Kyosho v-one rrr
05-06-2006, 04:53 AM
#6376
Originally Posted by rmdhawaii
A few questions for everyone:
1. If you've been rear-ended, did something break on the car due to the collision itself?
1. If you've been rear-ended, did something break on the car due to the collision itself?
2. Have your changed your front suspension bushing so that it is in the upper most position (WCE instructions, step 6, position "A"). This is suppose to give you more turn in.
3. For the anti-rollbar, what do you have it set at and what is the performance difference between the hard and soft setting?
4. Other than Racing4Evo 
, is anyone else running the the 1 degree front hubs? Kyosho part # VZ201-1, V-One RRR Steering Knuckle 1 degree
, is anyone else running the the 1 degree front hubs? Kyosho part # VZ201-1, V-One RRR Steering Knuckle 1 degree
5. How much flex should there be in your front or rear belt before you have to replace it? (i.e. When you press it, how far down should it move?)
6. For the WCE, how much flex should there be when you depress the middle belt? (i.e. When you press it, how far down should it move?)
6. For the WCE, how much flex should there be when you depress the middle belt? (i.e. When you press it, how far down should it move?)
7. If you lose part or all of a tooth on a pulley, one-way or gear diff, should you replace it or can you continue to run with it?
8. What brand/part# inline fuel filter are you using?
9. Are you using a filter for the pressue line back to the fuel tank from the tuned pipe? If so, what brand/part# are you using?
10. Have you replaced your front or rears turnbuckles? If so, what did you replace them with?
11. Have you upgraded your rear swaybar to the 2.3 size? What has been the performance benefit? Why would this be a bad idea?
12. Do you normally run with or without the stock rear swaybar attached?
13. Are you using a tank opener? If not, why? If so, what does it look like? (i.e. tie strap or other device) Attach photo please.
14. This page (http://www.kyosho.co.jp/web/race/rac.../result-e.html),
shows a picture of Josh Cyrul's transponder mounted to the switch bracket. Is your transponder attached this way? Had any problems? Any other thoughts on this?
shows a picture of Josh Cyrul's transponder mounted to the switch bracket. Is your transponder attached this way? Had any problems? Any other thoughts on this?
15. What did you use to trim your bumper?
. Sharp as my hand found out many times. 
Thanks guys! Answers will be compiled and added to the FAQ. 
05-06-2006, 05:06 AM
#6377
Tech Addict
Originally Posted by Palmaris Europe
Only the rear shock tower mount. Changed to thicker one.
Dont use a fuel filter on 12 engines. It makes them run erratic. The filter in the tank is sufficient.
As no.8, running a filter between the tank and pipe is bad idea. They clog up and cause the engines to run erratic.
Dont use a fuel filter on 12 engines. It makes them run erratic. The filter in the tank is sufficient.
As no.8, running a filter between the tank and pipe is bad idea. They clog up and cause the engines to run erratic.
i runa filter on both and never had problem. i know people that are in the top 10 in austalia and they run filters too ???
05-06-2006, 05:37 AM
#6378
Originally Posted by ae_ntc3
lol what are you doing still up ???
are you ready for tomorrow ??
i might come out to have a look cause i need to get some bits off ric
are you ready for tomorrow ??
i might come out to have a look cause i need to get some bits off ric
look us up if you pop down and check out my new wepon of mass destruction and im still up because i'm adicted to reading, might need to look up readers annonomous for help
05-06-2006, 06:41 AM
#6379
Originally Posted by rmdhawaii
15. What did you use to trim your bumper?
Thanks guys! Answers will be compiled and added to the FAQ.
05-06-2006, 06:48 AM
#6380
Originally Posted by rmdhawaii
A few questions for everyone:
1. If you've been rear-ended, did something break on the car due to the collision itself?
2. Have your changed your front suspension bushing so that it is in the upper most position (WCE instructions, step 6, position "A"). This is suppose to give you more turn in.
3. For the anti-rollbar, what do you have it set at and what is the performance difference between the hard and soft setting?
4. Other than Racing4Evo, is anyone else running the the 1 degree front hubs? Kyosho part # VZ201-1, V-One RRR Steering Knuckle 1 degree
5. How much flex should there be in your front or rear belt before you have to replace it? (i.e. When you press it, how far down should it move?)
6. For the WCE, how much flex should there be when you depress the middle belt? (i.e. When you press it, how far down should it move?)
7. If you lose part or all of a tooth on a pulley, one-way or gear diff, should you replace it or can you continue to run with it?
8. What brand/part# inline fuel filter are you using?
9. Are you using a filter for the pressue line back to the fuel tank from the tuned pipe? If so, what brand/part# are you using?
10. Have you replaced your front or rears turnbuckles? If so, what did you replace them with?
11. Have you upgraded your rear swaybar to the 2.3 size? What has been the performance benefit? Why would this be a bad idea?
12. Do you normally run with or without the stock rear swaybar attached?
13. Are you using a tank opener? If not, why? If so, what does it look like? (i.e. tie strap or other device) Attach photo please.
14. This page (http://www.kyosho.co.jp/web/race/rac.../result-e.html),
shows a picture of Josh Cyrul's transponder mounted to the switch bracket. Is your transponder attached this way? Had any problems? Any other thoughts on this?
15. What did you use to trim your bumper?
Thanks guys! Answers will be compiled and added to the FAQ.
1. If you've been rear-ended, did something break on the car due to the collision itself?
2. Have your changed your front suspension bushing so that it is in the upper most position (WCE instructions, step 6, position "A"). This is suppose to give you more turn in.
3. For the anti-rollbar, what do you have it set at and what is the performance difference between the hard and soft setting?
4. Other than Racing4Evo
, is anyone else running the the 1 degree front hubs? Kyosho part # VZ201-1, V-One RRR Steering Knuckle 1 degree5. How much flex should there be in your front or rear belt before you have to replace it? (i.e. When you press it, how far down should it move?)
6. For the WCE, how much flex should there be when you depress the middle belt? (i.e. When you press it, how far down should it move?)
7. If you lose part or all of a tooth on a pulley, one-way or gear diff, should you replace it or can you continue to run with it?
8. What brand/part# inline fuel filter are you using?
9. Are you using a filter for the pressue line back to the fuel tank from the tuned pipe? If so, what brand/part# are you using?
10. Have you replaced your front or rears turnbuckles? If so, what did you replace them with?
11. Have you upgraded your rear swaybar to the 2.3 size? What has been the performance benefit? Why would this be a bad idea?
12. Do you normally run with or without the stock rear swaybar attached?
13. Are you using a tank opener? If not, why? If so, what does it look like? (i.e. tie strap or other device) Attach photo please.
14. This page (http://www.kyosho.co.jp/web/race/rac.../result-e.html),
shows a picture of Josh Cyrul's transponder mounted to the switch bracket. Is your transponder attached this way? Had any problems? Any other thoughts on this?
15. What did you use to trim your bumper?
Thanks guys! Answers will be compiled and added to the FAQ.
2. No. I have not experimented with the roll centers yet.
3. The front anti roll bar I change depending on track condition (if the traction is really good, I turn it up to take out some steering). The rear sway bar is set stock. I have not experimented with it yet.
4. No.
5 & 6. I run my belts loose. If you want the car to be free they have to be loose. If I push down on the belts they move as follows: fr - 3mm, rear - 5mm, side - 5mm. I used my caliper to measure this but it is not exact by any means. I am using the original belts in my car and have raced the car several times.
7. I would change it if I had time.
8. Not using one.
9. Not using one.
10. No. I am considering changing to titanium for weight reasons.
11. No, I have not experimented with this yet. I have considered changing to a softer rear sway bar for traction reasons.
12. Always attached.
13. Yes and no. I have a zip tie that runs out the back window but my pit guys prefer to just use their fingers, thumb on tank lid, fingers in back window. It's easy to pick the car up and refuel this way.
14. My transponder is mounted on top of the switch mount.
15. I used a razor knife but some friends have told me to use a dremel with a grinder bit.
I wish I could figure out how to respond like Palmaris Europe did.
It would be so much easier.
05-06-2006, 06:57 AM
#6381
Originally Posted by drfritz
I think that they have to draw the line on what they will put on the car from the factory just to keep the cost down. Nobody is going to pay 5 bills for a car.
05-06-2006, 09:47 AM
#6382
Originally Posted by ae_ntc3
how do you know they run irratic ??
i runa filter on both and never had problem. i know people that are in the top 10 in austalia and they run filters too ???
i runa filter on both and never had problem. i know people that are in the top 10 in austalia and they run filters too ???
Here, idle and low end become unstable when using the filter. Without it the engines have no problems. Like I said, the filter clogs up. This experience is not just from my own engines. I have witnessed it on engines from countless other people.
05-06-2006, 11:28 AM
#6384
I disagree with #8 if the filter clogs up it is doing it's job by preventing it from getting into your engine & causing some damage to the engine simply clean the filter having 2 filters is better than one & some add a second filter to increase runtime in races besides having 2 givies you a better filtration
Originally Posted by Palmaris Europe
Only the rear shock tower mount. Changed to thicker one.
Not played with settings yet.
Setting for the anti-roll bars depends on the track (tight or flowing, low grip or high grip). I dont have the time to explain the differences just now.
Again, not played with these yet.
For all the belts you should be able to depress them. A tight belt binds the transmission when off power. Dont worry too much about how slack they feel when pushing them. When you hold either the front or rear wheels make sure none of the belts are able to skip without lots of force when you rotate the opposite wheels. If they skip easy then change them.
If any pulley etc is starting too wear or has missing teeth you should change it straightaway. It will chew belts constantly.
Dont use a fuel filter on 12 engines. It makes them run erratic. The filter in the tank is sufficient.
As no.8, running a filter between the tank and pipe is bad idea. They clog up and cause the engines to run erratic.
I replace with Ti ones for weight reasons. I prefer to get the car under weight and then add lead to the chassis as required so I can adjust the balance as required.
Again, not upgraded this. Not had a chance to play with any changes.
I always run with the swaybars attached unless it is wet. Then I will disconnect it to let the car roll.
I never run a tank opener. Reason being that if it comes out through the top then if the car rolls it can pull the tank open and you loose all the gas. Through the rear window only makes the pitstops too slow. A fast pitstop on a 16-20sec lap can give you a full lap advantage.
This is the handiest place to have it. Keeps all the wires together so everything can be packaged neatly. Loose wires can get caught in the drivetrain or skobe the ground and cut through.
I use a surgeons scalpel . Sharp as my hand found out many times.
Not played with settings yet.
Setting for the anti-roll bars depends on the track (tight or flowing, low grip or high grip). I dont have the time to explain the differences just now.
Again, not played with these yet.
For all the belts you should be able to depress them. A tight belt binds the transmission when off power. Dont worry too much about how slack they feel when pushing them. When you hold either the front or rear wheels make sure none of the belts are able to skip without lots of force when you rotate the opposite wheels. If they skip easy then change them.
If any pulley etc is starting too wear or has missing teeth you should change it straightaway. It will chew belts constantly.
Dont use a fuel filter on 12 engines. It makes them run erratic. The filter in the tank is sufficient.
As no.8, running a filter between the tank and pipe is bad idea. They clog up and cause the engines to run erratic.
I replace with Ti ones for weight reasons. I prefer to get the car under weight and then add lead to the chassis as required so I can adjust the balance as required.
Again, not upgraded this. Not had a chance to play with any changes.
I always run with the swaybars attached unless it is wet. Then I will disconnect it to let the car roll.
I never run a tank opener. Reason being that if it comes out through the top then if the car rolls it can pull the tank open and you loose all the gas. Through the rear window only makes the pitstops too slow. A fast pitstop on a 16-20sec lap can give you a full lap advantage.
This is the handiest place to have it. Keeps all the wires together so everything can be packaged neatly. Loose wires can get caught in the drivetrain or skobe the ground and cut through.
I use a surgeons scalpel
. Sharp as my hand found out many times.
05-06-2006, 01:13 PM
#6385
Tech Master
iTrader: (3)
Join Date: Dec 2001
Location: Costa Del Sol, Marbella, Spain www.bradir.net
Posts: 1,456
Trader Rating: 3 (100%+)
josh cyrul's RRR
josh's RRR
05-06-2006, 01:29 PM
#6386
1. If you've been rear-ended, did something break on the car due to the collision itself?
I have been rear ended many times and not broken a part
2. Have your changed your front suspension bushing so that it is in the upper most position (WCE instructions, step 6, position "A"). This is suppose to give you more turn in.
Never tried it. I have not needed more turning.
3. For the anti-rollbar, what do you have it set at and what is the performance difference between the hard and soft setting?
I usually run soft.
Front anti roll bar
Soft
Increases chassis roll
Increases front grip
Decreases off-power steering at corner entry
Slower steering response
Hard
Decreases chassis roll
Decreases front grip (increases rear grip)
Increase off power steering at corner entry
Quicker steering response
Rear anti roll bar
Soft
Increases chassis roll
Increases rear grip
Decreases on power steering
Hard
Decreases chassis roll
Decreases rear grip (increases front grip)
Increases on power steering
Quicker steering response in high speed chicanes
4. Other than Racing4Evo , is anyone else running the the 1 degree front hubs? Kyosho part # VZ201-1, V-One RRR Steering Knuckle 1 degree
No
5. How much flex should there be in your front or rear belt before you have to replace it? (i.e. When you press it, how far down should it move?)
When pressing down on front and rear belts, it should have some give. If it seems too much, then adjust it (no need to change). I only change belts if the is a tooth or part of a tooth missing or there are signs of shredding.
6. For the WCE, how much flex should there be when you depress the middle belt? (i.e. When you press it, how far down should it move?)
The upper side of the belt should not touch the lower side with the tensioner on
7. If you lose part or all of a tooth on a pulley, one-way or gear diff, should you replace it or can you continue to run with it?
Replace immediately. It wears the belts.
8. What brand/part# inline fuel filter are you using?
None. The stone filter in the tank is adequate
9. Are you using a filter for the pressue line back to the fuel tank from the tuned pipe? If so, what brand/part# are you using?
No
10. Have you replaced your front or rears turnbuckles? If so, what did you replace them with?
No
11. Have you upgraded your rear swaybar to the 2.3 size? What has been the performance benefit? Why would this be a bad idea?
Yes. I use the 2.3 because it gets me thru the chicanes at Ft Myers on power and faster. It also helps in getting the car to rotate better at mid corner.
12. Do you normally run with or without the stock rear swaybar attached?
Attached
13. Are you using a tank opener? If not, why? If so, what does it look like? (i.e. tie strap or other device) Attach photo please.
No. I run the car with a Lola body in outlaw configuration.
14. This page (http://www.kyosho.co.jp/web/race/ra...5/result-e.html),
shows a picture of Josh Cyrul's transponder mounted to the switch bracket. Is your transponder attached this way? Had any problems? Any other thoughts on this?
I use the transponder mount provided in the kit (same as the switch bracket)
15. What did you use to trim your bumper?
A sharp knife does a wonderful job. Since I run outlaw, I use the VZ082 front bumper for the V1RR
I have been rear ended many times and not broken a part
2. Have your changed your front suspension bushing so that it is in the upper most position (WCE instructions, step 6, position "A"). This is suppose to give you more turn in.
Never tried it. I have not needed more turning.
3. For the anti-rollbar, what do you have it set at and what is the performance difference between the hard and soft setting?
I usually run soft.
Front anti roll bar
Soft
Increases chassis roll
Increases front grip
Decreases off-power steering at corner entry
Slower steering response
Hard
Decreases chassis roll
Decreases front grip (increases rear grip)
Increase off power steering at corner entry
Quicker steering response
Rear anti roll bar
Soft
Increases chassis roll
Increases rear grip
Decreases on power steering
Hard
Decreases chassis roll
Decreases rear grip (increases front grip)
Increases on power steering
Quicker steering response in high speed chicanes
4. Other than Racing4Evo , is anyone else running the the 1 degree front hubs? Kyosho part # VZ201-1, V-One RRR Steering Knuckle 1 degree
No
5. How much flex should there be in your front or rear belt before you have to replace it? (i.e. When you press it, how far down should it move?)
When pressing down on front and rear belts, it should have some give. If it seems too much, then adjust it (no need to change). I only change belts if the is a tooth or part of a tooth missing or there are signs of shredding.
6. For the WCE, how much flex should there be when you depress the middle belt? (i.e. When you press it, how far down should it move?)
The upper side of the belt should not touch the lower side with the tensioner on
7. If you lose part or all of a tooth on a pulley, one-way or gear diff, should you replace it or can you continue to run with it?
Replace immediately. It wears the belts.
8. What brand/part# inline fuel filter are you using?
None. The stone filter in the tank is adequate
9. Are you using a filter for the pressue line back to the fuel tank from the tuned pipe? If so, what brand/part# are you using?
No
10. Have you replaced your front or rears turnbuckles? If so, what did you replace them with?
No
11. Have you upgraded your rear swaybar to the 2.3 size? What has been the performance benefit? Why would this be a bad idea?
Yes. I use the 2.3 because it gets me thru the chicanes at Ft Myers on power and faster. It also helps in getting the car to rotate better at mid corner.
12. Do you normally run with or without the stock rear swaybar attached?
Attached
13. Are you using a tank opener? If not, why? If so, what does it look like? (i.e. tie strap or other device) Attach photo please.
No. I run the car with a Lola body in outlaw configuration.
14. This page (http://www.kyosho.co.jp/web/race/ra...5/result-e.html),
shows a picture of Josh Cyrul's transponder mounted to the switch bracket. Is your transponder attached this way? Had any problems? Any other thoughts on this?
I use the transponder mount provided in the kit (same as the switch bracket)
15. What did you use to trim your bumper?
A sharp knife does a wonderful job. Since I run outlaw, I use the VZ082 front bumper for the V1RR
05-06-2006, 01:37 PM
#6387
Originally Posted by ianhobbies
josh's RRR
Josh did a 360 at every corner till he could get back to the pits. And his pitman could not figure out what was wrong until another crews pitman pointed it out to him.
05-06-2006, 10:07 PM
#6388
Guy's,
Some thought's I might share about my experience today. I'm using VZW207(think that is right) the new rear shock tower bulk replacement. When I first used this combo I had the camber link inner at the middle hole with 2mm spacer under it and no spacer on the outer end. Today i changed to the outer hole and no spacer and a 2mm spacer on the outer link. This gave me a shorter link with more angle. The reult of this change was exceptional rear grip i went from 40sh to 42sh and it still gave me front end push. Didn't get time to sort out the front end this time out but I can see me have to go to a harder rear bar and more caster.
Some thought's I might share about my experience today. I'm using VZW207(think that is right) the new rear shock tower bulk replacement. When I first used this combo I had the camber link inner at the middle hole with 2mm spacer under it and no spacer on the outer end. Today i changed to the outer hole and no spacer and a 2mm spacer on the outer link. This gave me a shorter link with more angle. The reult of this change was exceptional rear grip i went from 40sh to 42sh and it still gave me front end push. Didn't get time to sort out the front end this time out but I can see me have to go to a harder rear bar and more caster.
05-06-2006, 11:36 PM
#6389
Originally Posted by B4
Guy's,
Some thought's I might share about my experience today. I'm using VZW207(think that is right) the new rear shock tower bulk replacement. When I first used this combo I had the camber link inner at the middle hole with 2mm spacer under it and no spacer on the outer end. Today i changed to the outer hole and no spacer and a 2mm spacer on the outer link. This gave me a shorter link with more angle. The reult of this change was exceptional rear grip i went from 40sh to 42sh and it still gave me front end push. Didn't get time to sort out the front end this time out but I can see me have to go to a harder rear bar and more caster.
Some thought's I might share about my experience today. I'm using VZW207(think that is right) the new rear shock tower bulk replacement. When I first used this combo I had the camber link inner at the middle hole with 2mm spacer under it and no spacer on the outer end. Today i changed to the outer hole and no spacer and a 2mm spacer on the outer link. This gave me a shorter link with more angle. The reult of this change was exceptional rear grip i went from 40sh to 42sh and it still gave me front end push. Didn't get time to sort out the front end this time out but I can see me have to go to a harder rear bar and more caster.
05-06-2006, 11:40 PM
#6390
I don't know if mentioned it but putting shims under the inner mount of the rear camber link will raise the rear roll center and putting shims on the outside, between the hub and link mount, will do the opposite.