pakk

iTrader: (80)

When I assembled my car, I don't remember putting any type of lube on my kingpin. As I go back to the directions, I confirm this, and don't see anything about it.

But as I look through setup sheets, I see it mentioned.

Do you just apply a thin coat of shock fluid to the kingpin? For those of you with 10r5's, do you do it the same way to that car?

hotdognobun

iTrader: (32)

Yokomo Brace for sale on thread

thunderdaddy

How much?

hotdognobun

iTrader: (32)

$35.00

hotdognobun

iTrader: (32)

Just Sold it

spring71

iTrader: (3)

Hi, racers.

New carpet track just opened in Chino California.

90'X45' CRC Carpet, perfect for 1/12 scale

Visit www.tqrcracing.com for more information.

halfempty

Question on adjusting the ackerman : Would no spacers equal more steering? Using all spacers equal less? Or do i have this all wrong?

Maybell

iTrader: (2)

Congrats Juho on the big win!

Serzoni

iTrader: (13)

Just built up a new R5.1 (coming from a BMI DB12R), and I'm having a problem with the rear end of the car sliding out on-power.

• I've checked the car for tweak and adjusted the side springs accordingly.
• I've replaced the side springs.
• My diff is butter smooth (and I tried running it both tight and loose.. same problem)
• My front end is not binding anywhere that I could find
• Tires are equal diameter left and right
• Car's weight is pretty much balanced left to right (I can balance it on balance buttons)
• The pod moves freely in all directions

We're racing on asphalt that's treated with sugar water, and at low throttle the car is fine, but anywhere above 1/4 throttle and the rear end just sweeps out from under the car and it spins. I've never had any other 12th scale do this and it's frustrating as hell. It almost has me wishing I hadn't switched rides. Any suggestions?

Maybell

iTrader: (2)

How free is your pod? The rear pod balls should be as free as the steering ball cups on the ball studs. What tire size stagger are you running? I know you are frustrated, but remember that this car is the world champ, and on asphalt. There is obviously something wrong that can be fixed. I will help dial you in, even if we have to talk on the phone to figure this out.

Serzoni

iTrader: (13)

Don't get me wrong.. I didn't mean to come across like it might have seemed (sorry). When I originally bought my BMI, it was a decision between it and this car. Due to having practically a lifetime's supply of parts for the oldschool front end and the BMI being developed primarily for asphalt, it won in the decision back then. Just weeks later the original R5 won the worlds on asphalt and I was shaking my head with a big "doh!". Now I've moved back to AE and just wanting to get this thing sorted. I know it's a new car and has quirks to work out, but going from a car that was totally planted to one that I can't even get down the main straight with is pretty frustrating, as I'm sure you can imagine. Anyways..

I'll have to check my tire diameters when I get home, but sitting on the bench my chassis rides level with the racing surface, so there's no rake. The center chassis pivot ball is VERY free (I tightened the two socket screws until the heads just bottomed out on the socket), and for the side links they're somewhat free, but not as free as a ballcup/balljoint. When I was putting the screws into the side link, I just screwed them in until the heads were touching the link just as I did on the center football. There's no slop in them, but they definitely aren't as free as you mentioned. I remember on my old CRC carpet knife that they were that free, but on that car the links WERE ballcups/joints.


Other than this one frustrating issue, I'm already in love with the car (the spacious rear pod and the new front end especially).

Maybell

iTrader: (2)

I agree, the front end is such a cool design. It sounds like your pod is free enough. You can squeeze the side link ends with pliers to create a little slop and this frees them up even more. How much side-spring preload are you running. Check out post #2193 of this tread for tips on setting the preload. I am very interested in what tires and tire sizes you have on your car, so please get back to me on that. What front reactive angle are you running? I recommend starting with 5 or maybe zero.

Serzoni

iTrader: (13)

Just got home from work, so here's the final setup I ended up trying on the car before I packed up and called it a day-

Front End
Springs-.020"
20k diff fluid on the kingpins
10 degrees reactive caster
3.25 degrees of static caster
-1.5 degrees of camber
0 degrees of toe
large ackerman spacer on servo mounts
no bumpsteer spacers
6mm ride height
162 mm width
Parma Pro 38 Purple @ 45mm diameter

Rear End
25wt center shock oil
Silver center spring
20wt side shock oil
green side springs
1.5 turns of preload once the springs touched the side links
center shock mount - top hole in front, and stock spacer under rear ballcup
2mm droop (over ride-height method)
6mm ride height
172mm width
Parma Pro 38 Magenta @ 47.25mm diameter

Electronics
Futaba 9650 servo
4-cell GTB (replacing with a Tekin RS this week)
Speedzone 5000mah 50c lipo
Battery forward
Novak SS 10.5
gearing - 35/88

Maybell

iTrader: (2)

Your setup looks pretty good. The next time you go to the track, try 5 degree reactive and pink rear tires. Try 1mm of pod droop. I like to make the width of my car 1mm wider on all 4 corners. In other words, shim the front lower arms 1mm wider, and use 1mm worth of extra shims on each side of the rear axle. The thing is, my setup is based on the offset of Jaco Prism wheels...you may want to consider going to Prisms or Parma Blackhawks. That would make life easier.

Jsaves

iTrader: (4)

Maybell,
What kind of rebound to center should a person expect when checking tweak on a tweak station? Should a person expect the bubble to return to center when you push one side of the tweak bar and then push down on the center spring connection to the rear pod? I am wondering if I am expecting to much or do I have a binding issue.
Thanks for your reply and time
God Bless