I wish someone can answer ..
03-26-2010, 11:16 AM
#1
I wish someone can answer ..
Hello,
I have this question for two years now and it seems that very few people know the right answer.
I own a kyosho v-one rrr. This is a very old version. It is the first rrr that came out.
I run this car very few times at the past.
The problem i am facing with the car is basically the fact that i want to make it more durable and i want to convert it to evo 2 wc.
Some people told me to buy the nt1 because it will cost the same money.
If i had the money to buy a 500 dollar new nt1 i would have done it already but i feel that maybe if someone know exactly what parts i need to convert my rrr to the updated version then i will see if it really worth to buy the new nt1 or not.
Thank you all for listening!
I have this question for two years now and it seems that very few people know the right answer.
I own a kyosho v-one rrr. This is a very old version. It is the first rrr that came out.
I run this car very few times at the past.
The problem i am facing with the car is basically the fact that i want to make it more durable and i want to convert it to evo 2 wc.
Some people told me to buy the nt1 because it will cost the same money.
If i had the money to buy a 500 dollar new nt1 i would have done it already but i feel that maybe if someone know exactly what parts i need to convert my rrr to the updated version then i will see if it really worth to buy the new nt1 or not.
Thank you all for listening!
03-26-2010, 11:34 AM
#2
I have had Kyosho V-ONE RRR since way back when.
Each time they change things they are very small changes and some times it dont help to do the changes.
Are you racing it all the time and are you competive with it?
If not then what is the car doing that makes you think something out there is better i only update my car when i find it makes me faster not because they came out with it.
I now run the Kyosho V-ONE RRR EVO 2 W/C not the latest and gratest but it out preforms what i can do with it.
I will change this or that to see if its faster if it is then i get it if it dont then dont get that part maby another makes it faster.
Find a buddy who gets all the new parts and try some before you buy all of it.
The car i pretty tuff it can take some good hits before messing the set up so bad it cant be driven.
Are you a newby-smacking the walls all the time if so the buy the parts that brake all the time.
Front knuckles and rear uprights.
Upper and lower arms both front and rear.
They make changes on these cars and think its better then you hear everybody is going back to the old parts because they are faster.
So make it wher it feels good and drive it hard as you can until you hit the wall and then slow down just a little then you will make.
Hope this helps
Jeff E.
Each time they change things they are very small changes and some times it dont help to do the changes.
Are you racing it all the time and are you competive with it?
If not then what is the car doing that makes you think something out there is better i only update my car when i find it makes me faster not because they came out with it.
I now run the Kyosho V-ONE RRR EVO 2 W/C not the latest and gratest but it out preforms what i can do with it.
I will change this or that to see if its faster if it is then i get it if it dont then dont get that part maby another makes it faster.
Find a buddy who gets all the new parts and try some before you buy all of it.
The car i pretty tuff it can take some good hits before messing the set up so bad it cant be driven.
Are you a newby-smacking the walls all the time if so the buy the parts that brake all the time.
Front knuckles and rear uprights.
Upper and lower arms both front and rear.
They make changes on these cars and think its better then you hear everybody is going back to the old parts because they are faster.
So make it wher it feels good and drive it hard as you can until you hit the wall and then slow down just a little then you will make.
Hope this helps
Jeff E.
03-26-2010, 11:53 AM
#4
I have had Kyosho V-ONE RRR since way back when.
Each time they change things they are very small changes and some times it dont help to do the changes.
Are you racing it all the time and are you competive with it?
If not then what is the car doing that makes you think something out there is better i only update my car when i find it makes me faster not because they came out with it.
I now run the Kyosho V-ONE RRR EVO 2 W/C not the latest and gratest but it out preforms what i can do with it.
I will change this or that to see if its faster if it is then i get it if it dont then dont get that part maby another makes it faster.
Find a buddy who gets all the new parts and try some before you buy all of it.
The car i pretty tuff it can take some good hits before messing the set up so bad it cant be driven.
Are you a newby-smacking the walls all the time if so the buy the parts that brake all the time.
Front knuckles and rear uprights.
Upper and lower arms both front and rear.
They make changes on these cars and think its better then you hear everybody is going back to the old parts because they are faster.
So make it wher it feels good and drive it hard as you can until you hit the wall and then slow down just a little then you will make.
Hope this helps
Jeff E.
Each time they change things they are very small changes and some times it dont help to do the changes.
Are you racing it all the time and are you competive with it?
If not then what is the car doing that makes you think something out there is better i only update my car when i find it makes me faster not because they came out with it.
I now run the Kyosho V-ONE RRR EVO 2 W/C not the latest and gratest but it out preforms what i can do with it.
I will change this or that to see if its faster if it is then i get it if it dont then dont get that part maby another makes it faster.
Find a buddy who gets all the new parts and try some before you buy all of it.
The car i pretty tuff it can take some good hits before messing the set up so bad it cant be driven.
Are you a newby-smacking the walls all the time if so the buy the parts that brake all the time.
Front knuckles and rear uprights.
Upper and lower arms both front and rear.
They make changes on these cars and think its better then you hear everybody is going back to the old parts because they are faster.
So make it wher it feels good and drive it hard as you can until you hit the wall and then slow down just a little then you will make.
Hope this helps
Jeff E.
03-26-2010, 04:57 PM
#5
Big Jeff BBQ
Thanks for your post and sorry for taking you time ...
I race mostly 1/8 buggy but because i am studying in London when i go back to Cyprus in the summer they do not do races for 1/8 buggy in jluy and august because the temperatures reach 40 degrees.. I personally do not mind but there are people that can not race in such weather condtions.
So there are more 1/10 gp 200mm races.
When i was 11-12 i did some races with a thunder tiger ts4n pro. In my town then i was the only one racing with a belt driven car and i managed to win some races. Then i got sponsored by Hpi in Cyprus and the distributor gave me an hpi r40 to run for free and then that guy lost the Hpi from another guy who was richer i guess. Then for a long time there were no races and after they begun again i bought my self a serpent 720 07. Since i bought that car i seriously never managed to make it handle like i wanted. I still have it but i can not drive it.. I bought 250 dollar option part for it , i did some mods that i found on this forum but again i cannot drive it. I then bought from ebay the kyosho rrr and seriously i dont know why but it is much much better than the 720.
Imagine that i bought it from ebay already build i took it to cyprus i did the campers toes everything in the track with no setup station , i changed the spring to blue ones i put a very stiff one to the front and a very soft one to the rear, i went into the race without even practise it..I remmber i managed to do three rounds only on the track with it and i started qualyfing. I managed to finish 4 out of the 20 but i was pushing it to the maxximum and i could not catch the fast guys. they were 2 seconds infront of me i was doing 21 and there were doing 19 seconds.
the v one rr was the best on road car i have ever driven in my life..
compared to the r40 and the 720 it was by far better at least for my driving..
then i came for studies but everytime i go back i want to race with it again but i am afraid because everything on it is stock and it seems that i it luck some very important parts. for example the braking system worn out..there is a hub on the brake disk instead of pins. the setup changed on its own..
now it is not stable as it used to be when i first run it..
the front and rear axles are dog bones, the engine mounts are the stock ones, the upper deck is the old one, the bulkheads i think they have changed..
there a lot of things that have changed and i can not get an order of what i have to change and what are the important things that i must take care of..
Thanks for your post and sorry for taking you time ...
I race mostly 1/8 buggy but because i am studying in London when i go back to Cyprus in the summer they do not do races for 1/8 buggy in jluy and august because the temperatures reach 40 degrees.. I personally do not mind but there are people that can not race in such weather condtions.
So there are more 1/10 gp 200mm races.
When i was 11-12 i did some races with a thunder tiger ts4n pro. In my town then i was the only one racing with a belt driven car and i managed to win some races. Then i got sponsored by Hpi in Cyprus and the distributor gave me an hpi r40 to run for free and then that guy lost the Hpi from another guy who was richer i guess. Then for a long time there were no races and after they begun again i bought my self a serpent 720 07. Since i bought that car i seriously never managed to make it handle like i wanted. I still have it but i can not drive it.. I bought 250 dollar option part for it , i did some mods that i found on this forum but again i cannot drive it. I then bought from ebay the kyosho rrr and seriously i dont know why but it is much much better than the 720.
Imagine that i bought it from ebay already build i took it to cyprus i did the campers toes everything in the track with no setup station , i changed the spring to blue ones i put a very stiff one to the front and a very soft one to the rear, i went into the race without even practise it..I remmber i managed to do three rounds only on the track with it and i started qualyfing. I managed to finish 4 out of the 20 but i was pushing it to the maxximum and i could not catch the fast guys. they were 2 seconds infront of me i was doing 21 and there were doing 19 seconds.
the v one rr was the best on road car i have ever driven in my life..
compared to the r40 and the 720 it was by far better at least for my driving..
then i came for studies but everytime i go back i want to race with it again but i am afraid because everything on it is stock and it seems that i it luck some very important parts. for example the braking system worn out..there is a hub on the brake disk instead of pins. the setup changed on its own..
now it is not stable as it used to be when i first run it..
the front and rear axles are dog bones, the engine mounts are the stock ones, the upper deck is the old one, the bulkheads i think they have changed..
there a lot of things that have changed and i can not get an order of what i have to change and what are the important things that i must take care of..
03-26-2010, 07:20 PM
#6
Interesting...
I recommend buying a more up-to-date car. It really doesn't matter which one. There are a lot of changes between the original RRR and the Evo2 World Championship edition, so it is not worth upgrading. NT1 is a good car and you'll have no problems with it. You just have to decide what you want to get. I wouldn't say that one is going to make you any faster than the other.
I recommend buying a more up-to-date car. It really doesn't matter which one. There are a lot of changes between the original RRR and the Evo2 World Championship edition, so it is not worth upgrading. NT1 is a good car and you'll have no problems with it. You just have to decide what you want to get. I wouldn't say that one is going to make you any faster than the other.
03-26-2010, 08:33 PM
#7
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didrace, I started with the original RRR also and updated as needed. The big changes that I have are:
New chassis
New shocks
Front diff or spool
New spur gears (no choice old style not available)
New tank (old one broke)
Longer rear bones (so I can run 0 offset wheels easier)
New 2 speed shaft and pulley (for club racing, big races I run original parts which have less rotating mass)
New rear shock tower, I like the extra thickness.
I still run:
Original top-deck because I like the lay-down servo.
Original shock springs 90% of the time.
Original sway-bars because the adjustable can't go soft enough.
Original servo saver
The arms are still the same
Original 3 shoe clutch, I didn't like the 2 shoe.
So there isn't much to change, all of the "New" cars are just little weeks. But with that said, it probably would be cheaper to get a new car. I updated as I went since that was the only choice I had. I also think the RRR is out dated and there are cars out there that make it easier to go faster, but may not be as rugged.
Good luck!
New chassis
New shocks
Front diff or spool
New spur gears (no choice old style not available)
New tank (old one broke)
Longer rear bones (so I can run 0 offset wheels easier)
New 2 speed shaft and pulley (for club racing, big races I run original parts which have less rotating mass)
New rear shock tower, I like the extra thickness.
I still run:
Original top-deck because I like the lay-down servo.
Original shock springs 90% of the time.
Original sway-bars because the adjustable can't go soft enough.
Original servo saver
The arms are still the same
Original 3 shoe clutch, I didn't like the 2 shoe.
So there isn't much to change, all of the "New" cars are just little weeks. But with that said, it probably would be cheaper to get a new car. I updated as I went since that was the only choice I had. I also think the RRR is out dated and there are cars out there that make it easier to go faster, but may not be as rugged.
Good luck!
03-27-2010, 08:38 AM
#8
Its a kyosho
Plastic will eventually break no matter what its called. 8 years of rc 3 years of electric then nitro experience will say " All cars break." Kyosho parts are cheaper. Although I will say I have owned a serpent 720, I broke something everytime I tapped the wall. Just Goes to show some are better than others. In my opionion the xray nt1 which I also own is just as durable as the rrr/rrr evo.2. Just replace the old brittle stuff. Hope that helps.
03-27-2010, 08:59 AM
#9
Question
I still have an original RRR WC that the only things I have changed from stock are the chassis, and items that I have either broken, or wore out.
Original shocks, top plate and probably 90% of the car is original.'I of course have broken arms, knuckles, hubs and such, but I have not upgraded anything other than the chassis.
I still run the hell out of it, and see no reason to change anything.
I also have a Mugen MTX4R, but run the RRR much more than the Mugen.
Still think the original RRR WC is a great car.
I was fourtunate to come across a huge amount of new parts a while back, and have been able to use these without going to any shops to purchase parts as they wore out or broke
Original shocks, top plate and probably 90% of the car is original.'I of course have broken arms, knuckles, hubs and such, but I have not upgraded anything other than the chassis.
I still run the hell out of it, and see no reason to change anything.
I also have a Mugen MTX4R, but run the RRR much more than the Mugen.
Still think the original RRR WC is a great car.
I was fourtunate to come across a huge amount of new parts a while back, and have been able to use these without going to any shops to purchase parts as they wore out or broke
03-27-2010, 10:49 AM
#10
According to most, the Evolva shocks are a big improvement. 
I really can't assess the condition of the car based on his posts. If he just rebuilds the car, replaces any worn or damaged parts, uses a setup system and gets in some practice, he may be good to go.
I'm sure we all agree, WC versions of RRR are always "better" than just the standard ones. If a person has deep pockets, then the Shimo is probably a really nice ride. If the RRR places in the top 3 at the upcoming world championships, I'm sure we'll see some new WC car on the market shortly after the race.
I really can't assess the condition of the car based on his posts. If he just rebuilds the car, replaces any worn or damaged parts, uses a setup system and gets in some practice, he may be good to go.
I'm sure we all agree, WC versions of RRR are always "better" than just the standard ones. If a person has deep pockets, then the Shimo is probably a really nice ride. If the RRR places in the top 3 at the upcoming world championships, I'm sure we'll see some new WC car on the market shortly after the race.
03-27-2010, 12:03 PM
#11
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I thought the Evolva shocks are a big improvement. Not only because of allowing you to use the newer springs and original springs, but also the bladders don't get sucked into the bodies or cut. It is also nice to have two sets of shocks.
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