchangeable with TAmiya ones
3. IS the Lipo chassis a worthy upgrade?
4. should I flip the belt on the current chassis?
5. to stiffen the car up shall I just get the US Foam parts - (I am running indoor rubber set up)
tips will be appreciated
Lohan
I think the last owner gave up after one run as the car is unmared.
Now I have a few questions:
1. How can I tell if I have a v1 or v2 shock?
2. are any parts interchangeable with other cars - in particular are the steering arms interchangeable with TAmiya ones
3. IS the Lipo chassis a worthy upgrade?
4. should I flip the belt on the current chassis?
5. to stiffen the car up shall I just get the US Foam parts - (I am running indoor rubber set up)
tips will be appreciated
Lohan
11-11-2010, 01:43 AM
#6215
Now I have a few questions:
1. How can I tell if I have a v1 or v2 shock?
2. are any parts interchangeable with other cars - in particular are the steering arms interchangeable with TAmiya ones
3. IS the Lipo chassis a worthy upgrade?
4. should I flip the belt on the current chassis?
5. to stiffen the car up shall I just get the US Foam parts - (I am running indoor rubber set up)
tips will be appreciated
Lohan
1. How can I tell if I have a v1 or v2 shock?
2. are any parts interchangeable with other cars - in particular are the steering arms interchangeable with TAmiya ones
3. IS the Lipo chassis a worthy upgrade?
4. should I flip the belt on the current chassis?
5. to stiffen the car up shall I just get the US Foam parts - (I am running indoor rubber set up)
tips will be appreciated
Lohan
A few rough answers...
1. If you open up the bottom seal on the shock and the parts are black it is probably a v1.
2. I don't think its worth going down that route. Any change will have knock on effects down the line. The car can be made to work just fine with TOP parts.
3. I still run 6-cell chassis (with a custom-made LiPo tray, although it isn't even necessary). Haven't tried the dedicated LiPo chassis.
4. If it will allow you to, yes - although it sounds like you have the standard 6-cell chassis, so flipping the belts requires some Dremel work - not worth it in my opinion because the balance gains from flipping the belts are small, and the risk of weakening the chassis is slightly higher.
5. Indoor rubber with the 6-cell chassis - go with the rubber medium top deck. All the other parts rubber kit. That should be stiff enough.
11-11-2010, 03:10 AM
#6216
Tech Adept
Hi
Hi Sosidge
I was only asking about interchangeable parts, coz if I did damage anything at a track without the Top part, I could use another part. In addition to that I see Top do that thing Yokomo used to do - ie. a rear hub carrier, and front steering arm together, instead of pairs of steering arms
When you say the shock seal - do you mean the top of the shock, or the bottom. I am told their were problems with the v1 - how does one resolve it if one has a v1. I must say that the shocks do feel perfectly smooth to me!
Lohan
I was only asking about interchangeable parts, coz if I did damage anything at a track without the Top part, I could use another part. In addition to that I see Top do that thing Yokomo used to do - ie. a rear hub carrier, and front steering arm together, instead of pairs of steering arms
When you say the shock seal - do you mean the top of the shock, or the bottom. I am told their were problems with the v1 - how does one resolve it if one has a v1. I must say that the shocks do feel perfectly smooth to me!
Lohan
11-11-2010, 03:41 AM
#6217
Hi Sosidge
I was only asking about interchangeable parts, coz if I did damage anything at a track without the Top part, I could use another part. In addition to that I see Top do that thing Yokomo used to do - ie. a rear hub carrier, and front steering arm together, instead of pairs of steering arms
When you say the shock seal - do you mean the top of the shock, or the bottom. I am told their were problems with the v1 - how does one resolve it if one has a v1. I must say that the shocks do feel perfectly smooth to me!
Lohan
I was only asking about interchangeable parts, coz if I did damage anything at a track without the Top part, I could use another part. In addition to that I see Top do that thing Yokomo used to do - ie. a rear hub carrier, and front steering arm together, instead of pairs of steering arms
When you say the shock seal - do you mean the top of the shock, or the bottom. I am told their were problems with the v1 - how does one resolve it if one has a v1. I must say that the shocks do feel perfectly smooth to me!
Lohan
I think the v1 shocks are fine also. I mean the bottom of the shock. You can buy the newer white shaft guides if you feel the shock needs updating. I should confess that my Photon Shocks have Tamiya seals, shafts and pistons in them though...
11-11-2010, 05:31 AM
#6218
Tech Adept
Cheers
Thanks for the help m8
I am using it tonight, and am curious as to how it's gonna be when I take it for a spin. I had a tired 008 thyat was nice to drive, I also sold an mi4lp (hated it). I used a cyclone for 2 years before that.
I hate 'car hopping' and much prefer trying new parts/options until I feel happy!
I will report back, and thanks for the help once more.
Lohan
I am using it tonight, and am curious as to how it's gonna be when I take it for a spin. I had a tired 008 thyat was nice to drive, I also sold an mi4lp (hated it). I used a cyclone for 2 years before that.
I hate 'car hopping' and much prefer trying new parts/options until I feel happy!
I will report back, and thanks for the help once more.
Lohan
11-11-2010, 04:04 PM
#6219
Here is my most recent setup. It works very well. Our bite was really high this week and there was zero worry of traction rolling while many other cars were.
I suggest if you are going to try the setup please do the whole thing exactly how it is listed. Putting half a setup on is not trying the setup.
Change your shock orings to the 40 degree ones and put fresh ones in when do this setup. Its very important to have perfect working shocks for this setup to work good.
I would suggest reading my shock building tutorial on Hanulecs Wiki.
I suggest if you are going to try the setup please do the whole thing exactly how it is listed. Putting half a setup on is not trying the setup.
Change your shock orings to the 40 degree ones and put fresh ones in when do this setup. Its very important to have perfect working shocks for this setup to work good.
I would suggest reading my shock building tutorial on Hanulecs Wiki.
11-11-2010, 05:16 PM
#6222
The current car if bought int he USA comes with an extra set of plastics.
It comes with the chassis I am running. It comes with the new shocks.
I would really only suggest you "need" the optional camber plates and all the Rubber springs 393,367,324,289.
The car pretty much comes with everything needed.
I have been liking the optional machined 1.2 pistons recently also. But that is not needed to be fast.
It comes with the chassis I am running. It comes with the new shocks.
I would really only suggest you "need" the optional camber plates and all the Rubber springs 393,367,324,289.
The car pretty much comes with everything needed.
I have been liking the optional machined 1.2 pistons recently also. But that is not needed to be fast.
11-12-2010, 08:50 AM
#6225
Hey guys, I broke a front steering knuckle on my photon and took it apart. somehow I lost a kingpin collar. I bought this car used so I have a bunch of spares. However, some parts look different then other and some kingpin collars do not fit on the front C hub.
Can someone give me an idea of what parts I should get to redo the front end, so its modern to todays parts? Thanks!
Can someone give me an idea of what parts I should get to redo the front end, so its modern to todays parts? Thanks!