Mugen MTX-4R
#1486
#1488
hmm
the R uprights are 2deg the stock are 0deg hope im right also the lower front arms have a chingadera on them so the uprights dont hit the arms as you turn in short you get 164 you need lower arm updated version
#1490
#1491
#1492
#1493
#1495
Chassis
I am thinking of changing my 3mm chassis to 4mm, what improvements I will see by using the 4mm?
thanks
Joe
thanks
Joe
#1498
I kind of regret for having 4mm chassis in my spare parts.
( IMO 3mm chassis is still the best ).
( IMO 3mm chassis is still the best ).
#1499
Tech Champion
iTrader: (34)
4mm is stiffer which means it will perform better on high grip tracks. The car wont necessarily be looser as suggested - this is dependent on the rest of your setup - but as a general rule you can expect less rear grip because this is where most of the flex is in the mtx4 with the 3mm. If you are looking for a performance boost then the 4mm chassis probably wont make a huge difference, but most people use it to combat the mtx4s supposed gear stripping issues
As I've said 3 or 4 times before in this thread, I believe the best way to combat 2nd gear stripping is by using the kawahara CF mid brace and 1pc engine mount, & also by meshing 2nd gear independently from first and ensuring your pinions are in good condition. I never really had a problem with stripping gears e.g. it happened occasionally after big shunts or while gasing the car over a ripple strip with the 3mm, & since moving to the 4mm it still happens occasionally
As I've said 3 or 4 times before in this thread, I believe the best way to combat 2nd gear stripping is by using the kawahara CF mid brace and 1pc engine mount, & also by meshing 2nd gear independently from first and ensuring your pinions are in good condition. I never really had a problem with stripping gears e.g. it happened occasionally after big shunts or while gasing the car over a ripple strip with the 3mm, & since moving to the 4mm it still happens occasionally