3LikesTeam Magic G4RS 2009
07-23-2009, 03:41 PM
#406
Hope this helps you. Just be sure you don't get any sealant down into your diff gears though
07-23-2009, 06:57 PM
#407
Tech Master
iTrader: (26)
Join Date: Dec 2005
Location: (Holiday, Fl.) (CST.Allentown, Pa.)
Posts: 1,314
Trader Rating: 26 (100%+)
i will getting my g4rs 09 saturday 
07-24-2009, 12:03 AM
#408
Tech Adept
Thread Starter
The car is definitely worth buying... cracked diff case is all my fault!!
Thanks to all that took the time to offer advise on my diff problem!!
I will use your tips and let you know how they work for me.
Only a few hours before I hit the highway heading to my weekend race!!
Can't wait to run my car!!
07-24-2009, 02:19 AM
#409
The car is definitely worth buying... cracked diff case is all my fault!!
Thanks to all that took the time to offer advise on my diff problem!!
I will use your tips and let you know how they work for me.
Only a few hours before I hit the highway heading to my weekend race!!
Can't wait to run my car!!
Thanks to all that took the time to offer advise on my diff problem!!
I will use your tips and let you know how they work for me.
Only a few hours before I hit the highway heading to my weekend race!!
Can't wait to run my car!!
tell us how everything goes and what setup works for you.
07-24-2009, 03:46 AM
#410
Tech Apprentice
Whats a .12 good engine, and affordable which is good for G4RS?
07-24-2009, 10:03 AM
#411
From redrc.net:
Top 10 after round 1 of qualifying
1. Dario Balestri - Team Magic/Novarossi - 26 Laps in 07:12.928
2. Francesco Tironi - Mugen/Sirio - 26 Laps in 07:14.052
3. Niki Duina - Xray/Max - 26 Laps in 07:15.490
4. Giuseppe D’angelo - Mugen/Reds - 25 Laps in 06:58.823
5. Biagio Spataro - Xray/JP - 25 Laps in 07:00.433
6. Kyle Branson - Serpent/Sirio - 25 Laps in 07:01.058
7. Jerome Renaux - Xray/Novarossi - 25 Laps in 07:01.095
8. Giorgio De Felici - Xray/Max - 25 Laps in 07:02.033
9. Alexander Hagberg - Xray/Max - 25 Laps in 07:02.102
10. Dirk Wischnewski - Xray/Novarossi - 25 Laps in 07:03.112
Balestri said his Team Magic felt good but in the later part of his run the clutch loosened causing his G4RS 09 to be very slow out of the corners.
http://events.redrc.net/
Looking good so far!!! Smoked the competition despite the clutch trouble!!
Top 10 after round 1 of qualifying
1. Dario Balestri - Team Magic/Novarossi - 26 Laps in 07:12.928
2. Francesco Tironi - Mugen/Sirio - 26 Laps in 07:14.052
3. Niki Duina - Xray/Max - 26 Laps in 07:15.490
4. Giuseppe D’angelo - Mugen/Reds - 25 Laps in 06:58.823
5. Biagio Spataro - Xray/JP - 25 Laps in 07:00.433
6. Kyle Branson - Serpent/Sirio - 25 Laps in 07:01.058
7. Jerome Renaux - Xray/Novarossi - 25 Laps in 07:01.095
8. Giorgio De Felici - Xray/Max - 25 Laps in 07:02.033
9. Alexander Hagberg - Xray/Max - 25 Laps in 07:02.102
10. Dirk Wischnewski - Xray/Novarossi - 25 Laps in 07:03.112
Balestri said his Team Magic felt good but in the later part of his run the clutch loosened causing his G4RS 09 to be very slow out of the corners.
http://events.redrc.net/
Looking good so far!!! Smoked the competition despite the clutch trouble!!
07-24-2009, 10:28 AM
#413
Here's to hoping Murphy's Law doesn't kick in when the racing starts. I wish this were on LiveRC or something.
07-24-2009, 10:49 AM
#414
Euros
Chiefy this Chet, from Oakland. Nel sent me this you can watch live action from euros http://www.modellismoinpista.com/xracer3/
07-24-2009, 11:09 AM
#415
Hey what's up Chet! Hey thanks for the link! Although the Live portion is currently offline, very nice!
07-24-2009, 03:08 PM
#416
Kfactory parts
we should have some of the following Kfactory parts by the end of next week.
K14200 G4RS Alum. 7075 Rear Lower Hinge Pin Mount Set (w/ washer)
K14201 G4RS Alum. 7075 Front Upper Hinge Pin Mount (1 pair, w/ washer)
K14203 ZF Belt S3M-204
K14204 ZF Belt S3M-360
K14205 ZF Belt S3M-186
K14206 G4 Alum. Front Anti-Roll Bar Mount
K14207 G4 High Grip Clutch Shoe
K14208 G4 Push Type Teflon Clutch Centrifugal Shoe
www.machinaria.com
K14200 G4RS Alum. 7075 Rear Lower Hinge Pin Mount Set (w/ washer)
K14201 G4RS Alum. 7075 Front Upper Hinge Pin Mount (1 pair, w/ washer)
K14203 ZF Belt S3M-204
K14204 ZF Belt S3M-360
K14205 ZF Belt S3M-186
K14206 G4 Alum. Front Anti-Roll Bar Mount
K14207 G4 High Grip Clutch Shoe
K14208 G4 Push Type Teflon Clutch Centrifugal Shoe
www.machinaria.com
07-24-2009, 10:27 PM
#417
Tech Adept
Thread Starter
I am happy to report that all my concerns regarding the rear diff are gone!!!
I have no leaks whatsoever. I left the diff alone just to see how it went, stress lines included, and despite my abuse, not one single drop of silicon oil squeezed out!!!
I did not want to rebuild and re-seal the diff as I felt track time was imperative. I now feel there is no need to use any other seal but the thin o-ring included in the kit. It is very difficult to say when to stop thightening, but in all justice to TM, the diffs are good and any false alarm from my side is user error.
How do I know when the diff is tight enough?? I'd say that as soon as you start seeing the slightest bowing or warping of the cover, then stop...
Track is fairly low traction, long back straight-away (I think I said this before, haha!!) but very very flat and smooth surface. That allows me to run a quite stiff setting...
While I have yet to fill out a setup sheet, I can advance a few details.
Front:
Track: 199mm
Toe: 0°
Antiroll: 90°
Diff fluid: 100k
Front camber: 1.5° left and right
Front ride height: 5.5mm
Front droop: 2mm
Caster: 2mm spacer at the back, rest of spacers at the front
Tires: 40 shore RB
Offset:0
Shock spring: Orange, TM
Shock fluid: 90 wt Losi
Tower mounting: mid position
Arm mounting: outside
Steering ball end position: outside
Roll center: no shims
Piston: Stock
Ackerman: A
Rear:
Track: 200mm
Toe: 2°
Antiroll: Wire, stock
Diff fluid: 10k
Camber: 2.75° right, 3.25° left (there are mostly right handers)
Ride height: 6.5mm
Droop: 4mm
Tires: 40 shore RB
Offset:0
Shock spring: Purple, Serpent
Shock fluid: 90 wt Losi
Tower mounting: lowest
Arm mounting: outside
Piston: Stock
Camber at tower: inside, upper (lowest roll center for low traction)
Camber at upright: no shims (again, lowest roll center)
Wheelbase: 258mm
Body: DNA Protoform, wing as far back as possible
Gear ratios 1st 17/62; 2nd 23/56 (long straights)
Clutch spring: green stock
Clutch shoe: stock
Clearance: .6mm
Engine: Novarossi 353 '09
Head Shim: .5mm
Plug: 7 cold
Fuel: Maxy's 40% (high altitude, about 1600 m)
Muffler: Skyline plus 2, outlaw (we are allowed to use outlaw pipes here)
Carb Dia: 5.4mm
I am getting nearly 6 min of run time.
I am running 90 wt Losi shock oil, front orange TM springs, which are fairly strong. I am using Serpent purple springs at the back.
To make up for the lack of grip, I am using 10k silicon in the back diff, 100k at the front diff, stock wheelbase,
I had a problem with the shocks, but please make no false alarm of this for the time being. In order to avoid wasting time, I went ahead and used some old TM shocks I had in my tool box, but with the new threaded shock shafts. Since the bodies of the new shocks are longer, I had to improvise and use Kyosho ball ends and cups to make up for the length difference and not have droop problems.
I like my front wheels to turn as parallel as possible, thus the A ackermen setting and outside hole on the steering knuckles, aggresive caster, as little rear toe as possible and neutral front toe. These are just my preference here and work very well at low traction.
My cars tend to be rather neutral at turn-in because I do not want to give up mid-corner and out-of-corner steering. 10k rear diff would cause on-power understeering in all but low traction conditions, but I lack no steering, on or off power. I am sure you understand that my conclusions cannot be absolute and do not apply to all tracks out there.
All in all, I had a blast today and I am really impressed with with the car's handling on its first outing for me!!
My RRR is sitting out for now and I am afraid it is going to end up at a corner for good!
Last edited by gtrmx; 07-24-2009 at 10:48 PM.
07-25-2009, 02:24 AM
#418
These springs look a little Mugen like..
07-25-2009, 04:53 AM
#419
From redrc.net:
Top 10 after round 1 of qualifying
1. Dario Balestri - Team Magic/Novarossi - 26 Laps in 07:12.928
2. Francesco Tironi - Mugen/Sirio - 26 Laps in 07:14.052
3. Niki Duina - Xray/Max - 26 Laps in 07:15.490
4. Giuseppe D’angelo - Mugen/Reds - 25 Laps in 06:58.823
5. Biagio Spataro - Xray/JP - 25 Laps in 07:00.433
6. Kyle Branson - Serpent/Sirio - 25 Laps in 07:01.058
7. Jerome Renaux - Xray/Novarossi - 25 Laps in 07:01.095
8. Giorgio De Felici - Xray/Max - 25 Laps in 07:02.033
9. Alexander Hagberg - Xray/Max - 25 Laps in 07:02.102
10. Dirk Wischnewski - Xray/Novarossi - 25 Laps in 07:03.112
Balestri said his Team Magic felt good but in the later part of his run the clutch loosened causing his G4RS 09 to be very slow out of the corners.
http://events.redrc.net/
Looking good so far!!! Smoked the competition despite the clutch trouble!!
Top 10 after round 1 of qualifying
1. Dario Balestri - Team Magic/Novarossi - 26 Laps in 07:12.928
2. Francesco Tironi - Mugen/Sirio - 26 Laps in 07:14.052
3. Niki Duina - Xray/Max - 26 Laps in 07:15.490
4. Giuseppe D’angelo - Mugen/Reds - 25 Laps in 06:58.823
5. Biagio Spataro - Xray/JP - 25 Laps in 07:00.433
6. Kyle Branson - Serpent/Sirio - 25 Laps in 07:01.058
7. Jerome Renaux - Xray/Novarossi - 25 Laps in 07:01.095
8. Giorgio De Felici - Xray/Max - 25 Laps in 07:02.033
9. Alexander Hagberg - Xray/Max - 25 Laps in 07:02.102
10. Dirk Wischnewski - Xray/Novarossi - 25 Laps in 07:03.112
Balestri said his Team Magic felt good but in the later part of his run the clutch loosened causing his G4RS 09 to be very slow out of the corners.
http://events.redrc.net/
Looking good so far!!! Smoked the competition despite the clutch trouble!!
07-25-2009, 04:57 AM
#420
EXCELLENT!!
Happy to report that the car is working great!!!!!!!! In all honestly, I have been to this track before and I never had such a great handling car!!!
I am happy to report that all my concerns regarding the rear diff are gone!!!
I have no leaks whatsoever. I left the diff alone just to see how it went, stress lines included, and despite my abuse, not one single drop of silicon oil squeezed out!!!
I did not want to rebuild and re-seal the diff as I felt track time was imperative. I now feel there is no need to use any other seal but the thin o-ring included in the kit. It is very difficult to say when to stop thightening, but in all justice to TM, the diffs are good and any false alarm from my side is user error.
How do I know when the diff is tight enough?? I'd say that as soon as you start seeing the slightest bowing or warping of the cover, then stop...
Track is fairly low traction, long back straight-away (I think I said this before, haha!!) but very very flat and smooth surface. That allows me to run a quite stiff setting...
While I have yet to fill out a setup sheet, I can advance a few details.
Front:
Track: 199mm
Toe: 0°
Antiroll: 90°
Diff fluid: 100k
Front camber: 1.5° left and right
Front ride height: 5.5mm
Front droop: 2mm
Caster: 2mm spacer at the back, rest of spacers at the front
Tires: 40 shore RB
Offset:0
Shock spring: Orange, TM
Shock fluid: 90 wt Losi
Tower mounting: mid position
Arm mounting: outside
Steering ball end position: outside
Roll center: no shims
Piston: Stock
Ackerman: A
Rear:
Track: 200mm
Toe: 2°
Antiroll: Wire, stock
Diff fluid: 10k
Camber: 2.75° right, 3.25° left (there are mostly right handers)
Ride height: 6.5mm
Droop: 4mm
Tires: 40 shore RB
Offset:0
Shock spring: Purple, Serpent
Shock fluid: 90 wt Losi
Tower mounting: lowest
Arm mounting: outside
Piston: Stock
Camber at tower: inside, upper (lowest roll center for low traction)
Camber at upright: no shims (again, lowest roll center)
Wheelbase: 258mm
Body: DNA Protoform, wing as far back as possible
Gear ratios 1st 17/62; 2nd 23/56 (long straights)
Clutch spring: green stock
Clutch shoe: stock
Clearance: .6mm
Engine: Novarossi 353 '09
Head Shim: .5mm
Plug: 7 cold
Fuel: Maxy's 40% (high altitude, about 1600 m)
Muffler: Skyline plus 2, outlaw (we are allowed to use outlaw pipes here)
Carb Dia: 5.4mm
I am getting nearly 6 min of run time.
I am running 90 wt Losi shock oil, front orange TM springs, which are fairly strong. I am using Serpent purple springs at the back.
To make up for the lack of grip, I am using 10k silicon in the back diff, 100k at the front diff, stock wheelbase,
I had a problem with the shocks, but please make no false alarm of this for the time being. In order to avoid wasting time, I went ahead and used some old TM shocks I had in my tool box, but with the new threaded shock shafts. Since the bodies of the new shocks are longer, I had to improvise and use Kyosho ball ends and cups to make up for the length difference and not have droop problems.
I like my front wheels to turn as parallel as possible, thus the A ackermen setting and outside hole on the steering knuckles, aggresive caster, as little rear toe as possible and neutral front toe. These are just my preference here and work very well at low traction.
My cars tend to be rather neutral at turn-in because I do not want to give up mid-corner and out-of-corner steering. 10k rear diff would cause on-power understeering in all but low traction conditions, but I lack no steering, on or off power. I am sure you understand that my conclusions cannot be absolute and do not apply to all tracks out there.
All in all, I had a blast today and I am really impressed with with the car's handling on its first outing for me!!
My RRR is sitting out for now and I am afraid it is going to end up at a corner for good!
I am happy to report that all my concerns regarding the rear diff are gone!!!
I have no leaks whatsoever. I left the diff alone just to see how it went, stress lines included, and despite my abuse, not one single drop of silicon oil squeezed out!!!
I did not want to rebuild and re-seal the diff as I felt track time was imperative. I now feel there is no need to use any other seal but the thin o-ring included in the kit. It is very difficult to say when to stop thightening, but in all justice to TM, the diffs are good and any false alarm from my side is user error.
How do I know when the diff is tight enough?? I'd say that as soon as you start seeing the slightest bowing or warping of the cover, then stop...
Track is fairly low traction, long back straight-away (I think I said this before, haha!!) but very very flat and smooth surface. That allows me to run a quite stiff setting...
While I have yet to fill out a setup sheet, I can advance a few details.
Front:
Track: 199mm
Toe: 0°
Antiroll: 90°
Diff fluid: 100k
Front camber: 1.5° left and right
Front ride height: 5.5mm
Front droop: 2mm
Caster: 2mm spacer at the back, rest of spacers at the front
Tires: 40 shore RB
Offset:0
Shock spring: Orange, TM
Shock fluid: 90 wt Losi
Tower mounting: mid position
Arm mounting: outside
Steering ball end position: outside
Roll center: no shims
Piston: Stock
Ackerman: A
Rear:
Track: 200mm
Toe: 2°
Antiroll: Wire, stock
Diff fluid: 10k
Camber: 2.75° right, 3.25° left (there are mostly right handers)
Ride height: 6.5mm
Droop: 4mm
Tires: 40 shore RB
Offset:0
Shock spring: Purple, Serpent
Shock fluid: 90 wt Losi
Tower mounting: lowest
Arm mounting: outside
Piston: Stock
Camber at tower: inside, upper (lowest roll center for low traction)
Camber at upright: no shims (again, lowest roll center)
Wheelbase: 258mm
Body: DNA Protoform, wing as far back as possible
Gear ratios 1st 17/62; 2nd 23/56 (long straights)
Clutch spring: green stock
Clutch shoe: stock
Clearance: .6mm
Engine: Novarossi 353 '09
Head Shim: .5mm
Plug: 7 cold
Fuel: Maxy's 40% (high altitude, about 1600 m)
Muffler: Skyline plus 2, outlaw (we are allowed to use outlaw pipes here)
Carb Dia: 5.4mm
I am getting nearly 6 min of run time.
I am running 90 wt Losi shock oil, front orange TM springs, which are fairly strong. I am using Serpent purple springs at the back.
To make up for the lack of grip, I am using 10k silicon in the back diff, 100k at the front diff, stock wheelbase,
I had a problem with the shocks, but please make no false alarm of this for the time being. In order to avoid wasting time, I went ahead and used some old TM shocks I had in my tool box, but with the new threaded shock shafts. Since the bodies of the new shocks are longer, I had to improvise and use Kyosho ball ends and cups to make up for the length difference and not have droop problems.
I like my front wheels to turn as parallel as possible, thus the A ackermen setting and outside hole on the steering knuckles, aggresive caster, as little rear toe as possible and neutral front toe. These are just my preference here and work very well at low traction.
My cars tend to be rather neutral at turn-in because I do not want to give up mid-corner and out-of-corner steering. 10k rear diff would cause on-power understeering in all but low traction conditions, but I lack no steering, on or off power. I am sure you understand that my conclusions cannot be absolute and do not apply to all tracks out there.
All in all, I had a blast today and I am really impressed with with the car's handling on its first outing for me!!
My RRR is sitting out for now and I am afraid it is going to end up at a corner for good!
Sadly my RRR is been sitting on the side for a while also. I will have to pass it down. I will be getting my 733 sometime next week and I'll let you guys know how it compares to the G4. So far I am deep on the G4RS09 it is just such an AWESOME car!!!!!