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Old 07-23-2009, 04:41 PM   #406
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gtrmx View Post
They use the thin o-ring.

I loved the big gasket that used to come with the diffs but it is gone now.

Thanks for the tip! It sounds tricky but I may have to give it a try...
I thought so too but once you do it it's easy. Build the diffs as you normally would. Then only fill the oil up so it just covers the spider gears. I still put that pesky little o ring inside the diff cover where it normally sits. Then with a toothpick or a small flat head screwdriver put a small bead of sealent around the screw holes and on the face of the diff half where they screw together, so as to make a seal between the two. Then get the other half and put it on giving it a slight twist at the same time. Put all your screws back in tightening them up equally in a criss cross pattern and your done. I've sealed my nt1 diffs like this from day one and have never had a leaking diff Hope this helps you. Just be sure you don't get any sealant down into your diff gears though
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Old 07-23-2009, 07:57 PM   #407
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i will getting my g4rs 09 saturday
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Old 07-24-2009, 01:03 AM   #408
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Adrian! View Post
How's the car going? Its worth buying? The cracked diff case common?

The car is definitely worth buying... cracked diff case is all my fault!!

Thanks to all that took the time to offer advise on my diff problem!!

I will use your tips and let you know how they work for me.

Only a few hours before I hit the highway heading to my weekend race!!

Can't wait to run my car!!
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Old 07-24-2009, 03:19 AM   #409
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gtrmx View Post
The car is definitely worth buying... cracked diff case is all my fault!!

Thanks to all that took the time to offer advise on my diff problem!!

I will use your tips and let you know how they work for me.

Only a few hours before I hit the highway heading to my weekend race!!

Can't wait to run my car!!
good luck and make sure to put a little lube in your oneway
tell us how everything goes and what setup works for you.
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Old 07-24-2009, 04:46 AM   #410
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Whats a .12 good engine, and affordable which is good for G4RS?
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Old 07-24-2009, 11:03 AM   #411
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From redrc.net:

Top 10 after round 1 of qualifying
1. Dario Balestri - Team Magic/Novarossi - 26 Laps in 07:12.928
2. Francesco Tironi - Mugen/Sirio - 26 Laps in 07:14.052
3. Niki Duina - Xray/Max - 26 Laps in 07:15.490
4. Giuseppe D’angelo - Mugen/Reds - 25 Laps in 06:58.823
5. Biagio Spataro - Xray/JP - 25 Laps in 07:00.433
6. Kyle Branson - Serpent/Sirio - 25 Laps in 07:01.058
7. Jerome Renaux - Xray/Novarossi - 25 Laps in 07:01.095
8. Giorgio De Felici - Xray/Max - 25 Laps in 07:02.033
9. Alexander Hagberg - Xray/Max - 25 Laps in 07:02.102
10. Dirk Wischnewski - Xray/Novarossi - 25 Laps in 07:03.112


Balestri said his Team Magic felt good but in the later part of his run the clutch loosened causing his G4RS 09 to be very slow out of the corners.

http://events.redrc.net/



Looking good so far!!! Smoked the competition despite the clutch trouble!!
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Old 07-24-2009, 11:07 AM   #412
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Default Round1 Qualifiying

1.G4RS 09 TQ
2.MTX 4R
3.X-Ray NT1
4.MTX4R
5.X-RayNT1
6.S733
7.X-RayNT1
8.X-RayNT1
9.X-RayNT1
10.X-RayNT1
sorry man i see you got it out 1st
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Old 07-24-2009, 11:28 AM   #413
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Here's to hoping Murphy's Law doesn't kick in when the racing starts. I wish this were on LiveRC or something.
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Old 07-24-2009, 11:49 AM   #414
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Default Euros

Chiefy this Chet, from Oakland. Nel sent me this you can watch live action from euros http://www.modellismoinpista.com/xracer3/
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Old 07-24-2009, 12:09 PM   #415
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Hey what's up Chet! Hey thanks for the link! Although the Live portion is currently offline, very nice!
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Old 07-24-2009, 04:08 PM   #416
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Default Kfactory parts

we should have some of the following Kfactory parts by the end of next week.
K14200 G4RS Alum. 7075 Rear Lower Hinge Pin Mount Set (w/ washer)
K14201 G4RS Alum. 7075 Front Upper Hinge Pin Mount (1 pair, w/ washer)
K14203 ZF Belt S3M-204
K14204 ZF Belt S3M-360
K14205 ZF Belt S3M-186
K14206 G4 Alum. Front Anti-Roll Bar Mount
K14207 G4 High Grip Clutch Shoe
K14208 G4 Push Type Teflon Clutch Centrifugal Shoe

www.machinaria.com
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Old 07-24-2009, 11:27 PM   #417
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Quote:
Originally Posted by aizenbelle View Post
good luck and make sure to put a little lube in your oneway
tell us how everything goes and what setup works for you.
Happy to report that the car is working great!!!!!!!! In all honestly, I have been to this track before and I never had such a great handling car!!!

I am happy to report that all my concerns regarding the rear diff are gone!!!

I have no leaks whatsoever. I left the diff alone just to see how it went, stress lines included, and despite my abuse, not one single drop of silicon oil squeezed out!!!

I did not want to rebuild and re-seal the diff as I felt track time was imperative. I now feel there is no need to use any other seal but the thin o-ring included in the kit. It is very difficult to say when to stop thightening, but in all justice to TM, the diffs are good and any false alarm from my side is user error.

How do I know when the diff is tight enough?? I'd say that as soon as you start seeing the slightest bowing or warping of the cover, then stop...

Track is fairly low traction, long back straight-away (I think I said this before, haha!!) but very very flat and smooth surface. That allows me to run a quite stiff setting...

While I have yet to fill out a setup sheet, I can advance a few details.

Front:

Track: 199mm
Toe: 0°
Antiroll: 90°
Diff fluid: 100k
Front camber: 1.5° left and right
Front ride height: 5.5mm
Front droop: 2mm
Caster: 2mm spacer at the back, rest of spacers at the front
Tires: 40 shore RB
Offset:0
Shock spring: Orange, TM
Shock fluid: 90 wt Losi
Tower mounting: mid position
Arm mounting: outside
Steering ball end position: outside
Roll center: no shims
Piston: Stock
Ackerman: A


Rear:

Track: 200mm
Toe: 2°
Antiroll: Wire, stock
Diff fluid: 10k
Camber: 2.75° right, 3.25° left (there are mostly right handers)
Ride height: 6.5mm
Droop: 4mm
Tires: 40 shore RB
Offset:0
Shock spring: Purple, Serpent
Shock fluid: 90 wt Losi
Tower mounting: lowest
Arm mounting: outside
Piston: Stock
Camber at tower: inside, upper (lowest roll center for low traction)
Camber at upright: no shims (again, lowest roll center)

Wheelbase: 258mm
Body: DNA Protoform, wing as far back as possible

Gear ratios 1st 17/62; 2nd 23/56 (long straights)
Clutch spring: green stock
Clutch shoe: stock
Clearance: .6mm
Engine: Novarossi 353 '09
Head Shim: .5mm
Plug: 7 cold
Fuel: Maxy's 40% (high altitude, about 1600 m)
Muffler: Skyline plus 2, outlaw (we are allowed to use outlaw pipes here)
Carb Dia: 5.4mm

I am getting nearly 6 min of run time.

I am running 90 wt Losi shock oil, front orange TM springs, which are fairly strong. I am using Serpent purple springs at the back.

To make up for the lack of grip, I am using 10k silicon in the back diff, 100k at the front diff, stock wheelbase,

I had a problem with the shocks, but please make no false alarm of this for the time being. In order to avoid wasting time, I went ahead and used some old TM shocks I had in my tool box, but with the new threaded shock shafts. Since the bodies of the new shocks are longer, I had to improvise and use Kyosho ball ends and cups to make up for the length difference and not have droop problems.

I like my front wheels to turn as parallel as possible, thus the A ackermen setting and outside hole on the steering knuckles, aggresive caster, as little rear toe as possible and neutral front toe. These are just my preference here and work very well at low traction.

My cars tend to be rather neutral at turn-in because I do not want to give up mid-corner and out-of-corner steering. 10k rear diff would cause on-power understeering in all but low traction conditions, but I lack no steering, on or off power. I am sure you understand that my conclusions cannot be absolute and do not apply to all tracks out there.

All in all, I had a blast today and I am really impressed with with the car's handling on its first outing for me!!

My RRR is sitting out for now and I am afraid it is going to end up at a corner for good!

Last edited by gtrmx; 07-24-2009 at 11:48 PM.
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Old 07-25-2009, 03:24 AM   #418
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Default These springs look a little Mugen like..

http://events.redrc.net/wp-content/g...ritmg4ii-1.jpg

Opinions on TM springs?
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Old 07-25-2009, 05:53 AM   #419
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Quote:
Originally Posted by PrimeAKF11 View Post
From redrc.net:

Top 10 after round 1 of qualifying
1. Dario Balestri - Team Magic/Novarossi - 26 Laps in 07:12.928
2. Francesco Tironi - Mugen/Sirio - 26 Laps in 07:14.052
3. Niki Duina - Xray/Max - 26 Laps in 07:15.490
4. Giuseppe D’angelo - Mugen/Reds - 25 Laps in 06:58.823
5. Biagio Spataro - Xray/JP - 25 Laps in 07:00.433
6. Kyle Branson - Serpent/Sirio - 25 Laps in 07:01.058
7. Jerome Renaux - Xray/Novarossi - 25 Laps in 07:01.095
8. Giorgio De Felici - Xray/Max - 25 Laps in 07:02.033
9. Alexander Hagberg - Xray/Max - 25 Laps in 07:02.102
10. Dirk Wischnewski - Xray/Novarossi - 25 Laps in 07:03.112


Balestri said his Team Magic felt good but in the later part of his run the clutch loosened causing his G4RS 09 to be very slow out of the corners.

http://events.redrc.net/



Looking good so far!!! Smoked the competition despite the clutch trouble!!
Wow!!!
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RRR WC (For sale!!)
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G4RS 09' (IT'S FINALLY HERE!!!!!) Serpent 733 put on hold!!
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Old 07-25-2009, 05:57 AM   #420
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Talking EXCELLENT!!

Quote:
Originally Posted by gtrmx View Post
Happy to report that the car is working great!!!!!!!! In all honestly, I have been to this track before and I never had such a great handling car!!!

I am happy to report that all my concerns regarding the rear diff are gone!!!

I have no leaks whatsoever. I left the diff alone just to see how it went, stress lines included, and despite my abuse, not one single drop of silicon oil squeezed out!!!

I did not want to rebuild and re-seal the diff as I felt track time was imperative. I now feel there is no need to use any other seal but the thin o-ring included in the kit. It is very difficult to say when to stop thightening, but in all justice to TM, the diffs are good and any false alarm from my side is user error.

How do I know when the diff is tight enough?? I'd say that as soon as you start seeing the slightest bowing or warping of the cover, then stop...

Track is fairly low traction, long back straight-away (I think I said this before, haha!!) but very very flat and smooth surface. That allows me to run a quite stiff setting...

While I have yet to fill out a setup sheet, I can advance a few details.

Front:

Track: 199mm
Toe: 0°
Antiroll: 90°
Diff fluid: 100k
Front camber: 1.5° left and right
Front ride height: 5.5mm
Front droop: 2mm
Caster: 2mm spacer at the back, rest of spacers at the front
Tires: 40 shore RB
Offset:0
Shock spring: Orange, TM
Shock fluid: 90 wt Losi
Tower mounting: mid position
Arm mounting: outside
Steering ball end position: outside
Roll center: no shims
Piston: Stock
Ackerman: A


Rear:

Track: 200mm
Toe: 2°
Antiroll: Wire, stock
Diff fluid: 10k
Camber: 2.75° right, 3.25° left (there are mostly right handers)
Ride height: 6.5mm
Droop: 4mm
Tires: 40 shore RB
Offset:0
Shock spring: Purple, Serpent
Shock fluid: 90 wt Losi
Tower mounting: lowest
Arm mounting: outside
Piston: Stock
Camber at tower: inside, upper (lowest roll center for low traction)
Camber at upright: no shims (again, lowest roll center)

Wheelbase: 258mm
Body: DNA Protoform, wing as far back as possible

Gear ratios 1st 17/62; 2nd 23/56 (long straights)
Clutch spring: green stock
Clutch shoe: stock
Clearance: .6mm
Engine: Novarossi 353 '09
Head Shim: .5mm
Plug: 7 cold
Fuel: Maxy's 40% (high altitude, about 1600 m)
Muffler: Skyline plus 2, outlaw (we are allowed to use outlaw pipes here)
Carb Dia: 5.4mm

I am getting nearly 6 min of run time.

I am running 90 wt Losi shock oil, front orange TM springs, which are fairly strong. I am using Serpent purple springs at the back.

To make up for the lack of grip, I am using 10k silicon in the back diff, 100k at the front diff, stock wheelbase,

I had a problem with the shocks, but please make no false alarm of this for the time being. In order to avoid wasting time, I went ahead and used some old TM shocks I had in my tool box, but with the new threaded shock shafts. Since the bodies of the new shocks are longer, I had to improvise and use Kyosho ball ends and cups to make up for the length difference and not have droop problems.

I like my front wheels to turn as parallel as possible, thus the A ackermen setting and outside hole on the steering knuckles, aggresive caster, as little rear toe as possible and neutral front toe. These are just my preference here and work very well at low traction.

My cars tend to be rather neutral at turn-in because I do not want to give up mid-corner and out-of-corner steering. 10k rear diff would cause on-power understeering in all but low traction conditions, but I lack no steering, on or off power. I am sure you understand that my conclusions cannot be absolute and do not apply to all tracks out there.

All in all, I had a blast today and I am really impressed with with the car's handling on its first outing for me!!

My RRR is sitting out for now and I am afraid it is going to end up at a corner for good!
that is a damn good writeup!!!
Sadly my RRR is been sitting on the side for a while also. I will have to pass it down. I will be getting my 733 sometime next week and I'll let you guys know how it compares to the G4. So far I am deep on the G4RS09 it is just such an AWESOME car!!!!!
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X_ray Nt_1 08
RRR WC (For sale!!)
G4+EVO
G4RS 09' (IT'S FINALLY HERE!!!!!) Serpent 733 put on hold!!
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