Rtebbetts

So When I think about breaking it in, I first figure out where bottom dead center is. Put it at BDC after every tank right when I turn it off. Before each tank, I preheat with heat gun at BDC, start it up and continue break in. Make sure there's no fuel left inside the engine when I store it. During break in, Since I will do it when its in the low 40s out, I richen or lean the needle before I start break in? Richen? or Lean? Then after break in, run a tank to properly completely tune it and then store it. Then wait until another good sunny day when its at least 40 degrees out and then run it again. DO the after run maintenance, blahdy blahdy blah, etc. Just asking if I do all of that, will my engine adn car be OKAY? If worse comes to worse, I'll just buy a new engine for 90 bucks when it becomes springtime.

rfleck

iTrader: (58)

Engines last nearly twice as long with one, so yes. Yes, you should.

Rtebbetts

My traxxas .15 engine is too small so i am going to use a heat gun and aim at the glowplug area and the heat until the heat saturates the internals

rfleck

iTrader: (58)

Ok, periodically point it towards the engine block as well to help aid is heat saturation, then place tin foil over the head when running it in.

Tin foil and a beer coozie works great on .21's

kgombe

iTrader: (13)

engines dont last twice as long just because you have an engine heater nitro engines were around long before these things and we would get 8 gallons on them at race pace... a heat gun will do the same

it makes tuning and starting your engine easier and faster... but the real benefit is the convenience of just resting the heater on your engine and walking away.. (of course this is with the 120V version) .. and coming back to an engine you can fire up and go with...

i have one and i love it.. i can leave this thing on my engine and then do my wrenching.. and not have to worry about it.

Rtebbetts

I will do that. Im only a little skeptical because its a traxxas and has about 5 wires leading to the EZ start and theyre located right next to the engine. I am worried tht they might melt from the heat gun

Roelof

It depends with how patient you are with building up performance or in a tight schedule how much time you get to warm up the engine race ready.

Problem with a lot of drivers is that they fire up the engine and just go on speed, for sure the most RTR guys because they do not understand the technology.

Rtebbetts

I was wondering if its possible to actually build a nitro engine model snowblower? It sounds pretty weird just wondering it it could actually be achieved

Rtebbetts

Today, while I was driving my Nitro Sport, I noticed that the breakes stopped working. I look a look and found out that the servo wasnt pulling the break pad lever far enough forward to make contact, so I put a zip tie on the linkage and now it works perfectly. Before i did this, i replaced the reciever batteries and when I would break, the servo would make a weird abnormal noise; almost as if it was broken inside. But the servo works fine, just wanted to share my experience

Rtebbetts

I need some help. Today, I got my nitro engine tuned all good. After I got it tuned, I ran about 1 and a half tanks through it, and I noticed something. I went to full throttle instantly, and it went forward a little then the engine quit. DO you think this is my LSN, or my HSN. My HSN was a little rich, as when I would full throttle slowly and eventually reached max speed, there seemed to be excessive smoke. Could it just be that it was a little hot and didnt like that it went to wide open throttle instantly? Please reply somebody

Roelof

If the HSN is almost right and the engine is producing a lot of smoke when opening the throttle it seems the LSN is to rich. The LSN as in the sens is tuning the lower rpm range. In simple wordt it is determing the acceleration.

- to lean: the engine produces (almost) no smoke and can give some hickups before moving.
- right on spot: the engine reacts directly when going on throttle and accelerate fast.
- to rich: the engine produces a lot of smoke when opening the throttle and it takes some time to reach full speed.

Rtebbetts

Well today, I tuned from my LSN stock needle setting. It could be rich, but all I am saying is that Ive leaned it almost 360 degrees and it still seems to bog forward at idle sometimes and when I pick it up, the wheels spin really fast in the air. The Idle is good, as it is a 1mm opening. Do you think I should just keep leaning it in until it accelerates perfectly, then richen it 1/16th of a turn when it becomes too lean? I am just confused because It is almost turned all the way in (lean) and still seems to be rich because of the spinnign wheels in air and the bogging at idle

Roelof

A leaner adjustment on the LSN does give a higher idle as a reaction. As with a leaner setting on the HSN the RPM will raise at full speed the leanser setting on the LSN will raise the rpm at low speed....

You always have to adjust/correct the idle when changing the LSN.

Rtebbetts

So today, i tried tuning my LSN. Whenever id take the wheels off the ground, the rpm would speed up and the tires would spin. Would this indicate a rich or lean LSN? Also, it would stall when quickly accelerate, so I just set it back to 1 3/4 turns (stock) which was OKAY last time i tried stock settings, just a tad rich. I do know that the wheels are not supposed to spin freely off the ground, I just need help on getting it not to. my idle was smooth (until it would bog forward slowly from LSN) and I couldnt test my HSN as it would die when i reached mid speed

kaptain crash

iTrader: (46)

Did it die with lots of smoke or no smoke? Did it ..pop or chug before it died? sounds to me that your HSN is way to lean. If you lean your lsn you also have to lower your idle. Your bottom end idle, wheels turning could be a clutch bell bearing going bad or the one way bearing for your starter system acting up. Traxxas has a 1-800 number for tech support and will know your truck better and the problems that can occur with it.