Hot Bodies TCXX
#2058
Is anybody using the Arrowmax "Let down" shocks towers?
http://www.arrowmax-rc.com/index.php...roducts_id=959
http://www.arrowmax-rc.com/index.php...roducts_id=960
What length must the shocks have with these? 60mm?
http://www.arrowmax-rc.com/index.php...roducts_id=959
http://www.arrowmax-rc.com/index.php...roducts_id=960
What length must the shocks have with these? 60mm?
#2061
#2062
Tech Fanatic
#2063
Wow, I wasn't aware that these categories were running so heavy cars!
My car would be more adapted for european 13.5 blinky series which accept 1350g...
Have you an idea why they are asking for these weights? What is the interest with slow motors?
My car would be more adapted for european 13.5 blinky series which accept 1350g...
Have you an idea why they are asking for these weights? What is the interest with slow motors?
#2064
Sorry for bringing up an old topic, but I'm searching for a floatable servo mount from Roche or RC9394 (obviously for the TCXX), does someone has one who is willing to sell it to me?
Thanks!
Thanks!
#2066
#2068
Tech Fanatic
I guess some of us are still running the TCXX. I was wondering why one of my TCXXs was always slower than the other no matter what class I ran it in (either USGT or VTA). I think I found the answer. I've being playing with front diffs lately and found the front diff in one didn't spin freely (same thing with the spool - I just never noticed it before). I spent an hour or so finding out why the diff didn't spin freely (without the belts) and found that the front bulk heads were too close together. I also noticed that the spur gear was slightly ajar in the bulkheads. Bottom line I took the front end apart, swapped the bulkheads left to right and reassembled the front end and the now diff spins freely plus the spur gear is better aligned - no or at lest much less parasitic drag in the drive train. I checked my other car and it was OK. So now hopefully I have two fast TCXXs. This simple fix saved me a trip to a machine shop to mill off a few thousandth off each bulk head.
Probably most of you do this already but I now assemble my car with the wheels on tight (wheels bind if too tight) with no belts and spin the wheels, and the center pully to make sure there is no drag. Put the belts on but no pinion and roll the car to again check to parasitic drag.
Probably most of you do this already but I now assemble my car with the wheels on tight (wheels bind if too tight) with no belts and spin the wheels, and the center pully to make sure there is no drag. Put the belts on but no pinion and roll the car to again check to parasitic drag.
#2069
Tech Fanatic
#2070
Tech Champion
iTrader: (30)
I guess some of us are still running the TCXX. I was wondering why one of my TCXXs was always slower than the other no matter what class I ran it in (either USGT or VTA). I think I found the answer. I've being playing with front diffs lately and found the front diff in one didn't spin freely (same thing with the spool - I just never noticed it before). I spent an hour or so finding out why the diff didn't spin freely (without the belts) and found that the front bulk heads were too close together. I also noticed that the spur gear was slightly ajar in the bulkheads. Bottom line I took the front end apart, swapped the bulkheads left to right and reassembled the front end and the now diff spins freely plus the spur gear is better aligned - no or at lest much less parasitic drag in the drive train. I checked my other car and it was OK. So now hopefully I have two fast TCXXs. This simple fix saved me a trip to a machine shop to mill off a few thousandth off each bulk head.
Probably most of you do this already but I now assemble my car with the wheels on tight (wheels bind if too tight) with no belts and spin the wheels, and the center pully to make sure there is no drag. Put the belts on but no pinion and roll the car to again check to parasitic drag.
Probably most of you do this already but I now assemble my car with the wheels on tight (wheels bind if too tight) with no belts and spin the wheels, and the center pully to make sure there is no drag. Put the belts on but no pinion and roll the car to again check to parasitic drag.
glad to hear you tracked down that issue - issues like that suck, especially when it doesn't make sense and you need to go over piece by piece to find it..
i always spin my belts/diffs when i'm building cars - just makes more sense to me