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Old 04-08-2008, 05:54 AM
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I just raan the 1st 3 tanks in my 720. red dot w/ 2607 pipe. What is a operating temp. for this engine? I'm heading to the track this weekend for the 1st time with it.
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Old 04-08-2008, 06:12 AM
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Originally Posted by gearhead13
Really? I am supposed to stretch that little thing over that?
I guess I will head to the hobby shop and try to find some other exhaust mount spring to fit, I broke the old one. I put a straight wire as the exhaust mount for now, at least it will keep the pipe from hitting the front side pulley.
I had a problem with the picco springs also. Had a nasty accident involving a spring and my thumb one day at the track. Since then I've been using .21 springs and haven't had an issue.
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Old 04-08-2008, 09:39 AM
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Originally Posted by SRW141
I just raan the 1st 3 tanks in my 720. red dot w/ 2607 pipe. What is a operating temp. for this engine? I'm heading to the track this weekend for the 1st time with it.
It depends on what type fuel you are using, also depends on the days Temp, Humidity, and altitude, normally I don't temp tune an engine, I will run the engine with a good trail of smoke coming out of the exhaust while producing good power, now when you are satisfied with the power then that is where you temp your engine and remember that temp, then use that as a reference in tuning your engine. keep in mind that different engines runs different temps.
The above tip is based on running the engine really hard.
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Old 04-08-2008, 09:45 AM
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Just got my JL Red Dot last week and will start to break it in. Is there anything different that I should do as far as breaking it in?
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Old 04-08-2008, 10:18 AM
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Originally Posted by Team Kamikaze
It depends on what type fuel you are using, also depends on the days Temp, Humidity, and altitude, normally I don't temp tune an engine, I will run the engine with a good trail of smoke coming out of the exhaust while producing good power, now when you are satisfied with the power then that is where you temp your engine and remember that temp, then use that as a reference in tuning your engine. keep in mind that different engines runs different temps.
The above tip is based on running the engine really hard.
Thanks for the info. I will be racing at 301 Raceway. I use Byron 30% fuel. I'm breaking the engine in as DJ posted on nitrokb.com. I had to richen the high end 2 turns (past factory setting) to keep it below 300 for the 1st 3 tanks at WOT. I've heard this engine runs hotter than most.
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Old 04-08-2008, 11:43 AM
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Originally Posted by SRW141
Thanks for the info. I will be racing at 301 Raceway. I use Byron 30% fuel. I'm breaking the engine in as DJ posted on nitrokb.com. I had to richen the high end 2 turns (past factory setting) to keep it below 300 for the 1st 3 tanks at WOT. I've heard this engine runs hotter than most.
When breaking in the JL EVO 3 engine all you need is one tank at idle just to break in the connecting rod, on the the second tank you can already race tune the engine, don't have to do the WOT, it is not necessary for JL EVO 3 engine, you do the WOT only if it is a Nova Rossi.

Last edited by Team Kamikaze; 04-09-2008 at 12:50 PM. Reason: To clarify which engine I am referring to.
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Old 04-08-2008, 12:16 PM
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Originally Posted by Team Kamikaze
When breaking in the JL all you need is one tank at idle just to break in the connecting rod, on the the second tank you can already race tune the engine, don't have to do the WOT, it is not necessary for JL engines, you do the WOT only if it is a Nova Rossi.
Thank you for the information. I did not know if I needed to treat this engine like a Novarossi as far as break-in was concerned.
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Old 04-09-2008, 12:33 PM
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Originally Posted by Team Kamikaze
Just do the traditional First tank on Idle, then let it cool down with the piston on the bottom, 2nd tank half throttle with a very rich setting, then immediately go to the third tank on full throttle with the same very rich setting, do this for 3 to 4 tanks then start running it on the track leaning it out 1 hour at a time for each tank until race tuned.
?????? Huh??
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Old 04-09-2008, 12:47 PM
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Originally Posted by rankev11
?????? Huh??
That break-in procedure was for the "OLD" JL EVO 2 engine, with the new JL EVO 3 engine a lot of things have changed, that is what you called continued development to further improve the performance of the product.
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Old 04-09-2008, 01:09 PM
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Opps, I used this method with the evo 3. Do you think I caused any damage? So far I haven't ran it at the track due to our last races getting rained out but I did run it here at the my work on the airport ramp and I was impressed with it.
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Old 04-09-2008, 08:50 PM
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I put Three bond red silicone RTV on carb neck and o-ring, then push it all the way down and tighten screw pinch bolt I also put some sealant around screw and other side too, removed excess with tip of slot tool and paper towel, did I do right?
There are more parts to seal?

Maximo, can you post pics of your engine sealed?
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Old 04-09-2008, 10:14 PM
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Originally Posted by rankev11
Opps, I used this method with the evo 3. Do you think I caused any damage? So far I haven't ran it at the track due to our last races getting rained out but I did run it here at the my work on the airport ramp and I was impressed with it.
It won't cause any damage as far as the method you just used, it is just that the JL/Picco is very easy to break in, no more than 1 tank is what you need to break it in.
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Old 04-10-2008, 12:19 PM
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Originally Posted by Team Kamikaze
When breaking in the JL EVO 3 engine all you need is one tank at idle just to break in the connecting rod, on the the second tank you can already race tune the engine, don't have to do the WOT, it is not necessary for JL EVO 3 engine, you do the WOT only if it is a Nova Rossi.
Sam,

Does this method apply to the Tuned version too?
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Old 04-10-2008, 12:45 PM
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Originally Posted by neltime64
Sam,

Does this method apply to the Tuned version too?
Yes, Definitely
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Old 04-10-2008, 12:52 PM
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Originally Posted by Team Kamikaze
Yes, Definitely
Thanks Sam.

When will you have more 2607 pipes in stock?
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