rossoh10

iTrader: (10)

Question.Which of the GO engines would work the best in a truggy.I have the 5 port standard plug in my buggy.Should I put the 5 port in my truggy and buy a 7 port for my buggy...or what?Any input on motor and pipe combanation for a 8T would be apprecticated.

I was thinking about the .28 6 port but I can`t find any specs on this engine,or what pipe works good with it.

Thanks in advance

magbarn

iTrader: (6)

I've run the 5 port in both a 8T & a MBX5R. It has a little too much bottom for the buggy with a 13 bell I had to use 14 tooth and softer clutch spring (I went from mugen 1.1 to mugen 1.0) Then it was dialed. It's a perfect match for my 8T with the 13 bell. strong bottom and strong top to match. I would imagine the 7 port would be a better buggy motor with softer bottom and higher top end.

satoch

I agree. I run the 5 port in my 8B with a 13t bell and I've been doing everything I can to tame the bottom end for the loose outdoor season dirt. The Werks clutch with carbon shoes and the softest spring along with a 7mm restrictor has taken care of it while getting me 8:10 mins.

I'm anxious to get the 7port for the buggy.

rossoh10

iTrader: (10)

What pipe are you running?I`m running a JP2 and 14 tooth in my 8ight buggy and really like the bottom end it produces and it still has tons of top end.I`m glad I didn`t go with a JP1 because it probably would of been too much.I know from running the buggy that I`m going to need a little more bottom end with out losing too much top end for truggy

trebor

iTrader: (6)

WHAT??? you are saying 8 other people have had fins break off?? I find that hard to beleive unless your track is made up of concrete. Honestly now, I can see bending a fin but breaking them, lets be realistic here. I can say that the GO heads are solid and dont bend like some other top dollar engines.

Wow, you are ranked in top 10 in your country. Thats sweet! What country? What is your name? Are you sponsored?

GenReaper

iTrader: (8)

My old Go Tech .25 CXP had 3 cooling fins also break, i find the heat sinks to be of poor manufacture, my .21 5 Port hasnt done it as of yet but its still pretty new. Yes this is a common fault on these heat sinks.

Seems to shake or break about the second ring down from the top and the two below it and it doesnt happen from bad knocks IMO.

Other than that great motors.

magbarn

iTrader: (6)

I'm running a dynamite 086. I have all jp's (1/2/3) And definately the JP1 is too much bottom. Even my 8T would break traction with it. I run on a mostly dry/dusty track so I'm pretty traction limited so I'd rather have a softer bottom with strong mid/top power. A blue groove track may rather have the stron bottom punch that a jp1/5 port combo provides. As I've mentioned above, the jp2 doesn't have as much bottom as the 086 and it doesn't have any more top. The jp3 is my least favorite pipe as it makes the 5 port just "OK" It makes it feel "average" if you know what I mean.

Andrew_Carter

Hi Guys still having break in issues with my GO,piston keeps locking at the top after about 20 seconds of turning the fly wheel,it just want start then locks.Very annoying as i carnt unlock it with taking the engine back out of the car! Havent even ran 1 tank yet

free2day77

iTrader: (2)

use a heat gun to heat it up first. that will help alot.

satoch

You're supposed to be heating the engine with a heat gun or hair drier to get the engine to 200 degrees before even trying to turn over a new motor.

Andrew_Carter

Have been doing that and getting it to 200+ still dont want it....

rossoh10

iTrader: (10)

Get a good heat gun.I heated my 5 port up to 200 and it still didin`t work.I was pushing 250-270 with the heat before mine would start and I wand using a car battery charger to pwer my starter box

satoch

Loosen the glow plug a little bit when trying to start it to relieve a little of the compression.

Rocket42

Andrew first make sure that you get plenty of heat in to the engine, and if you can keep the heat gun on it while you try to start it that will help. Also its importnant to note that you have to give it time for the heat from the heat gun to work its way into the crankcase not just the head.

Also this is very important, Get a large regular screw driver, so when the engine does stick, you can stick that thru the flywheel hole and pry the engine unstuck. That way you won't have to remove the engine from the car. Remove the glow plug completely and pour a lot of after run oil into the engine, then heat it up and bump it a couple of times. Pour in some more after run oil put the plug back in it and don't tighten it all the way.

About the fins breaking off, The Go engines have the best stock cooling head on the market, its has a large diameter, lots of fins, and still very light. You will notice when your Go engine shuts off that the head will drop almost 100 degrees in a very very short time. This is one reason its very important to place the piston at BDC immediately after the engine shuts off because the temps will drop very fast.

This type of performance comes at a cost and while I have not personally seen the fins break or bend any easier then any other engine mfgr. I can understand how you could be upset if 8 people at your track had the problem. But in reality if that many people bent or broke cooling heads at your tack than there is something in the track causing it.

AzBobby

iTrader: (1)

all i can say is that i have had some of the most spectactular crashes ever. and sometimes numbering very high in just a six minute heat race. to this point i have not bent or broken a cooling fin yet. my motor is in a buggy and always has been so it is exposed to ever crash.

also a lot of tracks in countires outside the U.S. use concrete and wood and even railroad ties for obstacles in their tracks. these items have little to no give in them for a cooling fin to withstand. something else to consider.