Pattojnr

iTrader: (19)

here Keavze.

a pic is easier to look at and understand, lol.

keavze

hey paul thanks for yr pic.
here's mine.
i've used the lower hole in the center carbon piece. upper holes on both the hubs and the left/right bodymount.

comparing our pictures on the bodymount setup, any diff to the car's handling?

Team Kamikaze

iTrader: (3)

With Pattojnr's rear bodymount set up the car will be more stable everywhere.

Pattojnr

iTrader: (19)

i had many problems getting it setup right. and it gets worse when you shorten the rear wheelbase.

where you have it setup for the body support posts, you have to be carefull that the plastic bracket doesnt touch the rear belt at all, to have it the way i have mine, it gets the rear of the body higher, so you will have more high speed downforce, but you can still have that with your setup , with the gurney strip sitting higher than i would have mine.
personally i will make a 3rd hole between the 2 on the shock tower .
when you shorten the rear wheel base, make sure you space out the plastic bracket from the body mount 2 or 3mm so the guide doesnt pop out in a crash. than the body will be uneven and you will have no suspension on the rear, untill it gets popped back in.

Charles Godwin

iTrader: (2)

What size do you true down your tyres to? Tracks i'm going to be running on now are generally slightly lower grip due to the temperatures...if i wanted more steering would it be a option to cut the fronts even more?

Cheers, Chaz

M7H

Chaz,
Do you suffer from understeer then?
I mean, did you already run the car?
No?, then I would first run it, and come back later...

And to give answer, true them with a split of 7mm between rear and front.
I even prefer 6mm split......

Charles Godwin

iTrader: (2)

Well no i haven't yet but i do like a loose car and would like to get as much info before i do hit the track :P

NitroWD

iTrader: (5)

what's the minimum split that we should not run the tires to?

by the way, how do we 'cure' off power understeer? running stock setup...anyone using stock setup understeering when off power?

Charles Godwin

iTrader: (2)

I personally would try running less castor to allow more weight transfer off power. Or you could possibly try a shorter rear link, that has usually helped me out in the past. There are many things to try. Softer front shock oil/harder rear shock oil. Ummm the rear wing possibly have it a lower downforce setting Or put more droop on the rear again allowing more weight transfer to the front.

Chaz

Pattojnr

iTrader: (19)

i have tried many things, on a track with fairly low grip, i use front green spring, red long rear. i disconnect the front swaybar, and run -1 front droop and 6 rear droop. the rear isnt snappy, but just overall more steering everywhere. i also run the car full short rear, and 2mm short front wheelbase.
also body type is important. i use the blitz R09. most other blitz, lola 06/05 tend to not have the steering that i was looking for. but the R09 is just right.

just to make sure guys, the rear end setup of the body links are very important. make sure you remove your shocks, and make sure you get full droop, and full travel (till chassis hits the setup board with tyres on)
if there is any binding in the rear body post guide or support arms, then it will be binding your rear suspension.

M7H

I believe 6.5mm gives a front/rear ratio of 1
6mm split give a bit more front wheel drive
7mm split give a bit more rear wheel drive

Going smaller then 6mm split will result in even more front wheel drive and eventually in understeer, and fast front belt wear.
Going bigger then 7mm split will result in more rear wheel drive and eventually in oversteer.


As allready mentioned, change the caster angle by moving the front upper arm more forward.
Forward means more off power steering into a corner
Backward means more on power steering out of a corner

Brian Bosley

iTrader: (13)

I am a bit short on oil for practice this weekend and I was wondering if you guys knew what was close to serpent 50wt or possibly 2250cst. Being new to 8th scale onroad, I only have 1000,2000,3000 from mugen left over from offroad so would the 2000 be at least in the ballpark? I read a figure that stated #800 mugen was 895cst.

Even the Xceed 1500cst seemed extremely thick for shock oil for the fronts, but supposedly it is near serpent 45wt.

Team Kamikaze

iTrader: (3)

Serpent 30W is 350 CST
Serpent 35W is 600 CST
Serpent 40W is 1000 CST
Serpent 45W is 1400 CST
Serpent 50W is 2000 CST

Hope this helps.

Brian Bosley

iTrader: (13)

Too bad mugen doesn't rate in CST, hopefully it is close if 800 is close to 900 perhaps 2000 is close to 2300..

Team Kamikaze

iTrader: (3)

Mugen's silicone oil numbers are CST.