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Old 07-27-2007, 11:54 AM   #316
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this is because you have become so acustomed to a forgiving setup that you now don't know how to set the car up to a normal setting. Running this sort of grease you describe above is a big no no as it limits your diff setup options to just one grease.

if you go to 10kwt of course you will need to adjust the front and rear accordingly. You can't tell us though that the car is only drivable with tamiya grease in the diff though that's ridiculous.

just set the car up with 5000wt if you need a very free diff. there cannot be a track anywhere in the world unless it's in iceland, that requires such a loose rear diff
Hey, Did I suggest anyone to follow mine ?? ...... I already mentioned about 30K diff oil suggested by my friend versus what I feel comfortable driving it for the time being. Please don't be so super expert coz different people have different setup to match their own driving style for different track. ( Unless you are Mike Swauger then I would believe you 100%. ).
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Old 07-27-2007, 12:04 PM   #317
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Honestly, I filled my gear diff with hefty amount of Tamiya Ceramic Grease

I haven't open it since 2004. It doesn't leak u know.

It feels very light for the diff action.

I have other gear diffs filled with 30K and 10K, but interestingly I feel more comfortable driving the car with gear diff filled with Tamiya Ceramic grease. My friend suggested me to go back with 30K gear diff setup...... I can hardly push my lap times regardless what oil inside. So, I keep using the tamiya for the time being. Less maintenance
For the new guys, is this grease creating a locked-diff effect? That less maintenance is a plus. Are you more aggressive driver or smooth, flowing type? I figure driving is like weight lifting, you sometime reach a plateau where you have to shock the system to keep growing.
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Old 07-27-2007, 01:07 PM   #318
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For the new guys, is this grease creating a locked-diff effect? That less maintenance is a plus. Are you more aggressive driver or smooth, flowing type? I figure driving is like weight lifting, you sometime reach a plateau where you have to shock the system to keep growing.
No, this is a grease..... so no locking effect at all.

I don't recommend to follow mine because mugen setup sheet said different things........ always follow the basic setup as starting point.

I'm smooth and relax driver. I race for fun & enjoyment ( not dead serious racer ) ...... so I let faster car to overpass me easy. Unless there are bets involve or my friends giving me moral supports.... then I will race more seriously. I find out.... if I drive too aggresively, I will get caught in accident. So I rather keep it cool and stay away from accidents.
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Old 07-27-2007, 07:12 PM   #319
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hey what ever works for you and your having fun.
i know a guy that puts serpent cleaning gum in his front diff
but he likes it.
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Old 07-27-2007, 07:15 PM   #320
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Looks like you go for the Micro Recievers there Wally!!

I like to use the cover as it helps keep the dirt out better.
Besides the weight saving without one is minimal and may also unballance the car
my micro rx is in my 1/12 and the weight of the cover is nothing.
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Old 07-30-2007, 06:45 AM   #321
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could someone please correctly provide me with the the clutch shoes from softest to hardest - I've seen and heard so many different answers-I've seen Rmd's list, but I just want confirmation- black-grey-yellow-red(is this correct from soft to hard)-

also, what is the purpose for running a harder shoe other than less wear?

thanx in advance
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Old 07-30-2007, 07:09 AM   #322
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Can anyone direct me to a good set up online. I'm looking for a setup for a track size of 50x130, mid-low traction and somewhat a tight layout. The track temp. at mid-day was 120 degrees. I'm pretty much looking for a tire setup more then anything else. I'd like to buy some tires but I want to buy some that will most likely work. I hate to buy a bunch of tire with compounds that won't work. Thanks, Dave
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Old 07-30-2007, 07:18 AM   #323
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Originally Posted by blanks596 View Post
could someone please correctly provide me with the the clutch shoes from softest to hardest - I've seen and heard so many different answers-I've seen Rmd's list, but I just want confirmation- black-grey-yellow-red(is this correct from soft to hard)-

also, what is the purpose for running a harder shoe other than less wear?

thanx in advance
I think it is.. black-grey-yello-red bot from hard to soft... black being hardest and red being softest. The purpose of running a softer shoe is that the grip when the clutch engages is more aggressive than that of when the shoe is harder... Think it like tires... The softer the tire, the more grip it generates the more wear it has... Someone correct me if Im wrong...
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Old 07-30-2007, 08:08 AM   #324
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daveb,

I run at a track similar to what you describe. I primarily run 40's all around but i have had to switch to 37's. Those are pretty much the only tires I buy and they work pretty good everywhere I go. I do have a set of 42's just incase there is super traction as that was the case at the Byron Fuel race.
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Old 07-30-2007, 08:13 AM   #325
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Originally Posted by daveb View Post
Can anyone direct me to a good set up online. I'm looking for a setup for a track size of 50x130, mid-low traction and somewhat a tight layout. The track temp. at mid-day was 120 degrees. I'm pretty much looking for a tire setup more then anything else. I'd like to buy some tires but I want to buy some that will most likely work. I hate to buy a bunch of tire with compounds that won't work. Thanks, Dave
Just go soft on the tires maybe 35's.
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Old 07-30-2007, 01:12 PM   #326
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If your looking into tires, try 35's or 37's for med-low traction. You can also change the shock oil and springs if you have time. I would go 400 wght ( or 35 wght ) and try purple springs all the way around. If you need more steering, you can also try changing the front piston to a one hole 1.3mm piston using 400 oil and pruple springs. Hope this helps.
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Old 07-30-2007, 09:26 PM   #327
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If your looking into tires, try 35's or 37's for med-low traction. You can also change the shock oil and springs if you have time. I would go 400 wght ( or 35 wght ) and try purple springs all the way around. If you need more steering, you can also try changing the front piston to a one hole 1.3mm piston using 400 oil and pruple springs. Hope this helps.
Roger-
As always thanks for the help. Should I run 35's or 37's all the way around? Where's the best place for set ups regarding the MTX-4?
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Old 07-30-2007, 10:25 PM   #328
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Roger-
As always thanks for the help. Should I run 35's or 37's all the way around? Where's the best place for set ups regarding the MTX-4?
Sups Dave. No prob. Run 35's or 37's all the way around. For set-ups, I found that Fukada's low traction set-up is a good foundation for a low traction track. I used this set-up with a few minor changes to accomodate my driving. Here's the link for his set-up:

http://www.mugenseiki.com/menueefi.htm

Goto setting sheet and locate Fukada's SPL2 set-up.

Here's the link of the track that he used this set-up for:

http://www.flag-1.com/image/4-1.jpg
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Old 07-31-2007, 03:00 PM   #329
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Originally Posted by Roger View Post
Sups Dave. No prob. Run 35's or 37's all the way around. For set-ups, I found that Fukada's low traction set-up is a good foundation for a low traction track. I used this set-up with a few minor changes to accomodate my driving. Here's the link for his set-up:

http://www.mugenseiki.com/menueefi.htm

Goto setting sheet and locate Fukada's SPL2 set-up.

Here's the link of the track that he used this set-up for:

http://www.flag-1.com/image/4-1.jpg
Running tires at that shore, how is your clutch set-up? Also what type of gearing are you using?
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Old 07-31-2007, 03:11 PM   #330
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Originally Posted by wallyedmonds View Post
this is how i do my rx if any care
never had a problem (yet)
if u get hit from that side hard in a race or just bashing, your most likley going to loose the connection to your transponder and anything can happen at that point
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