litespeed-dom

iTrader: (4)

Well, I tore mine down last night and found out my carb broke too. It's the fiberglass collar on the bottom barrell, it's all cracked and such. I don't recall taking the carb out at all since the first day I got the motor.... Oh well, at least you can get that collar from Tower for $11 + shipping instead of $50 for the whole carb!!!

Dom

THE DOCTOR

iTrader: (15)

That's good news. Do you know the part number to order it from tower?

I called them up and ordered some. Thanks that really saved me for this weekend.

THE DOCTOR

iTrader: (15)

Yea, you need to watch them. I had second place rapped-up at the regionals 45 min. main with 7 min. to go and the carb sleeve broke and the carb came out so I had to drop out.

johnhsp

iTrader: (18)

anyone try zeppin racing12TZ3 Dark Force ceramic engine,http://rc-mushroom.com/product_info....ts_id=10549,is that good,compare to murnan & os speed which one better

robert maestrey

that looks like a nice os...also you can purchase crank, p-sleeve and other parts unlike the speed os

robert maestrey

dom that also happen to me the thermo insulator was cracked I think its caused by the heat and when they tighten the carb retainer nut it just fails after a while no big deal...

litespeed-dom

iTrader: (4)

I'm sure the insulator is a good idea to isolate heat, but the carb retainer actually pinches it down. I mean when you tigten the carb down, how "much" exactly do you tighten it down without cracking it?

Dom

THE DOCTOR

iTrader: (15)

I think that is the $20,000 question.

Dynamite

well, dont go to lightly on it like me fearing the same problem of cracking the insulator and have the nut vibrate off... i tighened it firm then about a quatre more to be firm/tight and it vibrated off... i do it up tight now and have a crack on insulator but i seal it all anyway so its not really an issue.

nut is 3.5mm if anyone wants to know, took me a while to find a replacement here too lol

Z00M

iTrader: (15)

Just do what the book says!

Do nut up until it is 'finger tight' and then rotate nut 60 degrees more. I've done it this way every time and it hasn't been a problem.

I rechecked it after the first 2 tanks to ensure any change in tolerance due to heat cycling was taken up.

Cheers,

Mike.

THE DOCTOR

iTrader: (15)

Yea someone told me to use locktite on the nut when I installed it.

robert maestrey

well the first time it was cracked i found it after servicing engine.....carb was already mounted from factory....when reinstalled I just tightened down on retainer until carb was fixed and would not move.....did not use any loctite....im not very worried about the insulator they are pretty cheap and easy to replace .....every once and a while..

litespeed-dom

iTrader: (4)

Hey Robert, got my sleeve today in the mail. The instruction says to use an epoxy to glue the sleeve onto the carb. What kind of epoxy did you use?

Dom

THE DOCTOR

iTrader: (15)

I was wondering the same thing? I think that JB weld might be to perminant. I am going to try some 15 min. epoxy that I have.

thunderbt3

iTrader: (14)

Weird problem:

I was cleaning my car the other day and took the air filter off. I noticed the carb was all the way shut. Not even the normal slight crack in order it to idle. I finished cleaning the car and installed the engine, started it and sat there idling fine. I bliped the throttle and everything sounds normal. When I open the carb to a slight crack, the engine is running too fast. The idle screw does work as normal. I checked the carb for leaks and cracks on the insulator and nothing. Checked the o-rings on the carb restrictor and they were fine.

Any suggestions?