MugenDrew

iTrader: (36)

Buy the kit from ACER. When and if you need spares( which you will) get them from avidbearings.

shokyo

iTrader: (8)

keep it up frens...lots of thing i had learn from here...

Francis M.

iTrader: (2)

Congratulations to Mike Swauger taking the win at brazil....


http://www.redrc.net/2008/11/swauger...lo-champs-rd6/

slow_rock

what the different?..

MugenDrew

iTrader: (36)

They weigh less. This benefit is two fold because the bearings are rotating weight and the bearings in your up-rite's are unsprung weight.
They offer less rolling resistance which frees up power. The power that was being consumed to over come the weight and resistance of steel is now being used to push the car.

lil-bump

iTrader: (89)

Speaking of unsprung weight. Has anyone ever had the plastic wheel hexs go bad. I'm thinking of switching back to the plastic hexes. I believe it saves almost 8 grams of unsprung weight.

Any comments????

Pass you soon...

asw7576

I think alluminium wheel hex will stand side way impact much2 better than plastic wheelhex. With plastic wheel hex, the pin might collapsed on side way impact, making the wheelhex rubbing the bearing, thus wobbling. Don't forget, the bearing might be hot during racing period and cause wheel hex wobbling.

I guess alluminium wheel hex is still the best optional equipment for racing competition.

lil-bump

iTrader: (89)

Thanks for your comments


Pass you soon...

MugenDrew

iTrader: (36)

If you have access to a drill press you can drill them on axis at tho six points. Remember the clamping screw is only there to hold it on when the wheels off.
The biggest problem I have seen with the plastic hexes, you cant hammer the wheel nuts on...

lil-bump

iTrader: (89)

I take it you mean drilling the hexes on the flats? Size drill bit???

MugenDrew

iTrader: (36)

If the hex was laying on a surface with the face that contacts the wheel, if you took a wheel off and looked directly at it, if you were looking at a six sided stop sign. This would be flat on the table of the drill press. The backside with the step in it to make sure the hex only contacts the inner race of the bearing would be facing the ceiling.
The size of the drill bit I don't remember. The last set I made are on my pit guys car and he is 130 miles away. What I did to determine the size of the drill bit was to measure from the I.D.(the hole for the axle) to the tip of the drive face of the hex. Subtracted two millimeter from this to obtain the drill bit side.
I only drilled the two points 90 degs. to the screw this size. The other four points sizes varied after replacing the steel screw with a ti one to maintain balance. I use a magnetic prop balancer for balancing.
What you just said I did not even think about. The drive flats could also be drilled to further reduce weight with out sacrificing support to the drive area of the wheel hub. !BITCHIN!...YBSlow fire up that CNC
Big Ol KICKA@$ to lil Bump, thanks

BiggDogg33

iTrader: (4)

Thanks alot!!!

Ron C.

iTrader: (2)

You're welcome.

Seisick

3 years using plastic hexes, just make sure to rotate them
and use a shim between it and the bearing, no problems whatsoever
except with certain foam brands where the fit is too tight and
when you release the tire, it will draw the plastic hexe

cheers

gentleman81

iTrader: (2)

i hit too much stuff, and they always used to end up crammed into my rims. so i went metal, alum, and im good.

drilling them, man, that would be a good amount of work?