4F1Racing

TM's pricing is $245.00. Look on my site, Ebay Store for street pricing.

Sam

rcrevolution

iTrader: (1)

yeah the track is high grip and it loves the jacos i run there, its high grip

rcrevolution

iTrader: (1)

about the upgrade kit, i dont want to sound like an ass or anything, but honestly who thinks that a few graphite parts will help at the track?

i believe its how good the driver is, not how upgraded a car is.

the mongoose is already a beast at the track

Car Breaker

iTrader: (10)

the convertion may increase the performance, at least I have mmuch more steering from my G4S compare to G4 (too much and have to alter the setup a lot).

yes, good driver does matter, but bussiness is bussiness, it is a tendency for ppl to get newer and better version of previous car. if a company don't have update for long, it will lost market share to those who update their car. company has to make money to continue support you with parts

also some ppl just don't want to spend time on setup and driving, hoping the updated version is the rameday for thir lack of skill.

that is my 2cents

Z00M

iTrader: (15)

The conversion to G4s is more about a better steering setup and weight distribution than 'a few graphite parts'.

4F1Racing

Team Magic's G4S is a totally new car that far exceeds the driving performance of the older versions of the G4. Not unlike any othe major company ie. mugen, serpent, and Kyosho to name the top 3, that test and researches to achive a better handling car that will accept the horsepower of todays engines and yet make it easy and comfortable to drive. Team magic did their testing as well and the spawn of that testing is the new G4S.

The conversion kit is not by any means a package with upgrade parts. If one would look right off the bat, you are getting a new chassis. If the new conversion needed only upgraded parts a chassis would not be necessary. The new chassis allows the change in positioning of all the components as well as yes accepting the new cam steering. However, in addition, our weight distribution has completely changed from the old car and different components like the side plates to make this a more stiffer and consistent handling the car. When you combined everything like Team Magic has done, you have a car that is totally different from present G4 types and the best part is for the better!

Yes present G4 types are good cars, but for faster times and be competitive, if that is what you want to be, then the conversion kit is for you.

Ahhhhh the new G4S does make you feel "The Power Of Team Magic"

EcZahst1

check your PM..! tnx

4F1Racing

Check Yours ! Your it!!!!!!!!!!!!!

YBSLOW

iTrader: (9)

Hey everybody,

If you are looking for G4 stuff I have listed on ebay a RD Logics Mongoose with almost every option installed as well as several hundred dollars worth of spares for a low starting bid of $125 bucks on ebay with no reserve.

Check it,
Brad T

rcrevolution

iTrader: (1)

I need help fast, anyone know the turnbuckle measurements (from one inside of the ball end to the other). the ones that connect the steering rack to the hub carrier.

The G4 says 33mm but thats WAY too long.

I have the RD mongoose with the new steering system

and I need the measurments asap

Car Breaker

iTrader: (10)

the length of the rod depend on your trackwidth. what is the trackwidth you use?
I use no longer then 30mm

rcrevolution

iTrader: (1)

guys my mongoose has a serious problem, the front suspension isn't working right.


the right side droops down more then the left, and when i straighten out right a-arm my left tire is like 10mm off the ground.


my ride height screws and droop settings screws arn't tightened yet so both sides are the same.

I don't know if its the roll bar or what.

but it has some serious issues.

can anyone help?

Car Breaker

iTrader: (10)

I know what you mean, front droop is one thing I hate most when setting car with blade type sway bar
you have to use the plastic knob on the Alu. sway bar to balance both side, it is by try and error, no easy method, at least for me.

let's hope so pro here can teach us how to balance the front droop easir way

flack

iTrader: (1)

It sounds like your front sway bar is binding up. I believe the rear sway bars are longer than the fronts. If you get them reversed they will definatly bind.

My advice....
1. Take the sway bars out
2. Back the droop and up stop screws all the way out.
3. Check to see if the suspension moves freely (no binding) as is equal.

When adjusting the droop screws, you should always remove the sway bar.
Most of the setup process should be done without the sway bar.

Doug

rcrevolution

iTrader: (1)

omg dude, thank you so much, i didnt even know this black knobs were for the droop!

i thought they were washers thanks I fixed the problem.

what are the little grub screws that go in horizontaly in the aluminum block for then?