Serpent 710
09-09-2004, 11:04 PM
Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re parts
Originally posted by markp27
And what's with that piece of carbon on your car where the serpent part should be
And what's with that piece of carbon on your car where the serpent part should be
Where? Where? 
Originally posted by markp27
Maybe reduce the twisting force which is applied to the chassis. Heat transfer would be minimal.
Maybe reduce the twisting force which is applied to the chassis. Heat transfer would be minimal.
09-09-2004, 11:07 PM
Re: Re: The Hudy ultimate set-up set
Originally posted by Sow&Steady
I looked at the site earlier and couldn't find the link for them.
I looked at the site earlier and couldn't find the link for them.
part nr is 1082555
about the one-pice engine mount the Genuine orange serpent are in too 802552
09-09-2004, 11:18 PM
Re: Re: Re: The Hudy ultimate set-up set
Originally posted by border r/c
about the one-pice engine mount the Genuine orange serpent are in too 802552
about the one-pice engine mount the Genuine orange serpent are in too 802552
09-09-2004, 11:22 PM
Originally posted by InitialD
Yes, that's why Mark can get GSM connection on all of his cars.
Yes, that's why Mark can get GSM connection on all of his cars.
But, phew! 
at least you didn't mention the special batteries I've developed which enhance the car's performance uh oh! DOH!!
09-09-2004, 11:23 PM
Originally posted by InitialD
Is that a JP or a Kondo under the hood? 
Is that a JP or a Kondo under the hood?
09-09-2004, 11:30 PM
Re: Re: Re: Re: The Hudy ultimate set-up set
Originally posted by InitialD
Damn. I thought I could "escape" buying because it's not Serpent. Didn't know Serpent came out with one.
Damn. I thought I could "escape" buying because it's not Serpent. Didn't know Serpent came out with one.
09-10-2004, 04:08 AM
Originally posted by InitialD
PCM and HRS supports both failsafe (lock throttle servo and / or steering servo) on loss or corruption of signal or weak receiver pack (4.8 V instead of 6 V). Not in PPM mode.
PCM and HRS supports both failsafe (lock throttle servo and / or steering servo) on loss or corruption of signal or weak receiver pack (4.8 V instead of 6 V). Not in PPM mode.
09-10-2004, 04:09 AM
Originally posted by InitialD
Yeah, wear a kilt or sarong and meditate in the Scottish hills.
Yeah, wear a kilt or sarong and meditate in the Scottish hills.
09-10-2004, 04:10 AM
Originally posted by InitialD
Are you sure it's due to the engine or just the fact about the car or lack of proper maintenance from the driver? I think a lot of people have put more powerful engines in other cars and never had problems like that. Ask Dennis Richey about powerful engines in 710.
Are you sure it's due to the engine or just the fact about the car or lack of proper maintenance from the driver?
I think a lot of people have put more powerful engines in other cars and never had problems like that. Ask Dennis Richey about powerful engines in 710.
09-10-2004, 04:13 AM
Re: Re: Speedy
Originally posted by InitialD
Everybody is running JP and Max engines nowadays... Making things worse by taking off carb restrictors...
Everybody is running JP and Max engines nowadays... Making things worse by taking off carb restrictors...
09-10-2004, 04:17 AM
Originally posted by InitialD
Bottom of the steering blocks as per the manual.
Are you getting inconsistant droop readings? Just a thought. It may be due to your worned out chassis.
On mine, I found that since I run on clockwise tracks, the left side of the chassis gets eaten out faster than the right side. So left side can be like 3.5 mm while the right side is 4 mm thick.
Putting the droop gauge block support under this worned out part and taking same droop readings left and right would give you less droop on the left than on the right side of the arm even though you set the droop on the droop gauge to be "equal" left and right.
Bottom of the steering blocks as per the manual.
Are you getting inconsistant droop readings? Just a thought. It may be due to your worned out chassis.
On mine, I found that since I run on clockwise tracks, the left side of the chassis gets eaten out faster than the right side. So left side can be like 3.5 mm while the right side is 4 mm thick.
Putting the droop gauge block support under this worned out part and taking same droop readings left and right would give you less droop on the left than on the right side of the arm even though you set the droop on the droop gauge to be "equal" left and right.
That's what happens if you keep insisting on running your car at 2mm ride height D!
Anyway, I think packetdreamer's car is relatively new though so there shouldn't be a problem.
09-10-2004, 04:19 AM
Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re parts
Originally posted by InitialD
Where? Where?
.... I analised my old chassis (and the current one that I'm using) and I found that the chassis bends directly under the engine. ...
Where? Where? .... I analised my old chassis (and the current one that I'm using) and I found that the chassis bends directly under the engine. ...
09-10-2004, 04:21 AM
Re: Re: Re: The Hudy ultimate set-up set
Originally posted by border r/c
hi SOW&STEADY
part nr is 1082555
about the one-pice engine mount the Genuine orange serpent are in too 802552
hi SOW&STEADY
part nr is 1082555
about the one-pice engine mount the Genuine orange serpent are in too 802552
Ah, thanks! I was exchanging emails with Herber on other things so I'll include this too. I already have the orange engine mount (not from Serpent but from East).
09-10-2004, 04:22 AM
Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: The Hudy ultimate set-up set
Originally posted by markp27
Tempting is the orange side of the force
Tempting is the orange side of the force
09-10-2004, 04:30 AM
Originally posted by InitialD
Bottom of the steering blocks as per the manual.
Are you getting inconsistant droop readings? Just a thought. It may be due to your worned out chassis.
On mine, I found that since I run on clockwise tracks, the left side of the chassis gets eaten out faster than the right side. So left side can be like 3.5 mm while the right side is 4 mm thick.
Putting the droop gauge block support under this worned out part and taking same droop readings left and right would give you less droop on the left than on the right side of the arm even though you set the droop on the droop gauge to be "equal" left and right.
Bottom of the steering blocks as per the manual.
Are you getting inconsistant droop readings? Just a thought. It may be due to your worned out chassis.
On mine, I found that since I run on clockwise tracks, the left side of the chassis gets eaten out faster than the right side. So left side can be like 3.5 mm while the right side is 4 mm thick.
Putting the droop gauge block support under this worned out part and taking same droop readings left and right would give you less droop on the left than on the right side of the arm even though you set the droop on the droop gauge to be "equal" left and right.
s&s is right, car is relatively new, i don't have a problem with chassis shaving... but at least now i know what to watch for