KURAKITA

I'm actually using the #11 Servo Saver with a solid diff in the front. I did have to grind down the ball cups quite a bit to ensure that they did not make contact the diff housing, but they fit just fine in their stock location. I was a little concerned about grinding down the ball cups, but I popped out a dog bone during a hard impact and the ball cups remained intact and still connected.

The car has a ton of steering and I might try the # 10 with the mods you suggested.

I also did not remove the flange from the front diff pulley, and it fits just fine. You just need to take your time and evenly tighten the diff during assembly. If you over torque the diff case housings, it will cause the diff to warp and it will not fit properly in the front bulk head.

thescum

Hi there, does anyone find any use for the receiver cover on the RRR.... does it really help protect the receiver from fuel spills or is it better to remove it altogether...

btw, at bone stock and stock settings (no biased preloading) the RRR is pretty well balanced

Rt FR - 354 gm
Lf FR - 356 gm

Rt RR - 416 gm
Lf RR - 416 gm

Francis M.

iTrader: (2)

[QUOTE]Originally posted by thescum
[B]Hi there, does anyone find any use for the receiver cover on the RRR.... does it really help protect the receiver from fuel spills or is it better to remove it altogether...

the receiver cover doesn't really get in the way so i decided to keep in on to cover 3/4 of the receiver.

compaq888

i just read all 32 pages. That was an interesting read.

Here is what i gathered so far, the fuel tank might leak, the rear shock tower will most likely break and you will have to drill out the arms a little bit so the arms won't be so stiff. I still can't get over the fact the the receiver is not covered and there is almost no place to put the wires. The irony is that the fuel tank leaks where the receiver and the wires are.

The plus is that the car is agile and faster than it's older brothers. And weighs lower too. I have the RR and I have some problems with it, especially with the shock, that grounded me for 2 weeks because tower mixed up my order.

What i have learned from every car I had is that a company can redesign a car all they want but with new designs come new problems. I plan to run my RR for at least another year and most likely get the RRR, got to crawl before you can run.

jas1

there was plenty of room when i wired my 3r up.

rowveg36

iTrader: (21)

what upgrades did you guys have on your car? waiting for my v one rrr to arrive so might as well buy the important upgrades before i build it.

sjr456

iTrader: (19)

I would definitely upgrade the rear shock tower and replace the dogbones with universals. I would also add a pipe mount that mounts onto the chassis to replace the stock mount. The stock mount is part of the front bulkhead and is very fragile. You may want to add bearings in the steering. The car really doesnt need many upgrades, its very good out of the box.

compaq888

I think the wiring space is just about the same in the RRR and the RR, but the safety of the receiver is less in the RRR. I have mine protected from all sides by using a receiver cover on top of my receiver cover.

thescum

compaq888,

do you have a pix of your rrr....

TRAJ

I dont know if you have seen any of the pics on this forum, theres plenty of room on the V one RRR for wiring

ziggy12345

Use the optional rear camber links that you can fit 2 x bearings in

Cheers

dameetz

Which rear camber link is this? Is it the same as V1R camber link? Do you have the part no? Where can I order this?

Thanks!

Joe Chaplow

no need to put rear universals on the car. leave dog bones on rear. put the universals in the front though.

3434

VZ210 Rear Suspension arm set (RRR)

Joe Chaplow

what is the point of using the camber option part?