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Old 06-03-2003, 06:25 PM   #1651
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Picture 3:
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Old 06-03-2003, 06:35 PM   #1652
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As far as your reciever pack goes think 3.5 amps to high of a charge rate from for Triple A cells. If you have done that since you got the pack you may have shortend the longevity of the pack.

Best to charge pack at .5 amps to be nice to it, I have done as high as 1amp myself if I was in a rush to get on the track.
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Old 06-03-2003, 06:40 PM   #1653
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The pack has only been charged about 3-4 times at 3.5 amps, it's basically a brand new pack. If I start charging at .5 amps from hereon out, will I suffer any damage?

Also, the turning radius on my 705 is absolutely terrible, it is extremely hard to get through a hairpin turn even at very low speeds because the car simply cannot turn enough. What can I do to increase the turning radius?

Thanks
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Old 06-03-2003, 07:02 PM   #1654
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Hard to know if the pack will suffer any damage.

Don't know the car well enough yet myself to give you feedback on turning radius. Just replaced my Yokomo GT4 last week with the 705.
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Old 06-03-2003, 08:30 PM   #1655
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Default Re: Re: Something good on MYTSN

Quote:
Originally posted by Accord
Wow, in that last link he actually suggests you use plastic shock bodies over aluminum shock bodies! He says the plastic ones are lighter and more consistent as they build up heat.
In colder climate countries, that may be true. In a hot and humid country like what we have here, the aluminum ones are suppose to work good. Besides, aluminum bodies are more reliable and the threaded shock cap will not strip upon impact.

I thought I read somewhere that Michael Salven uses aluminum shock bodies in the rear and plastic in the front. I think he's too fast and that there is more chances of getting hit in the rear than hitting someone in front
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Old 06-03-2003, 09:12 PM   #1656
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Quote:
Originally posted by supra528
yah.. i have most of the basics there... im gettin the setup stuff in vancouver ... wat about the tool to change wheels... for the wheel nuts... and do i need a piston locker for the engine to put on the flywheel?? and when do i know when to stop turning the pilot shaft??
You can use a gripper like what modellor suggested but if not done correctly, you'll scar your 35 mm aluminum Centax flywheel

You can use a flywheel locker made my Ofna. Look for it at your LHS.

The nut to lock the flywheel onto the SG shaft is a 10 mm one. The Hudy glow plug wrench / clutch nut tool (107581) is a perfect one for this job. This is my favourite tool
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Old 06-03-2003, 09:16 PM   #1657
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Quote:
Originally posted by Accord
Hey guys, I was just around running my 705 around my driveway and I didn't go more than half throttle. Well I came back in the house, inspected the car, and there was this mysterious oil liquid type stuff on the bottom of my chassis. I have no idea what it was, I can't identify it and it doesn't look like any oils i've used before. I wasn't driving hard at all or anything, i'm also running 30% fuel if that has anything to do with it. Does anyone have any idea what this oil is?

Also, my receiver battery dies after like 20-30 minutes of driving, even if I fully charge it right before I go out. I'm charging it at 3.5 amps if that helps. Any ideas?

Anyways, here are pictures of the mystery oil:
Like what the others mentioned, charge it at 0.5 A and you should be fine. If you have a discharger, just discharge the receiver pack before you charge them at 0.5 A.

As for the oil leakage, it could come from the front of the engine bearing behind the flywheel. Check to see if it's coming from there. Else, also check the neck joint of the carb to the crankcase. Fuel can also leak there. If your manifold is not connected properly, oil can also leak from there.

When you're breaking in the engine and running rich, this may be common. Let us know if the problem persist after you've tuned the engine to performance. If it still leaks, then either the carb neck o ring is damaged or the front engine bearing needs to be replaced.
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Old 06-03-2003, 09:21 PM   #1658
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Quote:
Originally posted by Accord
Also, the turning radius on my 705 is absolutely terrible, it is extremely hard to get through a hairpin turn even at very low speeds because the car simply cannot turn enough. What can I do to increase the turning radius?

Thanks
You can turn up the steering travel from your Tx but be careful not to exceed the travel or you'll damage the servo and drain your receiver pack faster.

Yes, I have my steering travel set very little too but I do not encounter problems like you've described. Perhaps, you can use a harder shore tire in the rear or a softer shore front tire. Else, you can make your front shocks softer by clicking up to a hole or two or by making the front shock installed more horizontal or the rear shocks more vertical on the shock tower. Test it out and see.
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Old 06-03-2003, 09:21 PM   #1659
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Thanks InitialD, you're a big help. I'm going to go check all those things right now.

I also should mention that the oil was on the bottom of the engine case aswell.
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Old 06-03-2003, 09:43 PM   #1660
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Default Re: WOT Glitches?

Quote:
Originally posted by JBrake
Anyone have any thoughts on possible causes of having a glitch at only WOT and over 100 feet away? At our local parking lot 160x80 track I have no problems glitching, but as soon as I put the car down at larger area track 300x160? The car starts with the glitching at WOT. I can drive the car around to the farthest corners of the track with no glitching. These aren't extreme glitches either, but small steering and the throttle servos wanting to stay wide open. I am guessing that these are coming from noise created from the motor? Any advice or thoughts on the matter would greatly appreciated. Thanks, J Longbrake.
What radio are you using? How are you isolating the receiver on the car? I've experienced funny things when the receiver battery pack is not soldered good. Check that.

But if you're using a KO gear, I suggest to open up the Tx and check the antenna connection to the Tx to see if the connection is loose... ONLY if everything of the above is tried without success... Good luck.
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Old 06-03-2003, 09:50 PM   #1661
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Quote:
Originally posted by Accord
I also should mention that the oil was on the bottom of the engine case aswell.
Then I would suspect very much that the leak is coming front he front engine bearing.

A side observation is that you ran the car on a pretty clean road... Usually with that amount of oil coming out, you'll attract a lot of dust and dirt.

Anyway, also check and clean the pipe. Oil residue may also reside there and may cause the passage flow to be blocked.
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Old 06-03-2003, 10:03 PM   #1662
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Default Re: Something good on MYTSN

Quote:
Originally posted by markp27
Just been browsing through some old articles on MYTSN and found the following three, which for a relative beginner, like me, seem pretty good:

http://www.mytsn.com/publ/publ.asp?pid=1985

http://www.mytsn.com/publ/publ.asp?pid=2157

http://www.mytsn.com/publ/publ.asp?pid=2178

Some nice simple explinations about car setup.

Cheers, Mark.
Mark, that's the guru of all gurus you're talking about Art Carbonell is a former 1/8th scale world champ and he works full time mostly as a chief mechanic for Team Serpent USA. You'll see him in the big races only. Most of the modifications and upgrades that you now see on the 705 are in fact some of the ideas that he and Serpent USA contributed.

Then again, take the article with a pinch of salt. It was done way back when Impulse Streetspec came out. However, most still apply though.

Some of us back in the non HPI forum days were already using 705 parts before 705 came out !! Someone got a list of tips and modifications done on the team's Impulse PRO and passed it on to us. Yes, this is because most of the upgraded parts on the 705 come from the Impact expecially when you look at the pulleys. Parts of the new Centax clutch is mostly R&D done by him.
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Old 06-03-2003, 10:08 PM   #1663
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Quote:
Originally posted by Proficar403
Since it is basically the same as the impulse, I am looking forward to it. I had a lot of positive results with my impulse. I was recently in a REAL car accident where my impulse was one of many things destroyed, so a 705 will be its replacement. I think that I am going to try the RD LOGICS pipe set.
Yes, that's a good pipe I hear. I've not tested it though. Try to get the 0.15 pipe (part number 61600 I believe). Don't know if it's legal or not but what Team Seprent used to do is to use the Novamega (2690) 0.15 turbo inline pipe in their 705 / Impulse PRO. I have also not tried this.

The Novarossi inline pipe is also another good choice. But the best pipe I've tried is the NovaMega TP05 Outlaw (2186) inline pipe. Fierce sounding pipe with nice rev all around. The EFRA legal version is 2185. Downside is that they are slightly more expensive to get.
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Old 06-03-2003, 10:43 PM   #1664
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Quote:
Originally posted by Devin
I just put in an order for a 705 kit with a NovaMega Sx12 engine package. I wanted to stay legal so no turbo engines. Looking forward to building it..I got alum shock bodies and vented brake disc to put on it while initial build. (I have the alum shock bodies on my xray and love them) How much do you limit the breaking due to the one way in the front? I use a Futaba 3PJS. Anyone enjoy the article of the 705 in August 2003 RC nitro mag? I just got it last week. Also in X-treem RC review of the 705, they say the kit centax clutch shoes in the manual are the wrong direction...is this true? Wanted to make sure I knew everything before putting the kit together. Thanks.
I have attached below a PDF file I came across from the Serpent Austria website concerning the updates and corrections to the 705 manual.

With the one way, you limit the brake points so that the car will stop fastest without the rear wheel locking up. But firstly like what Mark mentioned, you need to make sure your rear downstops and the shocks / chassis have no tweak so that you can be sure that you can brake in the straight line without the rear end swapping sides.

Xtreme RC article review tried to make it in depth but they had a few grave errors here and there... RCNitro mag article was short but I love the chick and the bodyshell
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Old 06-03-2003, 10:59 PM   #1665
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Quote:
Originally posted by InitialD
I have attached below a PDF file I came across from the Serpent Austria website concerning the updates and corrections to the 705 manual.

With the one way, you limit the brake points so that the car will stop fastest without the rear wheel locking up. But firstly like what Mark mentioned, you need to make sure your rear downstops and the shocks / chassis have no tweak so that you can be sure that you can brake in the straight line without the rear end swapping sides.

Xtreme RC article review tried to make it in depth but they had a few grave errors here and there... RCNitro mag article was short but I love the chick and the bodyshell
The file is too big. I'll cut and paste the important contents below. If you need the original file, PM me or you can download it yourself at www.serpent.at

Step Page Remark

4.2 12 Note: the standard pullies are 23T and 46T, and should be combined with the 18T side pulley. To achieve a shorter overall gear ratio, the 22T and 47T pullies can be used in combination with the 17T side pulley, necessary to maintain the proper overdrive ratio between front and rear.

22T: 909242
47T: 808376
17T: 801252

8.2 22 Picture change It now displays the black flyweight and in a different orientation to previously shown. Please Note. The flyweights can only be mounted one way.

9.5 / 9.6 27 In order to allow the front body mount to be attached to the car you must remove the two E13 screws of the front shock tower (step 6.3). Once the body mount plate is in place you can re-attach it.

Reference Guide Part number corrections

#6581 Flywheel 35mm (#6579 not correct in Guide)
#9616 Pulley 23T (#909242 not correct in Guide)
#801245 Levers front anti roll bar (#909215 not correct in Guide)
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