dct147

Hi all,

i know this has been asked at least 1000 times before, but from what i`ve read, votes for belt driven cars always beats shaft driven cars. not gonna argue about prefrence, but i`ve never driven a belt car. and i prefer the outlook of shaft cars (just the outlook). just looks cooler .

i`m intending to go for another car, parts support for kyoshos are better at the track i`m currently playing at. are there anyone here that`ll go for shaft driven rather than belt driven? just need a little more opinions b4 i make my purchase.

btw, has anyone heard of the Spectrum DX-3 2.4GHz DSM Radio ? just saw it at a site.

R40Victim

iTrader: (1)

The only time I'd be opposed to a belt, would be if there's lots of small rocks and debris on your racing surface. I've had both, and don't prefer either, since we clean our racetrack every time...

As for the DX3, I have one, and love it. No more glitches, no more frequncy conflicts, just a nice comfortable radio. Gives me alot more practice time, and the confidence to drive a car capable of 80mph...

dct147

Thanks for the reply.

Would u say , your driving style didn`t change on both kinds of cars?

how`s the functions for the DX3? is there a website for this radio where i can read more about it?

R40Victim

iTrader: (1)

Well, my first belt car was an RS4 Racer 2, and then I got the R40. Both are great cars, but when I got a Pro-4, I suddenly had to cope with a front one-way diff. This forced me to re-learn how to drive...faster. I later put a one way in the R40, but didn't get much chance to dirve it before a clutch failure took it out of commision. It's been sitting ever since because I can't find a specific bearing, it's apparently on backorder. I have my LHS tracking down a suitable substitute right now.

That's part of the reason I say there's not a huge difference. However, I'm comparing apples to oranges, the belt cars are nitro(including my XR80, also a belt car), and the shaft car is electric. I do have experience with a shaft nitro car, a TC3 I had for a while. I really liked it too, a very nice car. It seems belt and shaft tend to ebb and flow with popularity. I chose the cars I did because they were race-proven. I race club level, so I didn't need anything spectacular, and they're well supported locally(plenty of parts, most of the time )

About the DX3, here's a link to horrizon. They sell it, and have lots of info on it. There's related articles all over several hobby forums. This truly is a huge leap forward for R/C...

http://www.horizonhobby.com/Shop/ByC...ProdID=SPM2030

aaalp

Off the topic but I wanna ask:
When driving with the one way front diff.: Do you use the brakes at all? Because from what I have seen, when you brake HARD, the car spins out.
- Do you brake at all?
- If you do, do you adjust the brake so, that it brakes softly/gently even if you push the brakes all the way?
- Or do you not use the brakes at all when entering a corner and have an earlier point where you take your finger off the gas and let the car slow down and enter the corner at a higher speed than w/o the one way?

dct147

Thanks for the explanation R40Victim. . -- i like ur nick.

i guess i`ll have to try both kinds before i can decide again.

thanks!!

Scott Fisher

iTrader: (28)

Some corners I use the brakes, others I don't. When using the brakes with a one-way, you pretty much have to do straight line braking only and you definitely want to adjust your brakes so they don't grab very hard.

Ffejdat

iTrader: (5)

R40 victim- What bearing are you looking for in the clutch? the two clutch bell bearings are a common metric bearing, can get any generic ones the right size, if its the thrust bearing you are waiting for, that is a little tougher as it is a 4mm thrust bearing, if you get tired of waiting you can get a 5 mm thrust bearing and the T-nut piece that goes thru it from any other brand car, it will fit and be more reliable than the 4mm one and you can drive your car again. If you want to stick with HPI parts, order the thrust bearing and T-nut from a proceed, I did this last year when I ran an R40 and it worked good....Good Luck!

dodo

yes but try to break earlier and gently slow your car down, if you need to brake hard, try not turning your steering wheel at the same time (keep your car straight). well i don't know how to really describe it but from my experience, if you need to brake hard, most likely you will spin the car.

but if you are talking about entering a corner. the method that you mentioned will work just fine.

how about using ABS/ALB feature on the radio, has anyone tried before?

AndyT ©

One major bonus when using a front one way and using Futaba radios is to set the ATL function on the transmitter so the brakes dont grab too hard and lock up.....this way you can use the brakes and know youre not gonna be facing the other way every time you hit the brakes.....you`ll lose a bit of braking as a result of this but the one way should compensate for this with better turn in off power.
I`ve never bothered trying the ABS feature on the radio as its supposed to be quite harsh on the servo.
Cheers

New_Toasted

If I notice that I have to much brakes when I'm not able to pit to get it adjusted I just turn the ATL/EPA down a bit, sometimes it could be like night and day for your laptimes.

Im2lazy

The Kyosho FW is a great car. Shaft-drive, solid, fast. Driving is different between the two transmission types, but a good driver knows how to compensate. Belt is easier to drive, but I like the punch my shaft car has. Unlike any other car at the track... even the other FW's

As for one-ways and brakes... just set up your brakes to slow you down. If the brake locks up ever... your car could be in pieces shortly thereafter. All you want is for the brake to get the car to the proper speed and proper weight transfer to the front-end so the car can steer as it should. You cannot worry about being outbraked by full 4wd cars... its just going to happen anyway. Instead focus on being consistent, and you'll get the most out of your 1-way equipped vehicle.