HPI R40 Nitro Car Forum
#1906
Originally posted by nero1943
Hi guys,
I ordered a R40 a week ago and I just realize there's a new 2004 version comming out I am new with on road and I currently own a RS4 Evo. Should I just sell the R40 and pratice with my RS4? Needless to say I will have to spend lots of $$$ to make it run. (very broke at moment) I might get into racing when I have better skill
How does the current R40 stock compare with MTX-3 with the same engine, mainfold, pipe, servos, etc???? I am asking because there's more MTX-3 parts than R40 locally.
Please help me out guys...
Hi guys,
I ordered a R40 a week ago and I just realize there's a new 2004 version comming out I am new with on road and I currently own a RS4 Evo. Should I just sell the R40 and pratice with my RS4? Needless to say I will have to spend lots of $$$ to make it run. (very broke at moment) I might get into racing when I have better skill
How does the current R40 stock compare with MTX-3 with the same engine, mainfold, pipe, servos, etc???? I am asking because there's more MTX-3 parts than R40 locally.
Please help me out guys...
Some years ago I have a brand new V1R at my track and this new guy rocked up with a V1RR and the latest motor at the time a JP RS12. I had some sort of side exhaust motor at the time. Anyway I was freaking out seeing this guy with all this awesome gear, but in the end he smashed the car into everything that track had to offer, boards, poles and even a tree. Sadly I never saw this guy ever agin at the track.
My R40 was ultra fast out of the box, but 90% of that performance would be wasted if the car is not built right.
#1907
Tech Apprentice
I guess I will keep the R40 and build from there. I guess with the new 2004 version of R40. I can probably get some cheap set from ebay in the future.
This is what I am thinkin to use with the R40:
R40
JR XS3
fuel filter
venom temp guage
venom fail safe
Custom 5 cell flat pack 1100mah
HPI SF-2 servo 90oz/.16sec @6v Throttle
Hitec 625MG Steering
motor saver filter
Novarossi NS12S3 or S5
no clue on what pipe and mainfold
anybody got any tips during the building process?? should I use stock diff oil? Also does the 4 spyder gear necessary? I did it on my savage and it feels better. ( probably just inside my head )
This is what I am thinkin to use with the R40:
R40
JR XS3
fuel filter
venom temp guage
venom fail safe
Custom 5 cell flat pack 1100mah
HPI SF-2 servo 90oz/.16sec @6v Throttle
Hitec 625MG Steering
motor saver filter
Novarossi NS12S3 or S5
no clue on what pipe and mainfold
anybody got any tips during the building process?? should I use stock diff oil? Also does the 4 spyder gear necessary? I did it on my savage and it feels better. ( probably just inside my head )
#1908
Tech Apprentice
Everything in that list is fine, except the steering servo. The Hitec 625MG will be the cause of your worst race day.
Buy a high end servo from a reliable brand such as Airtronics, JR, KO, or Futaba.
At 50 MPH, your steering servo is all you have. Don't go cheap there.
J
Buy a high end servo from a reliable brand such as Airtronics, JR, KO, or Futaba.
At 50 MPH, your steering servo is all you have. Don't go cheap there.
J
#1909
Hey Nero... Stick with the novarossi pipes... anyone will do, I have the inline pipe... you will need all the help you can get!!!
#1910
Tech Champion
iTrader: (17)
Originally posted by nero1943
Novarossi NS12S3 or S5
no clue on what pipe and mainfold
Novarossi NS12S3 or S5
no clue on what pipe and mainfold
I suggest OS TR engine or the new HPI engine that designed for R40 to start..................like your R40, once you get used to it and start racing, you can always do UPGRADES and OPTIONS.
You can upgrade your R40 to 2004 spec piece by piece.......so keep your R40 and do the upgrade later. who knows....when the time you are ready to race big time....it might be R50.
#1911
Regional Moderator
iTrader: (9)
Originally posted by nero1943
I guess I will keep the R40 and build from there. I guess with the new 2004 version of R40. I can probably get some cheap set from ebay in the future.
This is what I am thinkin to use with the R40:
R40
JR XS3
fuel filter
venom temp guage
venom fail safe
Custom 5 cell flat pack 1100mah
HPI SF-2 servo 90oz/.16sec @6v Throttle
Hitec 625MG Steering
motor saver filter
Novarossi NS12S3 or S5
no clue on what pipe and mainfold
anybody got any tips during the building process?? should I use stock diff oil? Also does the 4 spyder gear necessary? I did it on my savage and it feels better. ( probably just inside my head )
I guess I will keep the R40 and build from there. I guess with the new 2004 version of R40. I can probably get some cheap set from ebay in the future.
This is what I am thinkin to use with the R40:
R40
JR XS3
fuel filter
venom temp guage
venom fail safe
Custom 5 cell flat pack 1100mah
HPI SF-2 servo 90oz/.16sec @6v Throttle
Hitec 625MG Steering
motor saver filter
Novarossi NS12S3 or S5
no clue on what pipe and mainfold
anybody got any tips during the building process?? should I use stock diff oil? Also does the 4 spyder gear necessary? I did it on my savage and it feels better. ( probably just inside my head )
-Hitec 625MG. I would recommend against using the Hitec servo. I'm no Hitec hater, infact I use a Hitec Lynx3D as my radio. But to be honest, their servos aren't up to the level of the competition. If your looking to save some money but still go fast, Futaba has some digital servo's starting at $79.99 and KO has some great servos that start at $89.99.
Good luck...
#1913
Tech Champion
iTrader: (17)
http://www.hpiracing.co.jp/contents/shukka/0403.html
Japan released the R40 2004 spec in Japan on 03-11-2004....TODAY........well, let see when USA will have that, I am putting my money sometime this year.....LOL
Japan released the R40 2004 spec in Japan on 03-11-2004....TODAY........well, let see when USA will have that, I am putting my money sometime this year.....LOL
#1914
Tech Apprentice
Too bad the lifetime warranty doesn't cover the broken parts you're left with after the crash.
I have had 3 Hitec Servos fail. The first one would just stop responding for a fraction of a second. I replaced my receiver and transmitter, thinking that was the problem. Nope. The second, caused glitching, which was also hard to diagnose. For the third, I thought I would give them the benefit of the doubt and bought one of the high end digital servos Hitec offered, used it for 4 races and it was dead. $120 for 2 months.
I've been using JR and Futaba ever since with no problems.
I have had 3 Hitec Servos fail. The first one would just stop responding for a fraction of a second. I replaced my receiver and transmitter, thinking that was the problem. Nope. The second, caused glitching, which was also hard to diagnose. For the third, I thought I would give them the benefit of the doubt and bought one of the high end digital servos Hitec offered, used it for 4 races and it was dead. $120 for 2 months.
I've been using JR and Futaba ever since with no problems.
#1915
I use hitec and everyone dogs them but they seem to work for me.
as for the XS3:
Brand new out the box the receiver didn't work (shop replaced it)
Second receiver the steering channel didn't work (shop replaced it)
Now after 7 months the steering on the transmitter does not work
Also while I was at the local track another guys xs3 reciever went out
Not waiting for a frequency clip is cool but radio problems on race will drive you wild
ps anybody got some good suggestions for a radio system
as for the XS3:
Brand new out the box the receiver didn't work (shop replaced it)
Second receiver the steering channel didn't work (shop replaced it)
Now after 7 months the steering on the transmitter does not work
Also while I was at the local track another guys xs3 reciever went out
Not waiting for a frequency clip is cool but radio problems on race will drive you wild
ps anybody got some good suggestions for a radio system
#1916
Tech Champion
iTrader: (17)
3PK..........sometimes you just cannot save the money.
M8 is probably the best before the 3PK, but I like FUTABA more...
You can also think the latest KO Helio? It look like a space ship controller more then a RC controller.......but HARA use that, it won't be wrong.
My theory is........in the RC industry, your RADIO EQUIPPMENT is probably the BEST ITEM for everyone to invest.......and will last a LONG TIME too....
Before my 3PK, it was my Futaba BOX (forgot the model #) it is a pistol style with a big retangular box in front.....13 years of running, as of today, still working fine like new.....
Pro drivers will have their team kit/chassis that money cannot buy, their engine that no more then 10 ppl can have, their ESC that god knows what is actually inside, the fuel that is as expensive as the real fuel....and pro match batteries only the suppier knows the actual vottage of the cells.............but RADIO EQUIPMENT they use, what are the different then the 1 everyone use...? They might use it several months eariler, or with special colored screws and special drop down steering.........but afterall, still the same radio like everyone use, it won't transfer any FASTER or STRONGER then others, their servo won't run a MOD motor instead of the orignal motor, it won't be made in Titanium...but the best part is, we can get the exact the same radio as those PRO driver use, with the same price and with the same quality as theirs.
My point is....spend the money now, and no need to worry later on.....my 9303 9404 servos.....6 plus years old, still run like brand new on my 200mm and 235mm...........and they are NOT really the top of the line products, just a good brand name products.
M8 is probably the best before the 3PK, but I like FUTABA more...
You can also think the latest KO Helio? It look like a space ship controller more then a RC controller.......but HARA use that, it won't be wrong.
My theory is........in the RC industry, your RADIO EQUIPPMENT is probably the BEST ITEM for everyone to invest.......and will last a LONG TIME too....
Before my 3PK, it was my Futaba BOX (forgot the model #) it is a pistol style with a big retangular box in front.....13 years of running, as of today, still working fine like new.....
Pro drivers will have their team kit/chassis that money cannot buy, their engine that no more then 10 ppl can have, their ESC that god knows what is actually inside, the fuel that is as expensive as the real fuel....and pro match batteries only the suppier knows the actual vottage of the cells.............but RADIO EQUIPMENT they use, what are the different then the 1 everyone use...? They might use it several months eariler, or with special colored screws and special drop down steering.........but afterall, still the same radio like everyone use, it won't transfer any FASTER or STRONGER then others, their servo won't run a MOD motor instead of the orignal motor, it won't be made in Titanium...but the best part is, we can get the exact the same radio as those PRO driver use, with the same price and with the same quality as theirs.
My point is....spend the money now, and no need to worry later on.....my 9303 9404 servos.....6 plus years old, still run like brand new on my 200mm and 235mm...........and they are NOT really the top of the line products, just a good brand name products.
Last edited by Rookie Solara; 03-11-2004 at 11:28 AM.
#1917
Tech Apprentice
Originally posted by Chewdogg
I use hitec and everyone dogs them but they seem to work for me.
as for the XS3:
Brand new out the box the receiver didn't work (shop replaced it)
Second receiver the steering channel didn't work (shop replaced it)
Now after 7 months the steering on the transmitter does not work
Also while I was at the local track another guys xs3 reciever went out
I use hitec and everyone dogs them but they seem to work for me.
as for the XS3:
Brand new out the box the receiver didn't work (shop replaced it)
Second receiver the steering channel didn't work (shop replaced it)
Now after 7 months the steering on the transmitter does not work
Also while I was at the local track another guys xs3 reciever went out
#1918
I was hoping HPI USA would have the 2004 edition before spring got here. Lets hope!
#1920
i have almost finished building my new r40 but have a couple questions
how much droop should i use?
i couldnt figure a way to get all my wires through the battery box so i removed the top and double sided taped the pack to the tray and put it in with screws and nuts but the front of the tray isnt secured
are your cars similiar or is there a better way?
also my personal transponder wire wasnt long enough to use the transponder mount so i double sided taped the transponder on the radio tray above the servo
anyone got some pictures?
how much droop should i use?
i couldnt figure a way to get all my wires through the battery box so i removed the top and double sided taped the pack to the tray and put it in with screws and nuts but the front of the tray isnt secured
are your cars similiar or is there a better way?
also my personal transponder wire wasnt long enough to use the transponder mount so i double sided taped the transponder on the radio tray above the servo
anyone got some pictures?