Accord

Picture 3:

corwin

iTrader: (2)

As far as your reciever pack goes think 3.5 amps to high of a charge rate from for Triple A cells. If you have done that since you got the pack you may have shortend the longevity of the pack.

Best to charge pack at .5 amps to be nice to it, I have done as high as 1amp myself if I was in a rush to get on the track.

Accord

The pack has only been charged about 3-4 times at 3.5 amps, it's basically a brand new pack. If I start charging at .5 amps from hereon out, will I suffer any damage?

Also, the turning radius on my 705 is absolutely terrible, it is extremely hard to get through a hairpin turn even at very low speeds because the car simply cannot turn enough. What can I do to increase the turning radius?

Thanks

corwin

iTrader: (2)

Hard to know if the pack will suffer any damage.

Don't know the car well enough yet myself to give you feedback on turning radius. Just replaced my Yokomo GT4 last week with the 705.

InitialD

In colder climate countries, that may be true. In a hot and humid country like what we have here, the aluminum ones are suppose to work good. Besides, aluminum bodies are more reliable and the threaded shock cap will not strip upon impact.

I thought I read somewhere that Michael Salven uses aluminum shock bodies in the rear and plastic in the front. I think he's too fast and that there is more chances of getting hit in the rear than hitting someone in front

InitialD

You can use a gripper like what modellor suggested but if not done correctly, you'll scar your 35 mm aluminum Centax flywheel

You can use a flywheel locker made my Ofna. Look for it at your LHS.

The nut to lock the flywheel onto the SG shaft is a 10 mm one. The Hudy glow plug wrench / clutch nut tool (107581) is a perfect one for this job. This is my favourite tool

InitialD

Like what the others mentioned, charge it at 0.5 A and you should be fine. If you have a discharger, just discharge the receiver pack before you charge them at 0.5 A.

As for the oil leakage, it could come from the front of the engine bearing behind the flywheel. Check to see if it's coming from there. Else, also check the neck joint of the carb to the crankcase. Fuel can also leak there. If your manifold is not connected properly, oil can also leak from there.

When you're breaking in the engine and running rich, this may be common. Let us know if the problem persist after you've tuned the engine to performance. If it still leaks, then either the carb neck o ring is damaged or the front engine bearing needs to be replaced.

InitialD

You can turn up the steering travel from your Tx but be careful not to exceed the travel or you'll damage the servo and drain your receiver pack faster.

Yes, I have my steering travel set very little too but I do not encounter problems like you've described. Perhaps, you can use a harder shore tire in the rear or a softer shore front tire. Else, you can make your front shocks softer by clicking up to a hole or two or by making the front shock installed more horizontal or the rear shocks more vertical on the shock tower. Test it out and see.

Accord

Thanks InitialD, you're a big help. I'm going to go check all those things right now.

I also should mention that the oil was on the bottom of the engine case aswell.

InitialD

What radio are you using? How are you isolating the receiver on the car? I've experienced funny things when the receiver battery pack is not soldered good. Check that.

But if you're using a KO gear, I suggest to open up the Tx and check the antenna connection to the Tx to see if the connection is loose... ONLY if everything of the above is tried without success... Good luck.

InitialD

Then I would suspect very much that the leak is coming front he front engine bearing.

A side observation is that you ran the car on a pretty clean road... Usually with that amount of oil coming out, you'll attract a lot of dust and dirt.

Anyway, also check and clean the pipe. Oil residue may also reside there and may cause the passage flow to be blocked.

InitialD

Mark, that's the guru of all gurus you're talking about Art Carbonell is a former 1/8th scale world champ and he works full time mostly as a chief mechanic for Team Serpent USA. You'll see him in the big races only. Most of the modifications and upgrades that you now see on the 705 are in fact some of the ideas that he and Serpent USA contributed.

Then again, take the article with a pinch of salt. It was done way back when Impulse Streetspec came out. However, most still apply though.

Some of us back in the non HPI forum days were already using 705 parts before 705 came out !! Someone got a list of tips and modifications done on the team's Impulse PRO and passed it on to us. Yes, this is because most of the upgraded parts on the 705 come from the Impact expecially when you look at the pulleys. Parts of the new Centax clutch is mostly R&D done by him.

InitialD

Yes, that's a good pipe I hear. I've not tested it though. Try to get the 0.15 pipe (part number 61600 I believe). Don't know if it's legal or not but what Team Seprent used to do is to use the Novamega (2690) 0.15 turbo inline pipe in their 705 / Impulse PRO. I have also not tried this.

The Novarossi inline pipe is also another good choice. But the best pipe I've tried is the NovaMega TP05 Outlaw (2186) inline pipe. Fierce sounding pipe with nice rev all around. The EFRA legal version is 2185. Downside is that they are slightly more expensive to get.

InitialD

I have attached below a PDF file I came across from the Serpent Austria website concerning the updates and corrections to the 705 manual.

With the one way, you limit the brake points so that the car will stop fastest without the rear wheel locking up. But firstly like what Mark mentioned, you need to make sure your rear downstops and the shocks / chassis have no tweak so that you can be sure that you can brake in the straight line without the rear end swapping sides.

Xtreme RC article review tried to make it in depth but they had a few grave errors here and there... RCNitro mag article was short but I love the chick and the bodyshell

InitialD

The file is too big. I'll cut and paste the important contents below. If you need the original file, PM me or you can download it yourself at www.serpent.at

Step Page Remark

4.2 12 Note: the standard pullies are 23T and 46T, and should be combined with the 18T side pulley. To achieve a shorter overall gear ratio, the 22T and 47T pullies can be used in combination with the 17T side pulley, necessary to maintain the proper overdrive ratio between front and rear.

22T: 909242
47T: 808376
17T: 801252

8.2 22 Picture change – It now displays the black flyweight and in a different orientation to previously shown. Please Note. The flyweights can only be mounted one way.

9.5 / 9.6 27 In order to allow the front body mount to be attached to the car you must remove the two E13 screws of the front shock tower (step 6.3). Once the body mount plate is in place you can re-attach it.

Reference Guide Part number corrections

#6581 Flywheel 35mm (#6579 not correct in Guide)
#9616 Pulley 23T (#909242 not correct in Guide)
#801245 Levers front anti roll bar (#909215 not correct in Guide)