84 GT 5.0

iTrader: (26)

if i wanted the 3.0 layout thought i would need the chassis? or i could just bolt on a 2.0 conversion?

MikeMAN987

iTrader: (6)

Hey Guys,

Long time lurker but I have recently built an 8IGHT E 3.0 and raced it the past few weekends (after being out of the hobby for 10+ years) and its a sweeet ride!

Any thoughts on my suspension? It doesn't really have any rebound when i push the chassis down...it just stays there. I'm thinking I didn't fill up the shocks all the way or I have some air in them?

Regards,
Mike

pballer2777

iTrader: (28)

can someone tell me how long of a sensor wire is needed for this car?

Ben Burtle

iTrader: (10)

Casper,

Are you running the T8i on a larger track? Or a small track?

I was advised not to run on a larger track with them. I really don't need all the power of the regular units.

Casper

iTrader: (34)

Servo mount. Battery tray, The center diff mounts are different. Front and rear towers are different but you can use the nitro ones. Side guards. Body

I am sure I missed a few details that go with things like the battery try straps, chassis pads different screws ect.

Casper

iTrader: (34)

Check that your sway bars are free and you did not over tighten the upper shock mounts. Also are your shock collars set for proper ride height. Take the shocks off and make sure the arms fall freely and then install the shocks making sure the upper shock cap wiggles on the bushing.

Long! 250mm+ is safe.

We primarily run on 10th scale tracks. OCRC is 130X64 (or close to that) so not a "small" track but not 8th scale large as well. We ran it out at palm desert which is an 8th scale size track and although I am not sure I would actually recommend it due to the layout not having any really long straights it worked quite good. Key here is light car. If you run on a large track and don't want all the power you can always go for the T8 Gen2 1700 and have something better for a large track but a little more tame. The T8i is for a light weight more nimble setup. If you are running big batteries on a large track a little extra weight on the car for a bumpy track may not be a bad thing. The T8i was not to take away power but it is a little smoother but weighs less got get a more agile car for tighter indoor tracks.

old carpet rcr

I just finished making my own conversion to a true E 3.0. The E chassis comes with the battery foam, so dont buy extra. Battery tray comes with the extra foam for shifting the battery around, the radio box set comes with the center diff plate and wire holder, motor mount, chassis brace set, shock pistons for the five hole. The bigger sway bars came in your nitro kit. Shock towers if you didnt already modify the nitro ones. Side guards, body, E rear center drive shaft. Use the rear nitro for the front on the E buggy. Get the dedicated screws for the battery tray and the side guards, also you'll need the metric screws for mounting the motor to the motor mount. I think that should do it.

old carpet rcr

Can anyone suggest a sensor cable. It's new to me, never ran sensored before. I plan on running a Tekin setup, if it matters.

aaron_buran

Casper and Hacker,

Where are you get the lightweight hardware from?

Also when your running the lighter package what oil and spring are you running?

Deacon_8T

iTrader: (2)

U mean converting from a 8 3.0 over to a true 8 3.0e?

Casper

iTrader: (34)

TLR makes alum nuts.
http://www.tlracing.com/Products/Def...ProdID=TLR6311
You can also use some of the screws from the SCTE titanium hardware kit although not all of them will work.

8ight E-3.0 vs using the 2.0 electric conversion kit to convert an 8ight 3.0.

1000rrstunna

iTrader: (44)

Ill have my kit tomorrow my friend Gary picked it up at horizon today and overnighted it to me I'm pumped also picked up a t8i 1900 and a gen2 esc

chicky03

iTrader: (1)

Check and make sure where your front shock tower mounts isn't broken. It makes the shock angle back and they don't move freely anymore.

jhautz

iTrader: (86)

Thanks for posting this. You guys just saved me a lot of head scratching. My 8e 3.0 kit had a bent dog bone for the front center. I called customer support and they had a replacement out to me in a matter of 2 days, so two thumbs up for customer support!! But the bone they sent me was the 242001 as it was listed in the manual. Its about a half inch shorter than the one that came in the kit. I was going to ask this question on here, but you guys already answered my question!! Just called customer support again and they are getting the right 242002 bone sent out for me now.

Ryan, make sure you get whatever the customer service guys use for reference updated with the correct part number. Even they are confused. LOL.

hacker07

iTrader: (13)

Thanks and yeah, we are getting what is online updated already as well.