Originally Posted by TomB

this is because you have become so acustomed to a forgiving setup that you now don't know how to set the car up to a normal setting. Running this sort of grease you describe above is a big no no as it limits your diff setup options to just one grease.

if you go to 10kwt of course you will need to adjust the front and rear accordingly. You can't tell us though that the car is only drivable with tamiya grease in the diff though that's ridiculous.

just set the car up with 5000wt if you need a very free diff. there cannot be a track anywhere in the world unless it's in iceland, that requires such a loose rear diff

Originally Posted by asw7576

Honestly, I filled my gear diff with hefty amount of Tamiya Ceramic Grease

I haven't open it since 2004. It doesn't leak u know.

It feels very light for the diff action.

I have other gear diffs filled with 30K and 10K, but interestingly I feel more comfortable driving the car with gear diff filled with Tamiya Ceramic grease. My friend suggested me to go back with 30K gear diff setup...... I can hardly push my lap times regardless what oil inside. So, I keep using the tamiya for the time being. Less maintenance

Originally Posted by va_connoisseur

For the new guys, is this grease creating a locked-diff effect? That less maintenance is a plus. Are you more aggressive driver or smooth, flowing type? I figure driving is like weight lifting, you sometime reach a plateau where you have to shock the system to keep growing.

Originally Posted by itchy b

Looks like you go for the Micro Recievers there Wally!!

I like to use the cover as it helps keep the dirt out better.
Besides the weight saving without one is minimal and may also unballance the car

Originally Posted by blanks596

could someone please correctly provide me with the the clutch shoes from softest to hardest - I've seen and heard so many different answers-I've seen Rmd's list, but I just want confirmation- black-grey-yellow-red(is this correct from soft to hard)-

also, what is the purpose for running a harder shoe other than less wear?

thanx in advance

Originally Posted by daveb

Can anyone direct me to a good set up online. I'm looking for a setup for a track size of 50x130, mid-low traction and somewhat a tight layout. The track temp. at mid-day was 120 degrees. I'm pretty much looking for a tire setup more then anything else. I'd like to buy some tires but I want to buy some that will most likely work. I hate to buy a bunch of tire with compounds that won't work. Thanks, Dave

Originally Posted by Roger

If your looking into tires, try 35's or 37's for med-low traction. You can also change the shock oil and springs if you have time. I would go 400 wght ( or 35 wght ) and try purple springs all the way around. If you need more steering, you can also try changing the front piston to a one hole 1.3mm piston using 400 oil and pruple springs. Hope this helps.

Originally Posted by daveb

Roger-
As always thanks for the help. Should I run 35's or 37's all the way around? Where's the best place for set ups regarding the MTX-4?

Originally Posted by Roger

Sups Dave. No prob. Run 35's or 37's all the way around. For set-ups, I found that Fukada's low traction set-up is a good foundation for a low traction track. I used this set-up with a few minor changes to accomodate my driving. Here's the link for his set-up:

http://www.mugenseiki.com/menueefi.htm

Goto setting sheet and locate Fukada's SPL2 set-up.

Here's the link of the track that he used this set-up for:

http://www.flag-1.com/image/4-1.jpg

Originally Posted by wallyedmonds

this is how i do my rx if any care
never had a problem (yet)