sidecarphil1

iTrader: (1)

this is my M05 , running 0 timing mode and a 13.5 SPv3 motor

BLOOOOOODY quick , with the 3racing fast gears in it (we have a 60m straight )

monkeyracing

iTrader: (10)

Rear hub carriers, with the exception of some odd ones made for the M-05 fit across the board.

The lower suspension arms are very strong and fit everything. Don't be tempted to replace them with alloy bits. It's not worth it.

The rest of the crossover parts (M-06 specific):
- Gears and gear shafts, axles, driveshafts, wheels tires, etc
- Gear diff and TA03 ball diff fit all
- M-05 and up diffs use larger bearing, will only fit 05 and 06
- Front uprights and C hubs from M-03R onwards to M-06
- All the steering gear/arms/etc crossover from M-05 to 06, just don't mix brands

That's all the important stuff. Enjoy.

cheapskate.brok

iTrader: (10)

I have the M06 gear diff on the way, to be installed on my M05. And after referring here;

http://www.rctech.net/forum/9429808-post15278.html

It seems the stock bearings won't fit. What's the required size? What about shims, are they required?

Thanks

monkeyracing

iTrader: (10)

The bearings are 10 x 15 x 4. Pretty common. Here's the assembly manual. No shims required.

In other news, we ran the Orca Q Spark 2200kv combos at the club for the first time last night. About 3/4 of the field was brushless, the other 1/4 was silver can. The cars ran pretty much neck and neck on the back straight, but the BL pulled much harder out of the corners, especially in the RWD cars. We're very happy with our choice so far and believe this will be a great thing for the mini class.

evilancer

My car has the M05 ball diff installed in it at the moment, and the diff outdrives are showing quite a bit of wear, I bought the car used and don't know how much run time is even on it. I'm wondering if I can buy the replacement outdrives for it? It feels like it is due for a rebuild anyways, when I rotate the front wheels it feels gritty.

Jon

sosidge

You can't buy the alloy ones as a spare, but you can buy the steel ones intended for the M-05Ra as a spare (#54238).

The alloy M-05 diff is intended for use with blades on the driveshafts which should minimise wear - are they present? They are also available as a spare (#53890).

caltek1

iTrader: (38)

This is the latest body I have been using on my S-Spec MO5. It is made by Blitz and is for the SWB mini.

I ran this last night and is very stable and has good steering. The car was very easy to drive and did not wander. I believe the body is more stable than the Colt Suzuki Swift SWB body I had been using.

The body does not get pushed out by the battery leads, if you use deans plug batteries and the wheel arches allow you to run 60D size tyre with no interference.

The other good point with the body is they are cheaper than a Tamiya body. Yes I know some are bound by rules, however might help those that race in non TCS events.

Anyway, just thought I would pass on my results.

later,

Calvin.

Jay_P

Do you think Tamiya will release the 'exclusive to the S Spec' parts (Motor plate and the rear supension mount) as seperate hop ups?

caltek1

iTrader: (38)

Eventually. Just not sure how long that will take. It would be nice, if you broke the front carbon shock tower that you can replace it. I took mine off and fitted a 3Racing carbon fibre shock tower. Mostly so i could test the Monster Mini shell, however I am happy with the Volvo with the bowling hat in the back.

Later,

Calvin.

evilancer

Thanks for part numbers, that helped me out alot.

No the blades aren't on the ends of the shafts, and unfortunetly this is why the outdrives are so worn and need replacing now.

Are the diff balls available seperatly from Tamiya? I have heard of people putting ceramic balls in the diff, where do you get these from and what size are they? Do they last alot longer than the steel ones before the diff gets that gritty feeling?

Jon

sosidge

The M-05 ball diff uses 3mm diameter balls. Tamiya make them in various flavours, other manufacturers do them too. With Tamiya's own balls you are guaranteed a quality product which is not something you can say for every manufacturer.

Many people choose ceramic balls these days, personally I have never had an issue with good-quality steel balls, and I would actually choose Tungsten Carbide over ceramic. But that's just me.

Bear in mind that the thrust race is just as important as the main balls in getting a smooth diff, as is the cleanliness of the parts before greasing and assembly. I would always use plenty of black grease on the thrust and a smear of a thick silicone grease on the balls - Tamiya's own standard grease is rather thin, I use Much-More greases myself.

Granpa

Would have agreed with you until I tried using quality ceramic diff balls. The diffs go much longer before needing a rebuild and don't need replacement. Actually are much cheaper in the long run. I've seen "cheapies" advertized, but would advise using those from R1Wurks or Acer racing. These are available from Speedtech or directly from Acer.

Have no experience with the Muchmore greases, but most TCS racers use Tamiya's antiwear grease. Not saying it's better, only that it works well and is in the kit.

MatsNorway

Is this battery a fit in a M03/5?
http://www.rcmart.com/catalog/rc-bat...l?cPath=52_973

And does this one
http://www.rcmart.com/catalog/rc-tl0...u-p-23077.html

Go well with these
http://www.rcmart.com/catalog/rc-tl0...th=595_744_707

?

rc-mini.net guys.... keep it up. Cheers from Norway!

tony gray

iTrader: (7)

Mats,

that battery is the one that most of us use - it's perfect.

The light-weight king pins will only work with the original front end components, they will NOT work with those alloy knuckles that you've picked as they're later model ones

silvalis

iTrader: (29)

I've already broken mine