Modified_Racer

Hey i am getting an os engine .18 cvr for my onroad nitro evo. I am wondering if its the same way to break in. Like do i just let it idle for 3 tanks then drive slowly for 3 tanks and then go faster and faster the next three tanks, and check if this pistons down. Thanks

p.s. also im getting a new gear ratio.

1st gear spur ratio - 43T plastic spur
2nd gear spur ratio -39T plastic spur

1st gear pinion ratio -21T gold p
2nt gear pinion ratio -17T gold pinion

i am also getting engine mounts and HPI Nitro RS4 3 Centax (Center Force) Clutch Set. Link

thats the link for it. Later on im getting foam tires when my tires ware out. I am getting the new engine withing 1 - 2 months or just 1 month. or 15 days heh when ever i know enough so please reply quick tell me if thats all i need if im set etc... and i already have aro and afo

Ridder

I have the same engine and car.
I did the break-in using the WOT method and heat cycling.
(enough info available: use search)

Don't baby that engine!
No idling for tanks!
Get it to normal operating temps ASAP (a little on the rich side), run it for a couple of minutes, let it cool, down and repeat, repeat and repeat.

Running the engine too cool is at leat as damaging as running too hot.

mgtman

i agree with ridder best way to break in engine heat cycle here is some info http://www.rcuniverse.com/magazine/a...article_id=397.

dirtdustingdavo

iTrader: (18)

Breaking in an engine on a rc is like breaking in a engine on a real car. You have to give it good squirt every so often to get the metals used to the temps they should be run at. Running in an engine on idle is a waste of fuel and time. You can be too soft and still have a failure at some stage. Just keep the air filter in good order and all should be sweet.

Ridder

Idling isn't only a waste of time and fuel, but also a waste of your engine....
The sleeve (especially the top) needs to expand to get the right fit.
By idling it won't get warm enough....in that case the piston wil make itself fit...it just wears away material from the sleeeve.
And when you get it up to temp after "breaking in" , then the piston/sleeve will be too loose...

VenomWorldOrder

just as long as you run the motor rich for the first few tanks and you keep an eye on the temperature it should be fine.

i like to idle my car for 1 tank at least with a fan infront of it. i make sure the temps sits at 80 degrees celcius or higher, but don't let it reach anything above 95. i might idle it again a second tank if i feel like it needs it then i start driving it slowly with small blips for tank 2 or 3 making sure it stays at 100 degrees celcius or less. 3rd tank i go a little harder letting it get ohtter 4th tank the same (all this without body) then 4th or 5th tank i race on the track rich (very!!) but i try to stay on the throttle as much as i can keeping it at around110 to 120 celcius. then start leaning.

after this i tear apart motor, inspect, and make some small modifications if i feel like it

V1-RRR-WC

I just ordered the V1-RRR-WC kit with an OS .12 5 Port Turbo engine. (Should get it later this week)

I have the same concern, what's the best way to break in your engine? I also have an FW05-R with an OZ .18 TZ but purchased this used.

There are so many different recommendations as to the best way, some of which are included in this thread. My question though is, what do any of you think of the procedure recommended for the new 2.5 TRX engine?

(File attached)

I followed this on my TRX engine (from new) and it performs exceptionally well. In studying many of the recommend ways of breaking in an engine, this seems to be a good mid way point.

Your comments would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks!

fritzD

iTrader: (1)

This method works well for me. With all needle needles at factory position:
2-3 tanks - idle
5 tanks 1/4 throtle
5 tanks 1/2 throtle
5 tanks full throtle
after that the engine can be tuned slowly.

rc_alan

I would always follow the manufactures recommendation of that particular motor... OS has break procedures that work best for there motors... Heat cycling is very important in the break in process as well as getting the piston and sleeve to seat properly... WOT will break the motor in faster, but is faster always better??? As for the Traxxas break in procedure, That charts shows that your motor in broken in after 5 tanks... I'll say this, no motor is broken properly after 5 tanks... Using the WOT method, maybe.... What ever motor you're using or plan on buyinig, go by that manufactures recommendations and you won't go wrong...

RC_Alan

V1-RRR-WC

Hi Guys,

Thanks for the comments. But this is exactly the problem... So many different recommendations.

Some say idle for a few tanks is good, others say it the worst thing you can do.

Some say WOT is good, while others say you have to be a crazy nut to do this.

Out of theory, I would say to go with the makers of the engine, but I have a friend who did (EXACTLY) what OS recommended and the engine took very long to break in and did not last long at all.

The hobby shop I purchased the kit and engine from said just make sure it's rich and run it. They said everyone is using this exact engine at their local track with no problems.

This seems to be the million dollar question in RC???

Any further comments are certainly welcomed!!!

rc_alan

Quote...Out of theory, I would say to go with the makers of the engine, but I have a friend who did (EXACTLY) what OS recommended and the engine took very long to break in and did not last long at all... V1-RRR-WC...

If that motor was broken correctly and exactly as OS recommends, I really doubt that there would be any problems... That motor comes with a 2 year warrenty as well... There's also a help number in the manuel and there website is a great source for help... I would have to say your friend didn't do exactly as per the manuel and if he did, he should have contacted OS for a replacement or help... Breaking in a motor is not that hard to do, but there are many ways of doing it wrong and a few ways of doing right... Good Luck

RC_Alan