Jea3

iTrader: (1)

Thanks Jo, I'll try that tonight, and post results tomorrow.


Not only do I love the car, I love the Mugen X12 engine too.

Derby Bros Racing

iTrader: (7)

no problem. remember to take out only necessary material where it actually touches the diff case. don't over do it!
good luck

rcfoolz

iTrader: (22)

JEA3, The post following yours is correct. I too looked at running a diff. I have one built, but don't know if I am going to use it yet. If I feel a little better, I might go down and see how it handles with the oneway, if not, I will start with the oneway and go from there. I am planning on running a motor that is a little down on power too. Too much power can mean a car that is hard to control getting on power... See you Sunday!

mgreen

Are you guys just stuffing the servo wires into the side of the gas tank? Thats the only way I can seem to get everything in there right. Also, I was just going to go with a regular on/off switch but now, I think it might be better to have a on/off switch with a charge-in jack. I can not wait to run this car; I just received some spare parts from Nitrohouse minus the side-belt due to being out of stock.

Derby Bros Racing

iTrader: (7)

you could but it's kind of dangerous and prone to being all wet from fuel spills (i.e. from pit stops or just from regular fueling) which could lead to glitches especially if the connectors are right at the bottom of the chassis

i personally like cutting the servo wires to length. this way everything goes neatly. the only drawback is that you may not be able to use the servo for another car anymore without adding wire again. i also posted this pic a few pages back of my car with a micro jr switch installed in the receiver protector that i modified to have a charge jack (it has a red cap protector in the pic below). you can also use a regular size swith by using the switch plate that came with the kit

mgreen

Thats a good idea with the charge-in jack and on/of switch. Is there a site that has a howto in cutting the servo wires to length? I guess I would needs some wire stripers.
I say that with a big smile on my face because I can already see myself destroying new servos.

Derby Bros Racing

iTrader: (7)

i don't know if there is one out there. there's ends available out there so you can make it nice and neat. but i did it the elementary way. with the servos in place, i stretched the wire to the receiver and cut where i thought would be the ok length. and then just solder them up (you know, red to red, black to black and so on). i use tiny heat shrink tubing which then made it look good afterwards. i also made sure the "soldered" parts are close to the receiver cover and away from the tank as much as possible.

mgreen

OK. Thanks for the info.

Slotmachine

iTrader: (4)

GO HERE FOR SERVO ENDS and make your wire any lenth. You can get the crimping tool from radio shack for around $10.00

rcmike

iTrader: (40)

I know the difference in materials between Rubber and urethane,but where or what conditions would you use one over the other? I need to order some parts and wanting to know which one. Thanks

Bundy_Bear

iTrader: (11)

Is anyone going to have crack an assist me?

BB

sparksy

iTrader: (14)

The reason you wouldnt want to run rubbers with an overdrive is tire diameter. Because rubbers are 99% of the time the same diameter.

With foams, you true a split between front and rear tire size. When running overdrive, the front wheels will rotate faster than the rear, so you tru the foams down to suit the rollout. With rubbers you cant do that, so the drive train will be trying to run the fronts faster than the rears, causing drive train stress and scrubbing the tires.

rcfoolz

iTrader: (22)

Yes, that is correct, but if you have to run rubber tires, you would need to find the right combination of pully gears to work and probably a new side belt. kind of like when running a 16/19 conversion on the mtx3. If you changed the front inner drive pully to a 19 as well as the side and put a belt on, just a few teeth more, I got a 1:1 drive ratio for the MTX3. You can find belt manufactures online and find the dist. in your area, and they make just about anything you can immage for belts sizes.

If I get a chance today, I will come back to this post with the calculated changes to make the car a 1:1 drive ratio.

rhed

Yea, me too . I just got my MTX4 today at my LHS. Funny thing for me is I haven't even started putting together my MRX4 which I got after Labor Day weekend.

Sow&Steady

If a 25t front side pulley can fit then that's what we need. It will also address somewhat the loose side belt issue.