Tamiya TRF417
#1622
#1624
Tech Champion
iTrader: (4)
Bear in mind though that the additive procedure I'm using is not exactly standard. Don't wipe the tires, just apply 10mins before the run, then hit the track with them still wet. No warmers either. Honestly, if I could get away without running additive I would, but with the tyre hardness (36), it's needed to get them working right from the start.
Regards
Ed
#1625
FX2 is the least aggressive I've run so far... T-Cube was ok, and LRP carpet 2 (yes, carpet on asphalt) was waaaaay too aggressive. I've also tried Tweak, MR, and CS, and FX2 still comes out the best.
Bear in mind though that the additive procedure I'm using is not exactly standard. Don't wipe the tires, just apply 10mins before the run, then hit the track with them still wet. No warmers either. Honestly, if I could get away without running additive I would, but with the tyre hardness (36), it's needed to get them working right from the start.
Regards
Ed
Bear in mind though that the additive procedure I'm using is not exactly standard. Don't wipe the tires, just apply 10mins before the run, then hit the track with them still wet. No warmers either. Honestly, if I could get away without running additive I would, but with the tyre hardness (36), it's needed to get them working right from the start.
Regards
Ed
#1626
Tech Addict
#1627
Tech Champion
iTrader: (4)
Warming works to an extent, but the grip is just that much higher than anything else I've run on, bar the TITC track, that it just isn't needed in combination with the right additive schedule. Pretty much like a carpet track really...
#1628
Tech Master
Little bit random, but I got my titanium turnbuckles today (TRF official ones) and they look green not blue! Anyone else had that? Or are they greeny blue nowadays? (looks aweful on the car.. Shallow I know)
#1632
Tech Lord
iTrader: (32)
It's a very nice car, and has the predictable, stable feel on the track the Tamiya sometimes lacks. But right now, it's slower. I'm going to put some time in trying out some other setup ideas next week.
In the meantime, the 417 is behaving well enough if I make it push a little and steer with some throttle/brake.
In the meantime, the 417 is behaving well enough if I make it push a little and steer with some throttle/brake.
#1633
Tech Champion
iTrader: (4)
Split suspension mount brace
So, as in one of my previous posts, I thought I'd try making up a brace to match the stiffness of the one-piece suspension mounts, when using the split suspension mounts.
Thankfully I had a damaged 417 chassis plate that I could use, and cut a thin strip of carbon from it (making it orientated longitudinally for stiffness), drilling a couple of holes using a one-piece mount as a guide. Then using some longer screws on the inner positions, a couple of 0.5mm spacers for belt clearance, bolted it all together.
Only other thing I did was sand some of the corners slightly to a curve, so as to not touch the block and introduce tweak into the chassis.
It's a bit rough and ready, but should do the trick to try and see if I can feel any difference next time out If it works well enough, I'll make one up for the rear of the car as well. I should mention that it does make changing the roll centres a bit of a pain, as you need to use on the flat tamiya nut wrenches to undo the bolts without taking the bulkheads off (they block a nut driver getting in).
Also attaching a picture of my car from last weekend
Thankfully I had a damaged 417 chassis plate that I could use, and cut a thin strip of carbon from it (making it orientated longitudinally for stiffness), drilling a couple of holes using a one-piece mount as a guide. Then using some longer screws on the inner positions, a couple of 0.5mm spacers for belt clearance, bolted it all together.
Only other thing I did was sand some of the corners slightly to a curve, so as to not touch the block and introduce tweak into the chassis.
It's a bit rough and ready, but should do the trick to try and see if I can feel any difference next time out If it works well enough, I'll make one up for the rear of the car as well. I should mention that it does make changing the roll centres a bit of a pain, as you need to use on the flat tamiya nut wrenches to undo the bolts without taking the bulkheads off (they block a nut driver getting in).
Also attaching a picture of my car from last weekend
#1634
Tech Master
Tryhard - the brace looks interesting. I think 3 racing make carbon suspension block parts(they come with their alum blocks) so people could use them instead if having to source and cut carbon.
Be interesting to see how it performs.
Last edited by Qatmix; 06-22-2011 at 11:28 PM.